ball mill threaded caps

cheap and simple ball mill : 10 steps - instructables

Last year for the Fourth of July, I wanted to make some black powder to celebrate American freedom with a bang. However, one step in the manufacture of black powder is running it in a ball mill to grind it into a fine powder. I was not in possession of a ball mill, and Independence Day was quickly approaching, so I decided to make my own.

First, cut your PVC pipe to your desired length with the hacksaw. I cut mine to 6 inches. Then cut the threaded rod with the hacksaw based on the length of your pipe. It will need to be about 3 inches longer than the pipe, leaving room for the adapter, screw cap, and wing nut on one end, and the cap, nut, and half of the coupling nut on the other end.

Wrap the small rag around the threaded rod, and clamp the locking pliers around it. This serves to hold the rod still while you work the locking nuts onto the rod with a wrench. The rag is simply to protect the threads from getting disfigured by the pliers. You'll probably have to play around with how thick the rag is and how tight the pliers are to keep the threaded rod from rotating inside. Start one of the nylon locking nuts onto the end of the rod, and use the wrench to work it down the length of the rod. You'll want to go down just far enough so that you can fit the screw cap over it and have just enough room for the wing nut to tighten over the cap. Start another nylon locking nut on the opposite end of the rod. This nut will need to go down a bit farther, so that the flat cap will fit over it, and so that there's enough rod left to thread a second locking nut and half of the coupling nut.

The shank end of the mill will have the shank used to rotate the mill.Note:I changed my design after the initial build and I neglected to retake the pictures. The images are slightly inaccurate and show the screw cap instead of the flat cap on the shank end of the mill, but just pretend it's the flat cap. Feed the long end of the threaded rod through the hole in the flat cap. Using the same technique as in the previous step, thread a second nylon locking nut over the cap and tighten it down to hold it in place. Then thread half of the coupling nut onto the remaining portion of the rod.

Now you'll need to make the shank that allows a drill or something with a chuck to hold the mill and rotate it. First, install the hex bolt into the coupling nut with a wrench until it's very tight. All the threads should be inside the coupling nut, with just the bare rod of the bolt exposed. Then clamp down the mill and use the hacksaw to cut off the hex head of the bolt, leaving behind the smooth rod of the bolt. Congratulations, you made a shank! (But not the kind you kill people with in prison.)

Note:If you decide to use PVC cement, now is the time to get that out. Slide your PVC pipe into the cap on the shank end. If you choose to use cement, apply it here. Then slide the male screw adapter onto the other end of the pipe. (This is your second chance to use the cement and smell those fumes.)

For lack of a better term, I'm calling this end the mouth. It's the end you open to put in and empty out your powder (or whatever you choose to mill). Screw the female screw cap onto the male screw adapter until it butts up against the locking nut on the rod. Then thread the wing nut onto the remaining length of rod and tighten it down to hold the screw cap in place.

Now you get to put your new ball mill to use. Try to find some lead balls, since they are heavy and won't spark. I was unable to get lead balls at the time and tried using plastic BBs, but those are much too light to do any work. I was able to have some success using glass beads though (marbles would work too). First, remove the wing nut on the mouth end, then unscrew the cap.Load up the mill with some balls and fill it with your material to be milled.Note:Don't fill up the mill all the way, or it won't have any room to do it's job! Use plenty of balls and leave plenty of room for tumblin'. Screw the cap back on and reinstall the wing nut, fit it to your motor of choice, and let it grind!

I like it, nice and simple. I have considered making my own black powder for use in my cannons. For the most part I have talked my self out of it. Everything I have read has indicated consistency problems with home made powder. But at $16 a lb plus hazmat fees it can get expensive in a hurry when you start using 1/4 lb or more per shot.

fc bond ball test mill | sepor, inc

The FC Bond Mill was designed by F. C. Bond for use in determining the Bond Ball Mill Index, a measure of grindability and power required to mill various ores. FC Bond Mills are used in laboratories throughout the world. A copy of Fred C. Bonds Method of Crushing and Grinding for determination of the Bond Index is included with each mill.

This Ball Mill can be used continuously or it can be used for any number of revolutions, according to the type of grind desired. The FC Bond ball Mill comes with table stand, motor, clutch, revolution counter, motor starter* and controls, 12 diameter machined steel drum, 44-1/2 pounds of steel balls, receiving pan and hand screen pan.

Shafts after weld .00005 on diameter (total 1.4370 to 1.4375 dia.) tight slip fit bearing. Key way shaft .002 on diameter/width and .004 centerline. * Shafts threaded and screwed into end caps prior to weld and machined to size after weld.

Sepor, Inc. began business in 1953 with the introduction of the Sepor Microsplitter , a Jones-type Riffle splitter, developed by geologist Oreste Ernie Alessio for his own use in the lab. Sepor grew over the next several decades to offer a complete line of mineral analysis tools, as well as pilot plant equipment for scaled operations.

ball mill gardenballistics

This project will show you how I built a ball mill for the process of making finely ground powders. Predominantly for the production of black powder and other pyrotechnic compounds. I have shown how I build the ball mill and how I made my own lead ball grinding media.

Ball mills are machines which are used to reduce the granular size of powdered chemicals and to efficiently mix multiple chemicals together. This is an important requirement for good pyrotechnic compounds, the finer the grain of a pyrotechnic compound and how well it has been mixed with other constituents determines how efficiently the compound will combust.

Ball milling pyrotechnic compositions is a very hazardous procedure. Care and the correct materials and procedures must be followed when running the mill. You should never mill any shock sensitive compounds such as flash powder. The grinding media within a ball mill must be non-sparking, common grinding media used are lead balls or ceramic media. Chrome steel or glass grinding media should never be used. Milling should always be performed outside away from buildings and the public in case of accidental ignition of the compound being ground.

Two 32cm x 19cm x 1.2cm ply wood boards. 110mm , 250mm long PVC pipe. 110mm , PVC pipe end caps. Four 10mm , 130mm long threaded bars. Nuts, bolts and small wood screws. High torque electric motor. Four caster wheels. Two PVC pipe brackets (diameter similar to motor). 25mm , 30mm long aluminium bar (to be lathed for motor belt wheel). Clay. Computer mouse ball or similar diameter ball. Lead (flashing, tubing or scrap). Butane gas torch. Stainless steel ladle.

The first thing I did was to construct the tumbler barrel. This allowed me to deign the rest of the mill around the size of this barrel. I used a 250mm long length of 110mm PVC pipe as the main part of the barrel. the end caps I made myself with a vacuum forming machine at my school because of the expensive price of commercial end caps.

The next part was to build a platform on which the barrel could roll. For this I used four castor wheels bolted upside down on a sheet of plywood. The gap between the wheels must be about the right distance apart so that the barrel can roll freely without the possibility of rolling off the casters. A large slot was also cut out of the centre of the platform (see picture) which would allow a motor belt to pass through it and around the barrel.

The next part was to mount the motor to the underside of the same board of plywood. The motor shaft has to be placed in the centre of the plywood platform to allow a rubber belt to pass through it. To mount the motor to the plywood platform, I used PVC pipe brackets which fitted the motor almost perfectly. I used some rubber inner tube wrapped around the motor where the brackets would be clamped to add grip and to stop the motor spinning in the brackets when in use. I screwed the brackets down using small brass wood screws and a couple of washers. The mounting turned out to be surprisingly sturdy and ridged.

The motor shaft had to have a wheel/pulley attached to hold the rubber motor belt. I used a short length of aluminium bar for this. I drilled a hold straight through the centre of the bar with the same diameter of the motor shaft. The pulley needed a grub screw to grip and hold the pulley in place on the motor shaft. This was done by drilling a hole perpendicular to the shaft hole on the pulley and then threading and counter sinking the hole. A short section of thin inner tube was stretched over the pulley to add grip.

Now that the platform and motor mount have been finished, a base is needed. This was simply another piece of plywood of the same dimensions of the platform used before. Four holes in the corners of both plywood boards were drilled. Then four threaded bars of appropriate length were bolted to the base board (as shown in photo) the top platform could then be bolted to the threaded bars as well.

The next thing to do before the ball mill was completed was to make a motor belt. I used a length of bike inner tube. The belt needs to be under a fair amount of tension when in operation to take this into consideration when performing the next step. Determine the length needed to pass around the barrel and motor pulley by simply wrapping it round by hand and marking it, making sure there is tension in the inner tube band. Now using rubber solution found in nearly all puncture repair kits, adhere one end of the tube into the other following the instructions for using the rubber solution carefully.

Due to the high costs of pre-made lead balls for grinding media, I decided to make my own lead balls by casting them. A ball mill should be filled approximately a third to half full with grinding media, and that is equivalent to about 50 to 80 lead balls for my mill. The first thing I did was to mould some wet clay into two rectangular blocks. I then needed a ball pattern which I used a computer mouse ball one of those old track ball mice. I pressed it into the centre of the clay blocks and formed the clay tightly around the ball. I inserted it slightly deeper than half way and then removed the ball. The reason for making the depressions deeper than half way is that to make clean flat surfaces I would later sand the faces flat which would require some extra depth to ensure the final void was spherical. I used a thin wooden dowel to make depressions for an inlet channel and air an escape channel, making sure each block was a mirror image of the other.

I then baked the clay in an oven at a low starting temperature of about 80C for about an hour to slowly evaporate the water out of the clay. This avoids cracking the clay due to heating it too quickly. After being dried I turned up the oven to full power at about 220C for about 2 hours (this isnt actually hot enough to properly cure the clay into pottery but it does set it hard enough for use as a casting mould).

After the moulds had cooled, I sanded the faces of each block flat and also sanding back until the depression became as close to hemispherical as I could. I glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat sheet of MDF board to provide a flat sanding surface. The ball used as the pattern was placed in the depressions to align the two mould halves and the outside edges of the moulds were scribed to enable me to realign them without the ball pattern.

To cast a lead ball I set up the two mould halves and gently clamp them together using a clamp and some packing board. I placed a few scraps of lead in a cooking ladle and using a butane torch melted the lead in the ladle until it was completely molten (this is clear when the molten lead rolls around freely with high surface tension and does not wet the ladle surface). The molten lead was carefully poured into the mould through the inlet channel until the mould was filled. The air outlet channel should allow the air/gases in the mould to escape easily to avoid bubbles/void defects in the ball casting.After waiting a few minuets for the lead to solidify the mould was parted gently to reveal the casted lead ball. The excess lead from the inlet and vent ports can be easily cut off and filed smooth.

oil hole cups and covers | gits manufacturing | page 2

Style L oilers are used extensively on motors and small machinery requiring side oiling and extremely low cost. Zinc plated, 1-piece die-casting, has flat wrench hold on most Style L screw-type oilers. Also available in drive-in models.

When machine design dictates neither a vertical norhorizontal fitting, Style T Angle oil cups are recommended for 45 installation. Cups are drawn from cold rolled strip and the brazed-in shank, cut from solid hexagon bar stock. Capacity in oz A. Stock Thread B. Thread Length C. Stem Length D. Body Height E. Assembly Clearance Item []

Style HB oilers combine unusual strength and extra rigid construction with durability and low cost. Machined from solid hexagon bar stock, providinga sure wrench hold. Ruggedly built to withstand abuse.

Style CP cups are made at modest cost from standard wrought iron pipe couplings. These extremely sturdy oilers are used as filler caps for large reservoirs and heavy journals requiring generous oil capacity.

Oiler bodies are fine-quality, drawn construction. Craftsmanship and care assure dependable service and long life. The shank gives a non-slip wrench hold. Body and shank are securely brazed to form a leak-proof joint.

For a slow but continuous oil feed, use Style W Wick Cups (construction identical to Style Y). Wire core cotton wicking feeds by capillary action. Positively filters dirt or other foreign matter. When the oiler is filled above the top of the standpipe, surplus oil serves to flush bearing. Saturation of the wicking keeps bearing []

Style WC oil cups are made by adding a standpipe and wicking to Style C oilers (See Gravity Feed Oil Cups). Especially recommended for above-the bearing applications, GITS Wick Feed oil cups have extremely sturdy construction and long life at low cost.

A dust-proof oil hole cover of the Revolving Sleeve type, frequently selected for locations where space is limited. Threaded and slotted for screw driver insertion in a tapped hole. Convenient, knurled finger-hold. For either horizontal or vertical use.

Where a low setting, screw type oiler is desired, employ GITS Style S oiler for protection and convenience. The ball valve is held in its closed position by a sturdy, easily compressed music wire spring. These oilers are machined from solid bar stock. Hexagon wrench holds assure easy installation.

Where flush type oilers are desired, the Style GB with ball valve opening provides durable, easily assembled protection requiring minimum top clearance. The easily depressed ball valve (music wire spring) instantly closes when pressure is released. No. 520, 521 and 522 are constructed with steel balls (Cross Section No. 1). All others feature bubble closures []

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stock plastic tubes | cab & petg | petro packaging inc

Petro Packaging Co. Inc. stocks clear extruded tubing in CAB and PETG materials. Stock plastic tubes are available in a variety of nominal sizes from outside diameter to 4 outside diameter in thin, medium and heavy wall thicknesses. Customers having a need for small or prototype quantities can rely on our extensive inventory to satisfy their requirements by selecting one of Petros stock plastic tubes. Tubes are available in lengths and box quantities as designated in the appropriate charts.

ball studs and clips products - peninsula components, inc

One of the earliest products PENCOM manufactured, ball studs, are still an important product line. PENCOMs ball studs have an undercut behind the thread ensuring that the part will seat flush in any female mating thread. This feature has made PENCOMs parts favored over other standard ball studs. Offered in both steel and stainless steel, distributors and design engineers use PENCOM as their source.