bowl grinding answer

bowl gouge sharpening techniques step by step - turn a wood bowl

When we went to visit him, I threw a couple of my gouges in the car to bring along. Long story short, we got one small bowl made before the gouges were too dull to continue. Without a sharpening system, we could go no further.

Being fortunate enough to do my initial wood turnings at weekly group gatherings, I started without any equipment. As I learned the importance of a sharp bowl gouge, my equipment acquisition order was easy to determine.

When we employ the bowl gouge sharpening techniques, we are smoothing and leveling the surface of the bevel. At the same time, this action restores a sharp, crisp edge between the bevel top and the bowl gouge flute.

What if instead of working a nice compact round of timber, the bowl gouge was drug across a long continuous surface? Imagine, sitting on the tailgate of a truck going down the highway and holding the bowl gouge tip against the road.

Depending on the size of the bowl blank and the time spent cutting, your bowl gouge actually accumulates MILES of cutting time. Too bad theres not a frequent flyer program for bowl gouge miles turned.

If youre good at math, you can pretty quickly run some numbers. The circumference of an 8 bowl blank is 25.12. If the lathe is turning around 800 r.p.m., the bowl gouge will travel a full MILE about every three minutes.

When the gouge dulls, performance also reduces, friction will increase. One sign of a dulling bowl gouge tip is heat. If the tip or end of the tool feels warm or hot, its time to practice your bowl gouge sharpening techniques.

The quickest way to tell is if the bowl gouge produces chips or dust instead of longer shavings. Keep in mind some woods dont make nice curly shavings, but in general dust and chips are a good indicator of the need to sharpen.

And the third best way to know its time to sharpen your bowl gouge is your memory. Can you remember when you sharpened last? If you cant remember when you last sharpened, it is now probably time to sharpen or past time to sharpen.

Always remember this wood turners joke, or perhaps a truth. If you think your gouge needs sharpening, you should have done it ten minutes ago. In other words, keep on top of your bowl gouge and sharpen frequently.

When we go to the grinding station to sharpen this is not the time to reshape or change the angle of the bowl gouge. So, for now the cutting angle of the bowl gouge will be the same as it currently appears.

I sharpen my bowl gouges with long swept back wing profiles. The swept back angle gives me more cutting surface to remove more material quickly. I can also flip the tool over and use those wings for shear scraping cuts to smooth a bowl surface.

Swept back wing is my preference. Your bowl gouge may have a completely different grind, and profile and that is fine. We are here to understand bowl gouge sharpening techniques, regardless of angle or profile.

To achieve consistency, I strongly suggest using a sharpening jig. I use the Oneway Sharpening System with the Wolverine VariGrind jig to maintain consistent sharpening angles at the wheel every time. See my Recommended Sharpening Equipment guide for further details.

Because only a small amount of bowl gouge metal needs to be removed to restore a sharp edge, I dont want to risk slipping and necessitating additional grinding. The more you grind, the sooner the bowl gouge is reduced to a stub.

8) If the colored area appears to have an even stripe ground through from the top to the bottom of the bevel, all is ready to continue to step 10. If, the strip is only partially across the bevel continue to step 9.

9) If the top edge of the bevel is ground but not the bottom, loosen the extension arm and move it inward a very small amount, just a hair. Lock the extension arm and make another slight contact with the wheel, go to step 8. If the bottom edge of the bevel is ground but not the top, loosen the extension arm and move it outward a very small amount, just a touch. Lock the extension arm and make another slight contact with the wheel, go to step 8.

10) Using smooth fluid movements, roll the bowl gouge bevel across the surface of the sharpening wheel from left to right. Try to keep the sharpening area of bowl gouge in the center of the sharpening wheel on the grinder. Also, attempt to give all areas of the bevel the same amount of time against the sharpening surface.

11) After only a few seconds of moving the bowl gouge bevel across the sharpening wheel, remove the gouge and closely inspect the bevel and cutting edge. If a smooth, shiny bevel appears from heel to cutting edge all the way around, you have a shape edge. If you see any rough spots or interruptions in the bevel smoothness return to step 10 and repeat until the bevel is smooth in all locations.

The most critical aspect of bowl gouge sharpening techniques is to be consistent and precise. Our bowl gouge is a highly effective tool vital to the whole bowl turning process. We need to treat the bowl gouge accordingly.

Think about this for a second. If your sharpening angle changes a quarter of one degree, barely noticeable, each time you sharpen it will add up. Do that four times, and your bevel cutting angle will change a full degree. Do that forty times and, now your bevel angle is TEN FULL DEGREES different from where it started.

Sharpening is not grinding; we are here only to sharpen. Using the bowl gouge sharpening techniques, each time at the grinder you should just be removing a thin amount of material from the bevel of your gouge.

If you find yourself needing to spend a long time sharpening and making the bowl gouge bevel smooth again, you may need to sharpen more frequently. Stop more often and sharpen less is better than waiting and needing to sharpen a very worn gouge.

Ideally, each approach to the grinder should take a couple passes across the bowl gouge bevel surface and only require a few seconds of time. As soon as the bevel is shiny, flat and even, the gouge is sharp.

Colored metal indicates that the gouge shank is overheating and that causes stress within the gouge. Colored areas need to be removed and this requires slow patient grinding, not necessarily sharpening.

If you feel the heat, preferably before you see any brown or blue start to appear at the sharpening tip of your gouge, stop sharpening. Let the gouge cool a bit. Go sweep shavings or take a break because your gouge too needs a break.

Previously among other turners, I was told, Yes you can quench high-speed steel (and cryogenic steel) in water while sharpening. Only later to be told quite emphatically by others, NO! Do not quench gouges while sharpening. You will weaken the metal.

Heres how it works. You can quench and cool the metal as you sharpen if the metal does not get excessively overheated and/or discolor. It is safe structurally for the metal temperature to be reduced with water if the temperature is within reason. Quenching needs to happen frequently and which keeps the metal temperature within a narrow range that doesnt get overly hot.

On the other hand, cooling a bowl gouge that is overheating and discolored will result in too great and dramatic of a temperature shift which can damage the internal structure of the steel. Dramatic heat shifts in the steel can cause the tip of the bowl gouge to chip, shatter, or break potentially.

The best way to avoid all this is to sharpen nice and slow and easy. Make quick light sharpening passes on the grinding wheel letting the wheel do the work, never press hard into the grinding wheel. Then there is no reason to stress about the metal stress in your bowl gouge.

At first, bowl gouge sharpening techniques may seem daunting and headache inducing. After a few times at the grinding wheel, the entire process eases and the bowl gouge sharpening techniques become old habit.


Kent, first you inspired me to get and use a bowl gouge (instead of using my spindle gouges) for bowl turning. I thank you for that its a lot easier and more fun, not to mention safer. Of course, that gouge (a really good one, BTW, a cryogenic 1/2 flute with a swept back fingernail grind) eventually got dull. Actually, it got dull pretty quickly while working on a hard Maple bowl block. After struggling to keep it sharp without a jig or even a grinder I set the turning project aside.

A few days ago my new slow speed grinder and OneWay Wolverine sharpening set-up. It took me about an hour to assemble everything, build a grinding platform and double-check it. Following your video demonstrations I was able to very quickly tune up the gouge profile and get it sharp. Resuming the project was a pleasure and has gone smoothly since. Any time Ive even suspected the gouge should be re-sharpened Ive done so.

Hi! Im Kent, a dad,husband, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, dark chocolate lover and Im addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see my current bowls available, follow me on Instagram.Ready for your wood bowl adventure?Click here to Get Started

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how to shape new bowl gouge profile tool (adjust, change)

You will need a sharpening station, and also, a sharpening jig (a grinding platform at a minimum) is very helpful to shape a new bowl gouge. You will need to grind your desired wing shape and bevel angle first, then create the shape of the gouge side wings.

With the gouge mounted to the Vari-Grind Jig and the V-arm adjusted to the right distance and locked, slowly grind away one side wing at a time until the top cutting edge merges with and matches the top flute line.


Hi Kent, I just recently started turning. I was unable to keep a consistent angle on my bowl gouge so I have been using carbide tools because I couldnt make it work. I just received the varigrind jig for Christmas and have seen other videos on how to sharpen but they were intimidating. This article was worth the entire price of the course! Thanks so much. I now have a beautiful uniform bevel and am looking forward to how it will cut.

Hi Kent, I have received 2 brand new Roberst Sorby bowl gouges recently. One is 1/2 the other is 3/8. They came with the fingernail profile from the manufacturer. Ive decided to mimic the master and duplicate your 55 deg swept back profile you use and will reshape the 1/2 gouge to that angle and profile using the video and this article as my reference guide. My question is, should I also do the same with the 3/8 gouge or should I go with a different angle and/or profile? I would think that having the same angle will allow me to get used to holding both gouges in the same fashion. Your advice would be appreciated. Frank

Wow, your description is very detailed and you even how we get in trouble grinding the bevel of our bowl gouges. While I am turning, I use a stone to touch up the edge. Is that a good idea, or am I making things worse?

Yes, touching up a tools bevel edge between trips to the sharpening station can work for most tools, especially scrapers. However, the bowl gouge is a bit more touchy. If you can do it great, but its pretty common to make multiple facets on the bowl gouge when touching up by hand. If you notice the tool cuts well, but then stops cutting, you might be moving from one facet to another.

I have a varigrind and now that I have read this article it will help me to get the angle I need. I think I misunderstood the instructions that came with the system. This is a good explanation of the proper setup and the pictures help also.

Hi! Im Kent, a dad,husband, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, dark chocolate lover and Im addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see my current bowls available, follow me on Instagram.Ready for your wood bowl adventure?Click here to Get Started

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wolverine vari-grind jig - illustrated guide bowl gouge sharpening - turn a wood bowl

When I first got my Oneway Wolverine Vari-Grind System, adjusting the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig was confusing. After doing some research, I learned how to make the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig work for a variety of bowl gouge sharpening grinds.

Three variables need to be set to make a specifically angled grind of the bowl gouge using the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig: the amount of bowl gouge extending forward, the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig leg extension angle, and the V-arm distance from the grinding wheel.

The Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig is part of the Oneway Wolverine Vari-Grind Sharpening System which is designed to assist wood bowl turners with the process of consistently sharpening bowl gouge bevel angles quickly and accurately.

Back in the day, no such jig system existed, and woodturners would go to the grinder and sharpen tools by hand. While this is possible, and many turners still sharpen by hand, it is difficult and challenging to maintain a consistent bevel angle.

Oneway makes a whole array of woodturning tools including lathes. They produce the Wolverine Vari-Grind System to help wood turners easily make the same sharpening angle at the grinder time after time without frustration.

Thats a great question, which I first thought would be true as well. Unfortunately, I quickly learned while the shaft of the bowl gouge is round, the interior flute is a compound shape made of a curve with two flat sides.

It is crucial that the Wolverine Vari-Grind System is set up correctly at first. I have an article explicitly dealing with the set-up of the Oneway Wolverine Vari-Grind System, please read this article if you havent already, its essential.

The Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig is an accessory of the overall Oneway Wolverine Vari-Grind Sharpening System. The rest of the system consists of two attachment rails, an adjustable grinding platform, and the V-arm which holds the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig.

The distance the bowl gouge extends from the face of the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig is consistently two inches. This is great because it never changes and we dont have to think much about it. Set it and forget it.

We do need to be aware that if we are extensively grinding the bowl gouge tip, usually when first establishing an angle, we may need to reset the extension length to two inches because tool material removal may shorten the tip.

Again, I have found conflicting opinions about what the V-arm distance from the grinding wheel achieves. It has been my experience that the V-arm distance from the grinding wheel controls the front bevel angle of the bowl gouge sharpening.

Adjusting the leg extension angle on the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig may take a little guessing at first. If the gouge has swept back wings, try setting the angle somewhere around the third mark and tighten the leg extension thumb screw. For shorter wings, try a lower numbered mark.

With the grinder still off, place the end of the leg extension in the pocket at the end of the V-arm. Slide the V-arm until the surface of the bowl gouge sharpening bevel is flush with the grinding wheel.

Take your time and look closely from the side and make sure the bevel is flush to the wheel. Using a backlight here is very helpful to find any gaps. This magnetic mounted LED task light mounts perfectly to the center of the grinder housing.

Turn on the grinder and gently rotate the bowl gouge in the center of the sharpening wheel. If even contact is made around the front and side wings of the gouge, the job of adjusting the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig is complete.

If the angle doesnt match perfectly, merely grind a bit longer until all of the bevel is smooth and newly sharpened along the whole top cutting edge from the wing, across the nose, and up the other side.

Only a clean bevel at the cutting edge is needed. Because this system is so consistent, using these same noted settings with each sharpening will eventually create a fully ground and smooth bevel, if it doesnt appear at first.

Please read my article about which bowl gouge angle is best, and you will get the whole picture. It is incredibly important to understand why and how each bowl gouge bevel angle will affect your wood bowl turning.

Dont let the name, roughing bowl gouge, fool you. This is a traditional bowl gouge and not a standard roughing gouge. I use this bowl gouge configuration to rough out or remove large amounts of material, hence the name.

To get the 55 swept back grind, I set the extension leg of the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig to the third position, and I slide the V-arm up to the grinding wheel until my existing 55 bowl gouge face bevel is flush with the grinding wheel.

The finishing bowl gouge is what you might think, the final tool to make the last cuts of the bowl. I reserve this tool for only the last couple passes which keeps its cutting edge and bevel fresh and ready.

To achieve the 45 finishing bowl gouge angle, I set the extension leg to the second mark and lock down the thumb screw. Slide the V-arm up to make the 45 front bevel flush with the wheel and begin sharpening the bevel edge.

In this position, Im out of the way of the bowl gouge handle as it turns freely in the air. I never use the handle of the tool while sharpening. All control and attention needs to be focused at the bowl gouge tip.

Its important to make sure the gouge is always as close to the center of the sharpening wheel as possible. If the gouge tip or jig slip off the edge of the wheel, the gouge can be pulled down violently and potentially cause damage.

I actually note the bevel angle and Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig setting on the ferrule of the bowl gouge. This way I dont have to guess if my settings are correct when I go to the grinder to sharpen the next time.


Thanks Kent, before getting your download I tried another sharpening technique that I seen on YouTube. the settings were 65o and the 5th notch. Unfortunately I wound up grinding away a lot of the gouge and no matter how I tried I couldnt keep the nose from looking like an ice pick, which I knew wouldnt work. After viewing your suggestions I took your suggestions and produced a swept back gouge that made me happy and works beautifully. Thank you very much. My next project will be the Micro bevel as soon as I can buy the 5/8 gouge.

I have not, but I guess you could use that range possibly for detail spindle gouges, as long as the bevel is up near the top of the wheel. I would never use those settings with a tool that is sharpening near the center (90) point of the wheel. There would be little or no support against a catch and the tool could easily be slammed downward.

I have more of a question than a comment. I do enjoy your teaching ability, you have taught me a lot. In this article you are changing the angle of the nose or cutting surface of your gouge by adjusting the setting of the extension leg. For a 55Deg nose you set the leg at #3 , then for a 45 Deg nose you set the leg at #2 which makes sense to me the leg is closer to the shank of the tool decreasing the angle. But then to get a 65 deg nose you move the leg to #1 position which is closer to the shank than #3 55 Deg or #2 45 Deg position but making an increased angle on the nose? I must be missing something. Please explain this to a novice. Thank you a gain for teaching the world how to turn a bowl and keep your tools sharp.

Great question. The nose bevel angle is controlled by the in and out position of the V-arm. The Vari-grind jig leg angle controls the amount of wings on the bowl gouge. I usually use a #3 or #4 position for my swept-back bowl gouge which makes the wings long and swept back. The micro-bevel, on the other hand, is sharpened on the #1 leg position and has a bevel that wraps around the edge of the flute and does not have swept-back wings. Hopefully that helps a bit.

Hi Ken great review, i have an unrelated question about your lathe. You have the sweet 16 and i am looking to get either the American beauty or the sweet 16. My concern is the ability to use a bowl stead rest for large bowl. Are you able to use a bowl steady rest on the sweet 16 with rail removed for large bowl? thank you

Thats a good question. I do not use a steady rest nor would I for bowl turning. Perhaps a steady rest would be appropriate for a longer hollow form turning, but not bowls. If this is something you want to use, I think the American Beauty might be your answer because of the taller swing.

Many thanks, Kent. I have recently set up the Vari-Grind and have been experimenting on how best to shape some old gouges I received in conjunction with a second hand lathe I bought. I am very pleased to have come across your above article before spending more time experimenting. This is because, I strongly believe, your instructions will provide me with a much shorter learning route to better shape and sharpen my gouges. Like Randy, Ill appreciate additional videos to assist understanding/comprehension.

Sharpening a spindle gouge is an elusive topic. You are right! Perhaps, I need to do an article on that subject. I think it is elusive because there are a few ways to go about sharpening a spindle gouge.

I use a detail (or longer, more pointed) spindle gouge to undercut my dovetail angles on my tenons. To get that steep angle grind, I sharpen the gouge by hand, making a long U shaped move freehand on the sharpening wheel.

It seems there are many different custom shapes possible when sharpening a spindle gouge. But the main principle that the bevel needs to be clean and smooth right up to the top cutting edge applies to every different style.

Hello Kent, I have been turning for over 50 years. The first half of that time was on demand, or rather as needed, with my fathers carbon steel tools and the last half for my personal enjoyment and some monetary gain. I have systematically upgraded my systems and processes using the best technology and techniques available. I, of course, had to wade through a quagmire of informationmostly opinionsand a lot of technology that I had to assimilate. I have attended countless classes with professionals and have finally, over time, begun to realize that I had developed my own style. I have only recently discovered yourI suppose it is called a blog these daysand find it totally validating. Your explanations simplify a lot of technical information so that the average person can understand. Bravo to you!! The only caveat to this accolade, that I have found thus far, is that under Take it Easy (above) you advocate cooling your grind in water. In other articles you caution against that practice with HSSwhich I agree with. Thanks for making woodturning understandable in such a congenial manner.

I also found it difficult to wade through that quagmire (perfect term) when I began learning to turn. That is why I put the time into this site to make everything as clear as possible for as many as possible.

Cooling tools at the sharpening station is one of those quagmire areas where you can find lots of people with lots of opinions. I want to write an article about the subject, but finding definitive information is difficult. Even tool manufacturers, that I have contacted have varying ideas. What Ive found so far seems to say that its ok to cool the tool metal if it has not discolored, or overheated. However, if the tool discolors, the colored area should be ground off. So, going slow and easy, letting the tool periodically cool naturally is really the best way that Ive found so far.

It would be nice to know for sure which bevel angle is optimum for what part of the bowl. For instance a 40 degree angle might be optimum for the push cut from the bowl edge down the inside of the bowl since it would position the tool handle roughly parallel to the lathe bed assuming a 5 to 10 degree bowl side taper. Would a 40 degree bevel facilitate use of the tailstock without interference with the the tool handle when push cutting the bowl side compared to a greater degree tool bevel? The 55 degree might be optimum for the curve between the inner side and the inside bottom of the bowl and the 65 degree bevel might be best for the inside bottom of the bowl.

Does it matter what bevel is used on your shearing bowl gouge? I understand how a longer slightly convex sweep might be optimum for shearing cuts outside the bowl. What is the optimum tool/method for a smooth cut inside the bowl? Would that be a negative rake scrapper tilted for a shear cut? Can the bowl gouge be used for shearing inside the bowl by using a high angle closed tool pull of some sort?

When rough turning green wood is it typical to leave a spigot big enough to be captured by your chuck after shrinkage in the center inside bowl? If not, whats the best way to drive the bowl after drying so that the bottom spigot or recess can be rounded true again? A round jam chuck would touch on only two sides of the dried bowl due to shrinkage.

You really want a sweptback winged bowl gouge to execute shear scraping passes. Read this article about Shear Scraping. There is an infographic which illustrates which gouges work best for shear scraping.

Inside a bowl, I typically make push cuts from the rim to the bottom with my 55 bowl gouge. Occasionally I need to fine-tune an inside curve with a Round Nose Scraper, see this article. Shearing with a bowl gouge can be done very carefully near the rim, but too far inside the bowl and youre likely going to get a nasty catch.

Green wood twice-turning does require you to make the tenon oversized initially. When the first rough turned piece dries, then you can turn a true tenon to the correct size and continue finishing the bowl. I use a plywood plate with padding to brace the twice turned bowl during the second turning. I have a detailed article on twice turning coming out soon. Stay tuned.

Question, when reshaping a bowl gouge does the top angle (from above the top sides of the flute to the tip) get ground separately to form the slope or does this happen naturally as a function of sharpening the wings? Ive seen a couple of videos where people have ground the top slope first (creating a thick U when viewed from above) and then used the vari-grind to sharpen the wings until the wings thin to form a cutting edge. My concern is that I have not seen a guide include this as a step, so I wonder if sharpening the wings simply results in this happening naturally.

Yes, you are spot on. The best way to grind the top back first is to match the angle you desire of another gouge you have on hand. Making that top grind first reduces the amount of grinding needed for the sides. If you decide not to grind the top, the sides will naturally form but they will take a bit longer.

Hi! Im Kent, a dad,husband, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, dark chocolate lover and Im addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see my current bowls available, follow me on Instagram.Ready for your wood bowl adventure?Click here to Get Started

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14 very short answer viva questions on grinding

A process of material removal in the form of small chips by means of rotating abrasive particles bonded together in a grinding wheel to produce flat, cylindrical or other surfaces is known as grinding.

A wheel composed of hard and sharp edged abrasive grains held together by a bonding material and is used to finish within close tolerances on various surfaces by its abrasive action is known as grinding wheel.

Good information Thanks I am producing14 cut off wheel but I cant produce very good quality of wheel so I request you to help My wheel size is 3552.525.4 its weight is 700 gram so kindly help me to teach about the proportion of mixing material and all details about grain size grade structure So with your help in can produce A grade quality wheel of 14 can you teach me whole process waiting for your reply Please reply soon

Good information Thanks I am producing14 cut off wheel but I cant produce very good quality of wheel so I request you to help My wheel size is 3552.525.4 its weight is 700 gram so kindly help me to teach about the proportion of mixing material and all details about grain size grade structure So with your help in can produce A grade quality wheel of 14

grinding objective questions with answers

A grinding wheel consists of the abrasive that does the cutting, and the bond that holds the abrasive particles together. There are two types of abrasives. 1. Natural abrasive The natural abrasives are emery and corrundum,These are impure forms of aluminium oxide. 2. Artificial abrasive Artificial abrasives are silicon carbide and aluminium oxide.

When the cutting edge of a grinding wheel takes a glass-like appearance due to wear of abrasive grains then it is called glazing of the grinding wheel. Glazing decreases the rate of grinding. The glazing in the grinding wheels takes place when the wheel is too hard or it revolves at a very high speed. Thus the glazing may be decreased by using a softer wheel or decreasing the wheel speed. The process of changing the shape of grinding wheel as it becomes worn due to breaking away of the abrasive and bond is called truing. The process of improving the cutting action of the grinding wheel is called dressing.

40-40 bowl gouge grind (shape, sharpen, use) - turn a wood bowl

A 40/40 bowl gouge grind refers to the angles incorporated in the specific sharpening process for this gouge. The bowl gouge bevel angle of the 40/40 grind is 40-degrees, as are the side wing edges. Also, the top slope of the wings to the flute cutting tip is a 40-degree angle.

While this might not be the most cost-effective approach, having a dedicated grinder platform tightened and locked to 40-degrees can be convenient to just slide into the track and begin sharpening without the need to measure angles.


David, Im not as familiar with the Tormek systems as Id like to be. However, the first thing I would watch closely is that you dont pass the flute being parallel with the grinding wheel. In other words, make sure when you have the gouge over to its farthest rotation on the wheel that the inside flute wall is exactly parallel to the wheel and dont go farther. Think of it as a limit point that you dont want to exceed. See if that helps at all. Happy Turning!

I do cover the 40/40 grind in my sharpening online Course. Heres a link for more info. The 40/40 works well for making big ripping and roughing cuts on the exterior of the bowl. I use the 55 swept-back bowl gouge the most.

Tim, Thank you for writing and sharing! Great question. You simply need to spend a little longer time rounding over the nose. Its easy to focus on the wings and in the process, the nose gets a bit elongated. Just roll around the nose a bit more as you work each side and a noise round shape should return. All the best to you and Happy Turning!

It should be any more difficult. Look closely at the bevel edge. Is the bevel smooth an uninterrupted all the way to the cutting edge and continuous all the way around? If, so it should cut like any other bowl gouge, just at a 40 angle.

Kent, I had the same experience discovering the 40/40 grind myself. I had turned countless bowls using my trusted 55 degree Irish grind. Finally one day while organizing all of my older worn down gouges I decided to put the 40/40 grind on one of them. All I can say is WOW!!! When you get the gouge lined up on the sweet spot it just wants to keep going! Effortless. I feel like I have so much more control with it. I have also noticed I dont have to move the tool rest as often to compensate for the downforce on the gouge while its cutting.

Kent, Your website is an amazing wealth of information!! I cant believe how comprehensive and clear you provide information and education. As someone relatively new to turning I feel so grateful that I happened upon your website. I cannot thank you enough for your time, your generosity and your knowledge and skill at sharing that knowledge.

I had recently been turned on to the Vimeo videos done my Stuart Batty and I too was amazed at what a difference it made to the QUALITY of cut and amount of cut possible. There still are many situations however in which I too still grab my 50 degree swept back gouge

Kent, Started turning last April and had unplanned cup of coffee with Stuart Batty at AAW in Raleigh he sent me his package of info which was great. But, this 40 / 40 explanation and diagrams are the best. Thanks.

Have 2nd question. Watched long video of you turning thin oak bowl From green log and finished only with Danish oil. I thought Danish oil had some varnish added to the boiled linseed, am I wrong? Also, why didnt you use a shellac sanding sealer? Im learning and the curve seems steep at times! Thanks, joe

You may be right about some Danish oils having other ingredients like varnish. Unfortunately, wood finishes arent like food products and do not require clear labeling. Many manufacturers use known names like Danish Oil but put their own ingredients to create their versions.

Because of this uncertainty, I use Tried and True products. These are the simplest and most pure finishes you can get without making them yourself. The Tried and True Danish Oil is only boiled linseed oil, period. I also like to use Tried and True Original which is linseed oil and beeswax. They also make a Varnish oil which is linseed oil and pine resin. Heres an article all about the Tried and True Original.

FYI, I use the Danish Oil for more rustic pieces like live edge bowls, but I really like to use the Original (linseed oil and beeswax) because it can be burnished on the lathe after it sets up. See that article for all the details.

I very much appreciate your web site and excellent information. I refer to it frequently. I am intrigued by the 40-40 bowl gouge and will likely try your template to shape one of my bowl gouges. Question: How would you rate the 40-40 gouge for shaping the inside of the bowl, especially the bottom? Thank you, Kent!

Clearing out the inside also goes quick. Depending how steep and deep your side walls are will determine how you use the 40/40 gouge inside. To turn tight corners its best to grind down the heel so it doesnt rub and burnish as you cut.

All in all, the 40/40 gouge is a great overall bowl gouge. It can be used start to finish. I seem to incorporate it most in the exterior portion of my bowls. Then I go to my 55 degree gouge or my micro bevel gouge depending on whats needed.

On setting gouge angles. I recently purchased a Oneway Wolverine sharpening system. Wondering how I would be able to set the angle. I got on the internet and found some Raptor Set Up Templates in 35, 40, 45, 50 and 60 degrees that were designed to be used with the Wolverine Sharpening system.

I downloaded your template and agree this grind works better. No catches so far hollowing bowls. Is it possible to duplicate this grind with the Oneway Varigrind jig? Also, what grit CBN wheels are you using? Your site is very helpful. Thanks,

As far as I know, using the existing Oneway Vari-Grind Jig set-up there is no way to make the 40/40 grind using the jig. The tool needs to be placed perpendicular to the grinding wheel at the ends and the Vari-Grind jig doesnt accommodate that much range. While the Vari-Grind Jig is great for so many other bowl gouge grinds, the 40/40 grind isnt one of them.

Hi! Im Kent, a dad,husband, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, dark chocolate lover and Im addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see my current bowls available, follow me on Instagram.Ready for your wood bowl adventure?Click here to Get Started

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essential bowl woodturning tools - turn a wood bowl

A common question for new wood bowl turners is,What woodturning tools do I need to turn a wood bowl? While its easy to acquire many tools that do different things, there are only a few woodturning tools truly needed to turn a bowl.

If you like buying tools and plan to turn a variety of things, not just wood bowls, then you will need a wider variety of tools. If you have your own woodturning shop, then you probably know exactly what I mean.

However, the bowl gouges and various tools were always in different states of sharpness and bevel angles each week, due to random users. It is probably because of this randomness that I quickly learned all the bowl gouge basics.

The first, and a very obvious tool to get for turning wood bowls is a bowl gouge. I recommend at least two sizes: a more substantial 3/4 bowl gouge and a 1/2 bowl gouge. Check out My Bowl Gouges on My Recommended Woodturning Tools page.

Why two bowl gouges, you may be asking? Well, the first larger bowl gouge is essential for many tasks, including roughing the outside of a bowl, clearing the center material quickly and efficiently. This heavier tool is stable and steady with almost every cut imaginable.

The smaller bowl gouge can do the same tasks as the broader gouge, but not as quickly and not without wearing down sharpness faster. The smaller bowl gouge is ideal for making smooth, clean finishing cuts.

Think of the two bowl gouges as each having their personalities. The larger gouge is the brute that muscles his way into a room without much regard for anyones thoughts. The small bowl gouge is more delicate and refined, like a thoughtful craftsman putting the final touches on an heirloom piece.

The flute of a bowl gouge is much deeper than its sister, spindle gouge. And, by the way, never use a spindle gouge on the mass of a large bowl. The spindle gouge is not designed to handle the torque of a bowl.

And, while Im mentioning it, NEVER use a spindle roughing gouge on a wood bowl. The spindle roughing gouge is for use only on end-to-end spindle turnings. The spindle roughing gouge will snap off at the thin portion near the handle. You may use a bowl roughing gouge to clear the mass of bowl material, but I find my larger bowl gouge does the job just fine.

Many bowl gouges come unsharpened, and it is up to you to determine the particular grind to apply to the bowl gouge. The same initially purchased bowl gouges can be ground to different profiles to fill various needs while turning.

Grind types include fingernail grind, Irish grind, sweptback grind, micro-bevel grind, and everything in between. Each grind angle has advantages and disadvantages. And it seems every turner has their specific angle for each gouge. It is a good idea to have multiple bowl gouges with different grinds.

I use the sweptback grind the most because it gives me many options. Push and pull cuts are the most frequent cuts I make. I can also turn the sweptback bowl gouge over and make scraping and shear cuts for subtle refinements.

I know, I hear your question already: Didnt you just say never use a spindle gouge on a bowl? Yes, not on the outer portions, or walls of the bowl. I have a specific task for the spindle gouge, and it does it well.

Making a simple inward push cut with the spindle gouge accomplishes this task quickly and efficiently. I also use the spindle gouge to make a small indented tick mark on the very center of the tenon. This tick mark helps me align the tailstock live center later when I need to remove the tenon.

Spindle gouges may also be used on bowls to add details, like simple stripes or coves around the rim. Just dont use the spindle gouge to remove large amounts of material or make shaping cuts on a bowl. That is when troubles arise.

If making a tenon by eye is not easy to do with a spindle gouge, there is another option. A parting tool can be reground and repurposed as a dedicated dovetail angle scraper. A custom ground parting/tenon tool allows quick, easy and consistent tenon cuts each time.

You can make a custom tenon tool or purchase one direct now. There are specific scrapers designed just for making dovetail tenon and mortise angles. The tenon scraper can be used instead of attempting to cut the dovetail angle by eye with a spindle gouge.

Also, a flat straight scraper is helpful for refining the outside of bowls. If youre only going with one scraper, I use and recommend a more substantial round nose scraper because it gives more control and does not vibrate as much as a smaller version does.

With a little knowledge and practice, a round nose scraper can be an incredibly useful tool for bowl making. Read this article all about the round nose scraper and make sure youre getting the most out of yours.

The 80/20 rule applies to wood bowl turning for sure. Twenty percent of the wood bowl turning tools needed to make a wood bowl are active 80 percent of the time. That would be the concise list mentioned above.

Once all the wood bowl turning tools are in hand, they need to be sharp. Consistent sharpening requires a good sharpening station. The station doesnt need to be complicated, but it does need to be accurate.

A slow speed grinder is the hub of my sharpening station. Two CBN sharpening wheels are attached to the grinder. One wheel is a 180 grit CBN sharpening wheel, and the other is an 80 grit CBN for shaping wheel.

I use the CBN wheels rather than the white aluminum oxide, because they are more precise and require no maintenance. If you decide to use the aluminum oxide wheels, they will need to be leveled with a dressing stick periodically.

In addition to the sharpening station, handheld sharpening hones are essential to return a shape edge to a given tool easily. Sharpening hones are a great alternative rather than returning to the grinder each time, which removes more steel from the tool.

And last but not least, we need to address the tools and equipment necessary to finish a wood bowl. Once the bowl blank has been turned, shaped, and completed, the finishing process is all that remains.

Typically, sanding takes place once the bowl has is turned. I use an angled electric drill with a 3 velcro sanding pad to sand my bowls. If the piece uses green wood, I have the best success with higher quality mesh sanding disks, which do not clog easily from the wet material. If Im sanding a dry bowl or one with natural edges, I use a standard sanding disk.

The sanding process requires progressing through the various grits resulting in a smooth final surface. I use the 50 percent rule, which means I use grits that are 50 percent larger than the previous. So, I start with 120 grit, then proceed to 180, 240 and 320.

A simple, high-quality Danish oil can be applied. The results of seeing oil applied to the newly sanded bowl are usually stunning. Several coats of Danish oil and drying periods are recommended and will provide a good finish.

However, I prefer a special finish that works great for any bowl and is food-safe and durable. The finish I use most is a combination of beeswax and linseed oil. It leaves a subtle luster finish that soaks into the wood well and creates a beautiful long-lasting, food-safe finish. Follow the simple directions, and one coat creates a fantastic finish.Read my article about My Favorite Food Safe Wood Bowl Finish.

There you have it, whether youre trying to determine the minimal wood bowl turning tools needed to turn a bowl, or equipping a full bowl woodturning workshop, the tools listed here are critical components for bowl turning production.

Of course, this is a minimal listing, and there are numerous other options and additional wood bowl turning tools that can be incorporated into the wood bowl making process. But for the most part, the items discussed in this post will provide a solid foundation for any wood bowl turner.


I am part of the shed association in aldridge near Birmingham England we have started to turn bowls & pens as a group who have various disabilities & some of the members are unable to grip some of the turning tools particularly bowl turning are there any mechanical attachment that could assist our members particularly roughing out the inside of bowls. Any information & were they can be obtained from would be most appreciated.

Your situation is very unique. While I have not personally seen tools specialized for this situation, some ideas do come to mind. Trent Bosch makes a stabilizing arm designed for creating hollow forms. This articulating arm has fluid motion and maintains the cutting tool at the center line of the turning object. Here is a link to Trents site.

There are similar products available elsewhere but I have experience with this one and believe it might work for your needs. The only downside is it might be tricky to position the bowl gouge bevel along the cut. It is really designed for scraping. Scraping the bowl interior might be the best option in your case. The more I think about it, a captured traditional bowl gouge could catch and bind up the stabilizer.

Hi! Im Kent, a dad,husband, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, dark chocolate lover and Im addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see my current bowls available, follow me on Instagram.Ready for your wood bowl adventure?Click here to Get Started

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how to grind weed without a grinder

Smoking weedis a pretty simple process. Break up, throw it in a bowl or roll it up in some paper, and boom, youre ready to rock and roll. Its not like you needed us to tell you that. But heres where we come into play. Grinding up your bud is arguably one of the most important steps of the process, so not having a grinder on deck could serve as a bit of ahindrance. Whether its because you lost it, left it athome on vacation, or just really dont like how finelysome of the better grinders break up your bud, keep in mind there are always solid alternatives. So lets take a look at how to grind weed without a grinder. Its pretty straightforward, really.

This one is a pretty classic technique, and common sense if you brainstorm on the matter of how to grind weed without a grinder for five seconds. Still, its worth putting on the list. Theres no real need for an explanation with this one. Simply make sure your knife is sharp enough. Otherwise, if youre holding some real sticky shit, its just going to stick to the knife. At that point, you might as well karate chop it with your hand. Make sure you got a sharp knife, and youre gucci.

The pillbottle and a coin method is an old-school technique that works to perfection. Get an empty pill bottle, and throw the bud you want to grind up in there. Then, get either a dime or a penny and add it to the bottle (FYI, youll probably want to clean the coin with some hand sanitizer, rubbing alcohol, or cleaner first). Screw on the bottle top and shake it like a polaroidpicture. Even the stickiest of icky doesnt stand a chance against this method.

Scissors are a good tool to break up buds, but the scissors and shot glass method really takes the cake. This might be a little tough if youre at a concert or festival, but if youre at home and have a pair of scissors, you should be good to go. All you do is put your bud in the shot glass, and begin snipping at it. A shot glass gives you the perfect range of motion, but if you dont have one, you can also use a small cup or something like it.

How to grind weed without a grinder Part IV requires another common household itema coffee grinder. This method can be a pain to clean, but its the closest thing to grinding it with an actual weed grinder because, well, youre using a grinder. And if youre grinding up larger quantities of weed, this is probably the best way to go.

Alright, this method is a little crazy, but hey, why not add it to the list? If you really like your bud ground to a fine powder, this method works. Its certainly not your best bet. Also, its probably the biggest hassle to clean, as you need to clean your blender blades thoroughlyafter youre done grinding your weed. It might not be the most effective waybut hey, its a way.

This method might make you feel like youre a 14th century apothecary, but its still effective, nonetheless. A pestle and mortar has long served as a way to mix the medicine, so to speak, and grinding weed certainly falls under that umbrella.

But in all seriousness, these things were literally invented to grind herbs. Think of it as your great, great, great, great, great, great ancestors grinder. And its pretty self-explanatorysimply place the buds in the mortar (aka the bowl-like receptacle) and crush it up with the pestle. The only think wed suggest is leaving the bud out for a little bit to dry out before using this method. After all, its pretty difficult to break up moist, sticky bud with a tool that predates Christ.

Desperate times call for desperate measures, and if youre all out of ideas, well, were not one to judge. Just pretend that big beautiful bud is a hunk of parmesan cheese and start grating away. Just make sure you give it a thorough rinse before your Nonna makes her famous pasta fagioli.

If youre someone who outright refuses to break up bud without the use of a grinder, you might have to get a little creative. And by creative, we mean literally making your own grinder from scratch. This method is probably the most unconventional (and perhaps counterproductive, especially if you have to go to the store and buy the necessary parts), but if you already have all the items at home its actually pretty simple. And effective.

Once you make sure the can is empty, all you have to do is pierce nailspreferably, thumbtacksinto the top and bottom sides of the tin. Like a real grinder, make sure the top and bottom row of tacks dont overlap each other, or else you wont be able to close the tin and grind. After you insert the nails/tacks with proper spacing, put the weed in the can like a regular grinder, close it, and twist away. You wont have a third compartment or kief catcher at the bottom, but your bud should certainly be ground up.

Last but not least, the most obvious answer to the question of how to grind weed without a grinderjust freaking break it up. If your bud is too sticky, this can be a real pain, but its still worth it if you dont feel like scrounging around for makeshift, household items. If its really SUPER sticky, you can leave it out to dry a little, or even put it in the freezer for a bit. Either way, this is probably the simplest way to break up your bud.

how to use a grinder: a step-by-step guide - honest marijuana

Want to get the most out of that ounceof Cherry OGyou just bought?Want to look like a professional stoner (oh, if only there was such a thing)? Want to impress your friends and be the envy of all those around you? If you answered yes to any of these questions, the answer is simple: learn how to use a grinder.

Grinders dont get a lot of press, but theyre an essential piece of equipment that no committed cannaseur should be without. In this article, the experts at Honest Marijuanashow you how to use a grinder and tell you everything you need to know about this helpful tool.

First comes the lid. It may have teeth or pegs to help with the grinding. Next comes the grinding chamber. It may have teeth or pegs as well. In a three-piece grinder, the bottom of the grinding chamber will have holes for the ground-up bud to fall through (a two-piece grinder wont have those holes).

As you grind, the larger (but still ground-up) pieces of marijuana fall into the collection chamber. As you continue to grind and agitate the whole thing, tiny, pollen-like material falls through the screen into the bottom chamber. This pollen-like material is kief, which well talk about in the next section.

Weve mentioned kief a number of times throughout this article, but what is it exactly? Kief is the term cannaseurs use to refer to the terpenesand cannabinoidsthat separate from the trichomes during the grinding process.

Grinding unlocks all the wonderful tastes and aromas that your favorite strain of Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookieshas to offer. This may not seem like a big deal when all you care about is getting high, but improving the flavor can only add to the amazing experience.

As we mentioned, ground marijuana is more potent than whole buds. That means you dont have to use as much of the ground stuff to feel the same effects and you can stretch that ounce of Yoda OGeven farther.

This may not sound like a good thing, but it is. Small grounds burn more evenly and more completely. That cuts down on the unburned plant matter that can harsh your experience and cause you to hack up a lung.

Sure, you can still carry your bud in a baggie, but cmon man. This is the 21st century! It looks much cooler if you transport your weed in a grinder. Plus, your stash will be protected by the top, bottom, and sides of the grinder. That just makes good sense.

Replace the lid. Hold the bottom of the grinder with one hand and rotate the lid with the other hand. At first, there will be some resistance, so give it a little muscle. Rotate the grinder until you feel the resistance disappear.

Before removing the lid on either collection chamber, give your grinder a tap against the table or the palm of your hand. This helps dislodge the cannabis into the collection chamber and pushes more kief through the screen.

They probably have a few floor-model grinders laying around that you can try before you buy. If you have them walk you through the process first, you might pick up more tips to make your marijuana-grinding experience even better.

Honest Marijuana operates in compliance with state laws regarding access to cannabis. You must be 21 years of age or older to view this website. By clicking I agree you swear and/or affirm under penalty of perjury that you are at least 21 years of age. Nothing on this website should be considered legal advice or as a substitute for legal advice.

how to use a mortar and pestle: 12 steps (with pictures) - wikihow

wikiHow is a wiki, similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 26 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. There are 8 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. The wikiHow Culinary Team also followed the article's instructions and verified that they work. This article has been viewed 322,310 times. Learn more...

When you've graduated beyond pre-packaged spices and you're ready to grind your own fresh cinnamon, cloves, peppercorn, cumin and more, there's no more useful tool than a mortar and pestle. Spices, garlic, nuts or seeds are placed in the mortar, then crushed with the pestle, releasing their fresh flavors and oils. You'll really notice the difference in taste! See Step 1 to learn how to use a mortar and pestle to step your cooking up a few notches.

To use a mortar and pestle, start by placing the raw ingredients you want to grind up in the mortar. Then, hold the mortar in place with one hand and the pestle in your other. Press the end of the pestle against the ingredients and twist it back and forth until everything is ground up evenly. When you're finished, pour the ground up ingredients into your recipe or store them in a glass jar. To learn how to grind large spices and seeds with a pestle, scroll down! Did this summary help you?YesNo

can you grind dried rosemary?

Cooking with Dried Herbs So, if it requires a tablespoon of fresh rosemary, use half a tablespoon of dried rosemary. Add more as needed, or until you've reached the desired level of herby flavor. You can, and should, easily crush the herbs in your hands to release more flavor before they are added to your dish.

Beside above, how do you grind dried herbs? Mortar and Pestle Measure 1 to 2 tablespoons of dried herbs into the bottom of a mortar. Place the pestle in the bowl and begin grinding. Firmly press the pestle into the bottom and sides of the bowl to crush the herbs. Continue crushing until you have a fine, even powder.

Grind Up Those Herbs Pick some organic rosemary and oregano from the garden. Allow it to dry for a few days. Take the rosemary and oregano leaves off of the branches after drying. Use a coffee grinder, which can double as an herb grinder, to shred up the rosemary and oregano.

Do chop rosemary leaves finely if you are not using whole sprigs. Rosemary has needle-like leaves that can be tough, even after they have been cooked for a long time. It is a good idea to remove the leaves from their stems and mince them before adding them to a dish.

The herb contains substances that are useful for improving digestion and increasing circulation. In cooking, rosemary is used as a seasoning in a variety of dishes, such as soups, casseroles, salads, and stews. Use rosemary with chicken and other poultry, game, lamb, pork, steaks, and fish, especially oily fish.

The general rule for swapping dried for fresh herbs is to use 1/3 of the amount called for in the recipe. If a recipe calls for 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, then add 1 teaspoon dried rosemary (there are 3 teaspoons in a tablespoon).

Some of the most popular culinary uses of rosemary include: Vinegars and Oils. One of the easiest ways of preserving the flavors of rosemary is by making a simple vinegar or oil infusion. Herbal Butter. Rosemary Salt. Sauces and Soups. Salads and Salad Dressings. Breads and Pastas. Desserts. Drinks.

Savory flavors will help to distract from and mask the intensity of rosemary. One way is simply to add a little monosodium glutamate (MSG). You can add the MSG directly or in a stock or bouillon cube. Other options include adding soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce or even seaweed depending on the dish.

With the rehydration process -- usually in conjunction with the recipe -- the herbs retain their natural flavor. Immerse the dried herbs in a small bowl of water with enough water to cover the herbs completely. Cover the container tightly. Allow the herbs to stand in the water for 10 minutes to become fully rehydrated.

After washing and drying rosemary sprigs, bundle them together, tie them up at their bases, and hang in a well-ventilated area to air-dry. Rosemary also dries evenly in the oven. Place sprigs on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and set the oven on the lowest temperature possible.

Ground, it is used most commonly in sauces, soups and baking savory dishes such as muffins or corn bread. As most ground spices do, rosemary seems to lose its flavor quickly. But as we grind our spices weekly, you are assured freshness. Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean.

Rosemary has a range of possible health benefits. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Improving digestion. Enhancing memory and concentration. Neurological protection. Prevent brain aging. Cancer. Protection against macular degeneration.

Rosemary is an herb in the mint family. It is a small evergreen shrub, Rosmarinus officinalis, whose 1-inch leaves resemble curved pine needles. Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean. Rosemary has a tea-like aroma and a piney flavor.

Rosemary has a very pronounced lemon-pine flavor, yet it is also woodsy and peppery at the same time. The taste is piney, but also bitter and somewhat astringent. The aroma is tea-like, with a fragrance similar to charred wood that makes it extremely compatible with barbecued dishes.

1- Fill a clean, dry, glass jar around two-thirds full with dried Rosemary. Do not pack the Rosemary and leave it loose so the oil will have enough space to cover the herbs. 2- Completely immerse the rosemary with high quality extra virgin olive oil. Cover the herbs with oil so they will not be exposed to air.

Making Dried Rosemary Powder. Pull the Rosemary leaves off the stems, discarding the stems and any very 'woody' leaves. Pop the leaves into a blender and zap them until they're at the consistency you want. You now have Rosemary powder which you can transfer into a container to go with your other herbs and spices.

Thyme (/ta?m/) is any member of the genus Thymus of aromatic perennial evergreen herbs in the mint family Lamiaceae. Thymes are relatives of the oregano genus Origanum. They have culinary, medicinal, and ornamental uses, and the species most commonly cultivated and used for culinary purposes is Thymus vulgaris.

Here are my three favorite replacements so that you can smash your spices and aromatics with ease. 1Try a Coffee Grinder. A coffee grinder is virtually identical to a spice grinder, making it a great mortar and pestle substitute. 2Use a Coffee Mug. 3Grab a Ziplock Bag & Blunt Object.

Grinding Herbs With A Coffee Grinder Place 2-3 tablespoons of herb matter into a clean coffee grinder. Continue grinding until your herbs are as fine as you can get them. If you'd like them to be ground even finer, transfer to a mortar and pestle and grind by hand.


The precision machined wheel bushings (includes two bushings) replace the plastic ones typically supplied with new wheels. These positions the mass of the wheel concentrically and perpendicularly on the axle.

Turner's Edge bowl gouge from Robust. Premium HSS subjected to a proprietary metallurgical process for a much longer-lasting edge and superior chip ejection. We are receiving very positive responses from customers regarding their experiences with these gouges! Most report how much longer the sharpened edge last and how well shavings exit the flute.

Sharpening the Robust Turner's Edge bowl gouge is a breeze with our Evolution Sharpening System! The Evolution make it easy to set up your Wolverine system for sharpening the Turner's Edge and other bowl gouges. Within minutes, you will be on your way to better sharpening!

The Tru N Dress "E" works perfectly on a Wolverine 3" x 5" Tool Rest! ubmit a contact form to get on the list!The Tru N Dress "E" works perfectly on a Wolverine 3" x 5" Tool Rest! ubmit a contact form to get on the list!

The ultimate experience in woodturning today! The last lathe you will ever need! Fulfill your dream! American Beauty is in the build process! Same price as the factory, but much quicker to ship!The ultimate experience in woodturning today! The last lathe you will ever need! Fulfill your dream! American Beauty is in the build process! Same price as the factory, but much quicker to ship!

The single greatest improvement you can make to ANY lathe is to add a Robust tool rest! Each comes with a lifetime warranty!The single greatest improvement you can make to ANY lathe is to add a Robust tool rest! Each comes with a lifetime warranty!

Includes a 2-position Vari-Grind Pre-Set Gauge, a 60-degree calibration gauge, a 4-position inscribed gauge block, a Stop Collar and hex wrench. A laminated graphic reference of 3-grinds to tape to your grinder. Quick-Start InstructionsIncludes a 2-position Vari-Grind Pre-Set Gauge, a 60-degree calibration gauge, a 4-position inscribed gauge block, a Stop Collar and hex wrench. A laminated graphic reference of 3-grinds to tape to your grinder. Quick-Start Instructions

Important Note: This video is a bit out of date and will be replaced soon. We now provide a nicely machined and engraved Aluminum Gauge Block, instead of the wooden one shown. And the Wooden Vari-Grind Pre-Set Gauge now has two-positions instead of just one, as shown.

"...THANK YOU for all your help. I used the (Evolution) sharpening set up system -- WOW what a GREAT and simple process that yields a perfectly sharpened tool. Thank you for the great customer service!!"

I've learned to appreciate quality tools and machinery. I greatly appreciate the value of products I use every time I turn that make the process more enjoyable, simpler and contribute to better results.

One of the greatest benefits I offer is personalized and knowledgeable customer service. As the president and owner of the company, I take great pride in supporting the products we offer. Having designed many of the products myself, I have intimate knowledge of how each is used which enables me to answer most questions without delay. I promise you won't be talking to someone in a call center halfway around the world.

food waste disposal faqs

InSinkErator food waste disposers use no blades whatsoever. Instead, impellers mounted on a spinning plate use centrifugal power to force food waste particles against a grind ring. That ring breaks down the food waste into very fine particles virtually liquefying them.

Running water from the tap then flushes the particles through the grind ring out of the disposer and into your wastewater pipe. From there it flows to the wastewater treatment plant or your septic system.

All this means that disposers are an environmentally responsible alternative to conventional disposal methods such as landfill. Not only does this help reduce greenhouse gas emissions, but it means that food waste can be processed and used for renewable energy.

The cost for operating any waste disposer is relatively low. InSinkErator disposers grind faster, so they use less electricity. Operating a 1/2 HP (.55 HP) waste disposal unit for a month consumes power equal to a 100 watt light bulb switched on for an hour. Disposers use very little water, but the speed of an InSinkErator food waste disposer keeps it to the absolute minimum on average just a .04% increase in water consumption.

No. An InSinkErator food waste disposer will fit a single bowl or half bowl, stainless steel or other material. The standard 3.5 inches (90mm) sink opening is ideal and the disposer comes with an attachment for that size. However, accessory flanges are available for most non-standard holes/sinks. Remodeling the kitchen is an ideal time to think about the importance of convenience and hygiene and how to eliminate the problems of food waste. It also means that a professional might be on hand to do the installation. A disposer can also be installed into an existing sink/kitchen.

You can absolutely have a disposer with your septic system. Not only do we have a Septic Assist Disposer specifically for use with a septic system, but all other InSinkErator disposers can be used with septic systems as well. If your system is using a dishwasher or clothes washer, it can handle a disposer. After all, a disposer uses only about as much water per day as one flush of a toilet. Disposers by themselves will not clog a septic tank if the tank meets government standards and is adequately maintained.

An InSinkErator food waste disposer is designed to be maintenance-free. The best way to keep it in good condition is simply to use it regularly. Keep it clean with a moderate stream of cold water after you've used it. You can use baking soda to freshen the disposer up, particularly if a little food waste has been left inside it. And here's an InSinkErator tip for extra freshness - grind a lemon or citrus fruit for a few seconds without water. Never put bleach in the food waste disposer.

grinding bowl crossword clue

The clue "Grinding bowl" was last spotted by us at the Crossword Champ Crossword on January 14 2019. Featuring some of the most popular crossword puzzles, uses the knowledge of experts in history, anthropology, and science combined to provide you solutions when you cannot seem to guess the word. Keep in mind that we have over 3 million clues with their own respective solutions so feel free to search on the search bar on the top of the page if you think that this is not what you are looking for.

Featuring some of the most popular crossword puzzles, uses the knowledge of experts in history, anthropology, and science combined to provide you solutions when you cannot seem to guess the word.

Keep in mind that we have over 3 million clues with their own respective solutions so feel free to search on the search bar on the top of the page if you think that this is not what you are looking for.

to grind or not to grind - medicine man denver

There is no single answer to the question: Should I grind this cannabis flower? The answer depends on a variety of factors, with the most important item to consider being the intensity of the effect that the consumer seeks. Our budmasters will gladly provide complimentary recommendations based on the consumer, their cannabis goals, and the type(s) of cannabis flowers they intend to purchase.

We recommend that consumers grind buds that are moist or sticky; attempting to break these buds down by hand will result in many of the active chemicals spreading onto the hands with no effect. Consumers who roll their cannabis into joints should grind the buds for an easier-burning joint. Consumers burning their cannabis in a bowl should grind to increase the cannabiss surface area and cause an increase in temperature. And cannabis users who want to collect and use keef the crystals on cannabis buds should grind their buds and use a keef-catching bowl to ensure that the keef can be used with a future bowl or as a standalone product.

Dry buds can be broken down by hand without the risk of the active chemicals accumulating on the hands. Consumers who want a lighter or less intense effect can burn the side of a nug instead of grinding the nug and burning the resulting powder. And consumers who want to preserve the trichomes crystalline chemicals with potent effects should consider not grinding since the act of grinding damages or destroys trichomes.

Medicine Man operates four marijuana dispensaries in Denver, Aurora, Thornton, and Longmont. Our dispensaries offer a variety of sativa, indica, and hybrid flowers. Please feel free to contact us by filling out our online form or give us a call.

10 best bowl gouges - reviewed and rated (jul. 2021)

Just as there are some excellent bowl gouges in the market, there are some bad ones as well, and you could end up with either one. Of course, the latter is not what you want, and there are steps you can take to effectively end up with the best bowl gouges available. However, that needs some work that starts with you learning what these tools are capable of and their features.

As for the features, they are inclusive of flute width, materials, durability, length, and sharpness. Any one of them could make your use of the bowl gouge a joy or something you dread. They could also give you a hint of how your wooden bowls would turn out. As such, getting the best bowl gouges for the job should be top on your priority list. If you dont know any good options in the market, we have listed some below, as well as the reasons why they would make exceptional purchases. You should keep reading to see what they have to offer.

The Hurricane Turning Tools Three-Piece Bowl Gouge Set will suffice as our top bowl gouge pick of the day out of the ten options listed. Notably, this is a three-piece set with varying flute width sizes, and thus the versatility of the purchase is commendable.

Also, the sizes of the handles coincide with the flute width. You should know that youll have more leverage with a longer and heavier handle as you shape wood bowls. This allows you to remove larger chunks of material from the wood, and it can dramatically shorten the work period.

Furthermore, the shanks in all three bowl gouges are made from high-speed steel (HSS), which will handle friction and heat from the bowl gouging process with ease. Additionally, the durability of HSS is something to be admired.

As mentioned above, the gouges come in a standard grind giving you leeway to shape them. This would ensure you set your desired angle so that you can have an easier time working the gouge in the future.

What are its best features? We liked the bowl gouges construction, which includes a hardwood handle and a high-speed steel shaft. Also, there are three gouges of different sizes in the set, giving lots of value to buyers.

You might also decide to pull out the money in your wallet to purchase the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge. As insinuated by the picture, this package comes with a single gouge, as do all other options listed apart from the editors choice. That said, it would still prove an excellent piece of equipment in your workshop.

Notably, the flute width is in size, and the shaft comes made out of M42 HSS. Also, the high-speed steel has been hardened to 66/69 HRC and has been cryogenically treated, which means you can use this tool for a relatively long time after purchase.

When it arrives at your door, the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge will measure 26 of which some of it will be the shaft while the rest will be the copper handle incorporated. Additionally, since this is a long bowl gouge, youll find the balance to be impressive.

In terms of exterior design, the Hurricane Turning Tools HTT-242KW Bowl Gouge and the Pinnacle Cryogenic Fingernail Grind Bowl Gouge may look similar. The flute width is the same for the two bowl gouges, as is the handle length.

Another thing the two gouges have in common is the cryogenic treatment of their M2 HSS shanks in production. These similarities may have something to do with the fact that they are both made in Sheffield, England.

The Pinnacle Cryogenic Fingernail Grind Bowl Gouge is the second bowl gouge listed with a cryogenically treated blade. Couple this with M2 HSS construction, and you should be looking at a long term purchase for your toolkit.

Remember that only you know the bevel angle and the type of grind that best works for you. As such, if youve determined this to be the Irish grind, you cant go wrong purchasing the Pinnacle Cryogenic Fingernail Grind Bowl Gouge.

Why are we impressed? We liked the durable, temperature-resistant shaft and that it comes in an Irish grind design. Also, the entire length of the bowl gouge is consistent with the removal of larger amounts of material and a shorter work time. The bowl gouge is also pleasing to look at.

Another bowl gouge makes it onto our list as the Robert Sorby 842XLH-1/2 Deep Flute Bowl Gouge. This pick takes us back to the wooden handle options listed. Also, the handle seems ergonomically designed to ensure a good grip.

Like the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge, this options full length is 26. Of this, 17 inches are taken up by the handle, leaving you with a 9 shaft. This should last you a while, even if you sharpen the tool regularly.

Also, like other high-end bowl gouges, the shaft in this model is high-speed steel allowing you to use it on wood without worrying about high temperatures. Another impressive aspect is the brass ferrule, which is stylish and serves to protect the wooden handle.

Why did it make our list? We liked that this is a standard grind bowl gouge. The overall length is just as impressive as in the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge. The brass ferrule adds style and more durability to the handle. Also, the durability of the shaft is something to write home about as well.

Another gouge option worth considering is the Woodstock D3804 with its 1/2 flute. The manufacturer chose a 90-day warranty to set this bowl gouge apart from the competition in the market and succeeded.

It also seems the Woodstock is impressive in terms of size and construction. For the former, the 22-5/8 length is not as long as the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge, but it still works for most people. As for the latter, a high-speed steel shank is complemented by an ash wood handle.

Why did it make our list? We liked the length of the entire tool, inclusive of the handle and the shaft. We also liked the construction of both components. The 90-day warranty is an extra reason to complete the purchase.

Another bowl gouge pick with a 16 handle is available in the Stone Mountain SM7070 Fingernail Bowl Gouge. Since the components used to make this bowl gouge are high-speed steel, the tool should retain sharp edges for long periods.

Also, the flute width on this tool insinuates that this is a relatively small gouge. If that works for the jobs you have at hand, you can go ahead to open up your wallet. Youre also reminded to hone the tool to your specific needs before taking it out on a test run.

Next, we have the PFEIL Swiss Made Gouge No.8, which seems similar in shape to the spoon carving knife. The handle is also unique in shape and isnt very long. That said, it is designed in such a way that you have something to hold on to.

The special alloy steel used to make the blade is also worthy of praise. As mentioned above, the tool comes hand-sharpened, and as such, even you wont have a hard time making the best use of the blade. Nevertheless, the shaft and blade being as small as it is, I wouldnt go overboard sharpening this tool if I were you.

The BeaverCraft G7L/22 Wood Carving Gouge is another possible purchase you can look at. First, the flute width seems quite large, but once you look at the design of the gouge, you can see why. Also, this is the only bowl gouge to use high-carbon steel construction in the blade.

Notably, since high-speed steel is often considered more durable than the high carbon steel used in this pick, you might find some of you reconsidering the purchase. However, depending on what jobs you have in mind for the gouge, the investment may still be worth it.

The handle is not left from the list of pros for the BeaverCraft G7L/22 Wood Carving Gouge. This is because its made from oak with a ferrule added to keep it from splitting. The ergonomics of the handle also allow it to be easy to hold.

Both the handle and the blade measure 6.1 and 5.2 respectively, bringing the total length to 11.3. Lastly, be careful in your use of the BeaverCraft G7L/22 Wood Carving Gouge from the day you get it as the blade is quite sharp.

It also makes sense for the PFEIL Swiss Made Gouge No.8 to be on our list. As you can probably guess, this pick and the PFEIL Swiss Made Gouge No.8 are from the same manufacturer. The names also imply the tools are of Swedish origin.

This tools alloy-chrome vanadium steel shank is hand-sharpened by the time it leaves the factory. As such, itll make light work of digging concave sections of your bowl. Another component to be impressed with is the hardwood handle, which is fashioned in an octagonal shape.

Even with as small a list as the one above, it may still prove tricky to choose one option. However, below is a list of markers you can use to see if the bowl gouges quality is up to standard with your needs. If you choose to use the section below as your buying guide, we have no doubt youll end up making a splendid selection.

A bowl gouge is a handy tool for anyone wanting to turn wooden bowls. It works in conjunction with a lathe and consists of a metal shaft and a handle. The shaft in question also has a groove, which in woodturning circles is known as a flute. This component may vary in size from gouge to gouge. Another component is the tip, which often comes with an angled bevel. This makes up the cutting edge of the gouge.

At the start of this write-up, we mentioned that you need to know the bowl gouges capabilities before opening your wallet. That hasnt changed, and as you probably know, the list of features determines what each gouge can and cant do. As such, the features list below should be invaluable in helping you pick the best bowl gouge for your use needs.

Large gouges usually have a flute width of about, 5/8 which makes them ideal for making large bowls. Also, if you have a lot of waste material in your project to get rid of, this option can easily make light work of the task.

Medium bowl gouges like the Hurricane Turning Tools HTT-242KW Bowl Gouge come with a 1/2 flute and often a 16mm shank to go with it. The medium option is perhaps the most well-rounded one and thus can take on various tasks. It is also the go-to pick if youre only just starting in the field.

Another box you have to check when buying the perfect bowl gouge is the materials used in construction. Remember that the best bowl gouges are durable and can take the heat caused by friction during use.

Often, youll find that some variation of steel is used to make the shaft. However, while carbon steel is undoubtedly durable, it doesnt hold out all that well when sharpened. As such, more and more manufacturers opt to use high-speed steel instead.

HSS material can take a beating, hold its edge for longer, and sharpening is relatively easy. Consequently, options like the Robert Sorby 842XLH-1/2 Deep Flute Bowl Gouge get top marks for having it in their construction.

The shape will also be a dictating feature in how you use the bowl gouge. Typically youll have three options, i.e., the U-shaped, v-shaped, and the parabolic shaped gouge. These shapes refer to the shape of the flute.

The first two are common with older bowl gouge models and are being phased out by the parabolic option. Their major downside is that they catch onto wood easily, and therefore they may not be able to provide a smooth, even cut.

Your purchase will likely not come with a predetermined bevel angle. Instead, you may get a standard grind option like the one in the Hurricane Turning Tools Three-Piece Bowl Gouge Set. As such, itll be your job to shape the edge of the shaft into the type of grind you want from the above picks.

Theres no correct answer as to what angle a bowl gouge should be. This is because different bevel angles will work for different people. Nevertheless, there is a range that you can work with that is between 40 and 70.

For starters, get a gouge sharpening jig system as itll make your work easier. Also, it may seem like an expensive affair at first, but it will be more efficient than trying to hand sharpen the gouge. Make sure youre using fine grit on the machine, then once you start the system, apply the bevel edge to the sharpening wheel.

In a situation where we had to choose a few bowl gouges to go with, it would be the Hurricane Turning Tools Three-Piece Bowl Gouge Set, the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge, or the Hurricane Turning Tools HTT-242KW Bowl Gouge.

The three-piece bowl gouge set impressed us since not many picks come in sets of three. Also, the size varieties and shank construction are impressive. In second place is the Big Horn 25302 Bowl Gouge. The manufacturer decided to stray from tradition and ended up with a copper handle. Additionally, you get lots of balance for your woodturning jobs after selecting this option.