Last month I worked on remodeling our kids bathroom for only $100. I didnt quite hit the $100 goal because we had to replace the vanity, including vanity top & sink, and floor. But I still managed to create an amazing bathroom on a budget.
I chose to use an undermount sink. I originally thought I could try to use a stainless steel bowl as a sink, but it was a failed attempt. But I found a beautiful undermount sink that worked for the hole I created in the vanity top and looks great!
The concrete backsplashes were also made with that 1 bag of concrete. They are only 1/2 thick, and I like the thinner backsplash. However, the longer one broken when removing it from the mold so I would suggest making it thicker or adding some wire to support the thin piece.
When we made the DIY concrete countertop on our kitchen island, we did not need to use any rebar or reinforcement. The large slab was fully supported by the cabinets underneath and there were no narrow sections.
A vanity top has narrow sections because there is an opening for the sink and a hole for the faucet (or holes depending on your preferred faucet). Because of that, rebar is needed to reinforce these narrow areas.
For the concrete vanity top, one pieces of rebar is placed parallel to the front of the vanity between the edge and the opening for the sink. A second piece is placed between the back of the sink opening and the front of the hole for the faucet. And a third piece is placed between the faucet hole and the rear of the vanity top.
For our kitchen island, I used a sealer that has to be reapplied frequently. But I knew I wanted something more hands off for the kids bathroom. Also, I did not mind if the bathroom vanity was a bit shinier than the natural concrete.
I thinned the first coat with 10% water to help it to soak into the vanity and it absorbed very well. Then I followed it up with 2 more coats. The concrete has a slight smooth feel, but it still looks like concrete.
Decide how much of an overhang you want around your vanity, I typically do a 3/4 overhang. If one (or two) sides of your vanity is up against the wall, you do not need to plan an overhang on those side. Instead just measure from the wall.
EXPERT TIP: Use a fine toothed saw blade to minimize chipping of the melamine (look for ones labeled for cutting plywood). And to further reduce chipping, you can also apply a piece of painters tape to the cut line before cutting.
To assemble the form, start by predrilling holes for the screws to hold the sides of the form to the bottom. If you do not predrill, the thin boards will split. Make sure the screws are positioned so they will be centered to the bottom board.
Also, if you want to make matching concrete backsplashes for your vanity top, build the forms the same way. My backsplashes were built only 1/2 thick and 2 tall, but you can make them any size you want.
To draw a circle, cut a scrap of wood longer than the radius of your circle. Drill a hole close to the edge of the board, then hammer a finishing nail through the board the exact distance from the hole as the radius of your circle (radius is 1/2 of the diameter).
If you foam is too thick like mine, saw it in half so it is the same thickness as your vanity top will be. I used a combination of a serrated bread knife and my flush cut trim saw to cut the foam in half.
EXPERT TIP: No need to worry too much about creating a perfectly smooth top on your concrete. The exposed edge is is actually the underside of the vanity top. The melamine on the inside of the form will create a perfectly smooth top to your vanity once removed from the form.
Also, you can use a flat piece of scrap wood to scree the top of the concrete. With a smaller vanity top it was not as necessary, but ensured the concrete was a uniform thickness which will make the installed vanity level.
To remove the bubbles from the concrete and ensure a smooth surface, you will need to vibrate the concrete. We used an electric sander and sawsall without the blade to vibrate the vanity top and backsplash pieces.
For our undermount sink, I did not want to use the sink clips and drill into the concrete. Instead I used 22 scraps to create a cradle around the sink holding it flush with the top of the vanity. Then applied silicone around the top of the sink as well before placing the vanity top on the DIY vanity.
Hi, I'm Kati! I spent the last 10 years remodeling our home, project-by-project, room-by-room. Now we are tackling our second home, with 5 acres of land to DIY as well! Join us as we share everything we learn, while hoping to inspire you to tackle your own DIYs and creating your dream home on a budget too!
Bathroom vanity cabinets are a staple of many homes. These compact multi-purpose units store bathroom essentials in drawers, hide cleaning products, and of course, act as a base for the bathroom vanity top and sink. You'll find innumerable vanity tops available for purchase that fit your vanity cabinet. Another way to add a countertop is to pour your own concrete vanity top.
If the project sounds far-fetched, it's anything but. For any do-it-yourselfer with a creative bent, making a concrete vanity top is fun and low-costplus you'll have a counter that you truly can call your own.
Many of those immaculately smooth concrete countertops you see in high-end kitchens are made with a secret: an upside-down concrete form. Professional concrete technicians are adept at pouring upright countertops and smoothing the surface with trowels. But another way they achieve a glass-smooth finish is by pouring the concrete into an upside-down concrete form. The form's perfectly flat bottom, sides, and beveled edges are transferred to the concrete vanity top, with very little post-molding work required.
Concrete has excellent compressive strength but poor tensile strength. Concrete technicians embed metal rebar mesh inside of the concrete to improve its strength. As a do-it-yourselfer, you can do this, too. Home centers sell small sections of rebar mesh that are perfect for making concrete vanity tops. The mesh is easy to cut with a hacksaw.
Poured concrete contains voids can partially be eliminated by pushing the concrete around. Vibrating the mixture helps to force trapped air out, resulting in a denser, stronger countertop. Tapping the form with a rubber mallet or a hammer can do this. You can use any tool around your shop that vibrates, such as a sander, or you can rent a small electrically operated concrete vibrator for a day or two from a local rental yard.
Concrete is heavy. The volume of the concrete in this project is about .66 cubic feet or 100 pounds. Lift the vanity top and form with a partner. After you release the vanity top from the form, watch out of the edges. Even though you rounded down the edges in advance, some razor-sharp parts will remain. Wear gloves when handling the vanity top.
With the tape measure, measure the width and depth of the sink cabinet from the top (with no countertop). If you intend to install a new sink, a paper or cardboard cut-out may be included to help you mark out the dimensions of the sink. If the faucet and controls come up through holes on the sink, you will not need to add holes to the concrete vanity top.
Remember to account for countertop overhang. Counters typically overhang 1 1/2 inches to 2 inches on the front and sides. There is no overhang in the back because the countertop will be flush against the wall.
Lay the vanity top template on top of a melamine-faced medium-density fiberboard (MDF) panel, common thickness 3/4-inch. If the back side of the template is straight, then place it against one of the factory-cut sides of the board. Make sure there is space around the other three sides of the template. Clamp down the template. With the marker, draw the vanity top shape on the board. Also draw the sink cut-out.
Strips of melamine board that rise 2 inches from the bottom of the form will act as sidewalls to create a container for the wet concrete. With the bottom of the form on a table and the melamine side facing up, lay the sidewall material against the sides of the form. The edges of sidewall material must rest on the table.
Cut strips of melamine board 2 inches wide. Piece these together and cut as necessary to form the shape of the sink cut-out. Attach to the form bottom from below with screws. Keep this cut-out square with the Speed Square.
By adding silicone caulk to all of the 90-degree joints and then rounding the caulk, you create the reverse appearance after the counter is released from the form. The reverse is a rounded, or eased, edge. Caulk also prevents the concrete mix from seeping through the seams between the sidewalls and the form bottom.
Put on a pair of latex gloves. Squirt silicone caulk into all of the 90-degree inner joints on the form. Then, use a marble, the end of a glue stick, a ball bearing, or any round or circular item, and draw the item through the caulk. Wetting the item with water will help it move through the caulk without sticking.
Do not overwork the bevel. Aim to draw through the caulk just one time, if possible. Two parallel rows of caulk will form on the sides of the bevel bead. Do not wipe these off since you will be able to remove them later.
Let the silicone dry for at least two hours. Once the silicone is fully cured, peel off any excess with your fingers. You can also use the straight razor or a loose utility knife blade to carefully remove the silicone.
Melamine is used for the inside of the form because concrete does not stick well to it. Even so, it helps to add mineral oil to the inside of the form to help the form and the cured concrete to release from each other. Apply the oil liberally with cotton rags but do not allow the oil to pool up.
Put on latex gloves and breathing protection. Cut open the bag of concrete and pour it into the mixing tub. Mix in the amount of water as recommended by the manufacturer. With the hoe, mix the concrete and water.
Pour the concrete into the form. Avoid the center sink cut-out; this does not receive concrete. Push the concrete around the form by hand, making sure that it reaches all edges and corners. Use the paint roller to push the concrete around and downward. Pour the concrete up only halfway for now.
Vibrating the concrete form eliminates holes and other voids, especially those that develop on the bottom of the form and on the edges. Tapping the form with a rubber mallet helps to settle the concrete. If you have any type of vibrating tool such as a sander or a hammer drill, you can use these, too.
Have one person continue to add mixed concrete on top of the rebar, as the other person vibrates the form. Once the concrete reaches the top of the form, use a scrap piece of two-by-four to screed off the top of the concrete.
Lightly mist the concrete with water from the spray bottle, then cover it with sheet plastic. Keep it out of the sun to slow the curing process. Concrete that dries quickly is more likely to crack and break. Let the concrete cure for at least three days. Keep the concrete lightly damp during this process.
Use the drill to remove the screws that hold the form together. If you can, pull the sidewalls off of the vanity top by hand. If you cannot, lightly tap it off with a rubber mallet. With a helper, turn the concrete vanity top over with the bottom of the form still attached. Pry the form off of the top of the vanity top.
Sand the top of the concrete vanity top with the orbital sander. Work up to a sandpaper grit of #320. If, along the way, you encounter voids, fill them in with a mixture of Portland cement and acrylic fortifier.
Well, its no secretif youve been following me for any time at all, you probably know by now that Im a wee bit obsessed with concrete. Its so great and one of my favorite projects Ive done with concrete is my vanity top back when I did redid our hall bath last fall. It was such an easy project and really gave us the feel we wanted in the new bathroom. Concrete is such a fun and affordable medium to work with. So, lets talk about this concrete vanity top.
I cut the plywood to the size I wanted to top to be and then added sides to hold the concrete. I just screwed the sides on. This top is about 3/4 inch thick. Youll want the sides to stick up as thick as you are going to want the vanity to be. Make sure not to glue or use any sort of permeant bond on the sides we will be taking it off later.
Now, here is where it gets a bit different from my other tables. We are going to need holes for the plumbing. The sink that you are going to use should be bought first, and it should come with templates for the holes. I decided on a pedestal style sink, so the cutouts wont have to be as big as if I had bought a sink that was drop-in style, for those I would need a much bigger cutout. Either way, I built a little square out of scraps for underneath the sink. I found and marked the exact spot I wanted it to go.
Sort of the same thing with the faucet. Whatever faucet you buy should have a template with it. Almost every faucet would have either one or three inputs for plumbing. The faucet I picked out had one, so I only needed one spot for a pipe. I used a piece of PVC piping and just used the template to find the size I needed. Make sure their is enough room for the pipe, but not to much that its going to peek out from under the faucet cover.
Now that you have the form all set up and the cutouts where you need them, youll want to use waterproof silicone to seal up all the cracks. Make sure to hit around the the edges of the cutouts as well. Now, things are going to get messy. I covered my garage work table with heavy duty plastic and set the form on top. You will want to get underneath and all the way around later, so make sure its on some sort of surface that you can work around.
I grabbed some Quikrete cementcolor because I wanted it to be a dark gray color. I used charcoal gray. This is important you want to add the color to the water before the concrete. Otherwise youll end up with streaks. Go ahead and ask me how I know
So, when I made this I didnt know Quikrete made a mix designed for concrete and countertops. I used the concrete and countertop mix on my friends concrete dining table and it worked fabulous. If you dont have access to the concrete and countertop mix, or want to save a little money, use regular concrete and you can sift out the larger pieces of aggregate.
Now its time to pour the concrete into the form. Youll also need to add any rebar and wire mesh in now. Adding this extra strengthit will help hold it up in case it ever wants to crack. Make sure the supports are not sticking up out of the concrete anywhere when you get it filled.
After you get it filled up, take a 24 and, in a zig-zag pattern, smooth the top out by running the 24 across the top and smoothing it out. Next, take a hammer or something that vibrates (like a sander) and hit the sides and underneath for a while to get out any air bubbles and to settle the concrete down. Then take a trowel and get it as smooth as possible.
Now its time to remove the form. Unscrew the sides and try to slowly pull it off. I used a flat surface trowel to get it to pop off and slowly work it away from the concrete being careful not to chip it. Once the form is off, use your sander again to work down and edges and get it how you want it.
Make sure and clean up any dust and take your time to really make sure its clean. Then seal it with a concrete sealer and then use the Polycrylic to finish it off. I used about 3 coats of Polycrylic after the sealant.
I brought it in and placed it on top of the vanity I built. Then I placed the sink on top of the concrete and used plumbers putty to attach it to the slab. I attached the faucet from underneath and used silicone around the edge of the top of the faucet.
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The addition of mirrors in your home or business helps to add the illusion of space. They also provide the luxury look to the area of any location to check on appearances swiftly. There are several different types of mirror options available to select from Fab Glass and Mirror. The addition of lighting with a mirror gives a pleasing aura and the ability to see detail when rooms are darker than normal. So LED Mirrors considered as best interior option to any residential and commercial place. Here are a few of the most frequently desired mirrors to consider when selecting one for your own personal space.
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When shopping for LED lighted wall mirrors be sure to measure the space you have available and whether you want multiple mirrors for more than one sink or if you are simply looking for a wall mounted LED mirror that covers an entire space above your bathroom countertops. LED wall mirrors often have the option of selecting bulbs which have been proven to last longer than traditional lighting while also consuming less energy altogether, helping to assist in lowering electric bills each month.
A lighted bathroom wall mirrorwith hooks is an ideal choice if you are working with a small space but want a change from traditional mirrors. Lighted mirrors using LED lights give a bathroom a center focal point while also incorporating a sleek and chic look, regardless of the size and layout of your bathroom lighted vanity. Whether you are seeking a basic shape or want to add a long, rounded rectangular mirror to your bathroom, we have a wide variety of options and size specifications to choose from before you begin remodeling your bathroom. With a simple addition of a new LED mirror, transform any bathroom into a luxurious and updated space in any area of your home.
Since the turn of the century concrete has played an important role in our engineering of everyday life. Structurally it is the strongest, most versatile compound known in the construction world today. Now, modern concrete can be used to create soft warm, versatile, surfaces including sinks or vanities perfect for your next bathroom remodel.
Concrete countertops and sinks provide a unique and modern pallet for any design savvy homeowner. One-of-a-kind bath and concrete sink vanities are customized for the perfect size and fit. From ultra modern to cozy country, concrete can achieve the natural look and feel you want for your new home or bathroom remodel.
We believe that concrete offers the highest quality finish to a modern space. It's one of the most durable and beautiful surfaces one can have in your bathroom, kitchen or powder room. We make adding these sinks effortless.The first thing that you will want to do is decide what type of sink and style is perfect for you.
Floating sinks are easiest to install with new construction or a full remodel, floating sinks are built into the wall in a fixed position with seamless integration into the counter and vanity. Open shelving can be installed for extra storage under the main counter.
Pedestal Sinks are freestanding handcrafted frames that support the sink and vanity. Open frame or box style pedestals are fantastic because they have a simple custom frame made of wood and metal that is freestanding and easily installed.
Cabinet sinks rest directly on top of a grounded cabinet base in a fixed position. This sink affords you cabinets and drawers for fashionable and discreet storage. Many standard store bought cabinets can be enhanced with a custom concrete top of your design.
Trueform is the premiere North American fabricator of custom concrete sinks & vanities. Whether you are a designer, architect or homeowner, we are ready to take your concrete sink idea to the next level. All of our pieces are hand-crafted specifically for you using the highest quality materials and state-of-the-art processes - right here in the USA.
It all begins with an idea. You determine the color, dimensions, basin style, apron thickness, finish, style of your sink as well as any other functional or aesthetic attributes, and submit to us. If you're unsure and need guidance, just give us a call. This info will be essential in order for us to provide an accurate quote.
At this point you either submit plans (drawings, CAD File, etc.) or give us a call. We will discuss the scope and timing of your project and offer whatever assistance we can. Trueform will help set you up for success. Once details are finalized, the contract is created and signed and we are ready to go.
Trueform begins the complex fabrication process. This is all done by hand via skilled craftsmen in our NJ facility. Your sink is cast, cured, processed, and then coated with our proprietary TRUESEAL technology.
This is an integrated sink & countertop combo that mounts directly to a wall using our Brackets, Carriers or Floating Sink Kits. They can be mounted to stud walls (wood & steel) and masonry walls (CMU, concrete, etc.). We have made wall-mount sinks as small as 14" and as large as 14-feet. Most are ADA compliant.
This is an integrated sink & countertop combo that is designed to rest on a surface - typically a vanity cabinet. You provide the cabinet dimensions/specs and we will co-design a sink that fits perfectly.
Trueform is a single-source fabricator of complete vanities - meaning we can deliver both a top and a base. We can easily modify one our signature products to meet your requirements, or we can create something entirely original for you.
Vessel sinks also rests on surfaces (countertops), except that they represent only the basin portion of the sink. Vessels can be round, rectangular or other shapes, and can be designed for single or multiple users.
When it comes to options for basin shape, style and size, nothing beats concrete. Trueform offers a number of popular readymade sink basin shapes & sizes - ranging from 14" to over 120" long. Using readymade basin molds is the quicker and more cost-effective approach when designing your custom sink.
Whether you opt for something functional & utilitarian or something completely radical (like the basin of the Canyon Sink, pictured here), we can bring your idea to life. CNC-routering, 3D printing and fabric-forming are just a few of the ways we can deliver what you need.
As digital screens display color differently, we strongly recommend using actual concrete samples prior to making your decision. This will ensure you have the most accurate representation of the finished product.
Concrete is all about versatility. We can color-match nearly any Benjamin Moore swatch - including the freshest tones of the latest trends. Reach out at 888-474-7977 to learn more or purchase a custom sample.
With 14 years of experience producing thousands of sinks by hand, Trueform Concrete is a leader in the fabrication of build-to-spec concrete sinks for residential and commercial lavatories. We take a great deal of pride in our work and have collaborated with architects, designers, and homeowners on concrete projects across the nation.
Having played a major role in the advent of civilization, concrete continues to this day to be one of the most dynamic and useful substances we are aware of. It can be cast into nearly any shape - in nearly any color - and routinely finds its way into architectural features for residential, commercial, hospitality and recreational settings around the world.
Our mission is to champion concrete as the ultimate material for creative expression. We express this through signature product lines as well as built-to-spec concrete pieces for clients around the globe. Since our inception, we have worked alongside thousands of architects, designers and homeowners to create one-of-a-kind sinks, tables, reception desks and other objects. Respect for the craft and attention to detail is our legacy. All of our pieces are handmade right here in the USA.
We embrace concrete as the ultimate material for creative expression. To that end, we act as creative enablers employing concrete to realize the ideas and visions of our clients. Through a combination of high-quality materials, forward processes, and talent, we design and build objects that inspire those who utilize them and elevate the spaces they inhabit.
Having opened our doors in 2006, we have worked alongside some of the brightest architects, designers and homeowners to fulfill thousands of build-to-spec sinks, tables, reception desks and other architectural features. Concrete is what we do.
Elevate your home or commercial space with build-to-spec concrete countertops handmade in the USA. Offering an infinite theater of colors, shapes and custom features, our surfaces are tailored precisely to your needs and embody the exquisite craft that is the hallmark of our brand.
All things made begin as ideas. We can translate your ideas into the physical realm. If you're considering a concrete project, give us a call. We're happy to discuss how concrete can solve your aesthetic or functional needs.
Whether you are looking to specify our products or are just eager to gain an understanding of how concrete can serve your project, we have a handful of tools that can help. Click on any of the links below to view or learn more.
Its an honor to have been selected for inclusion in Interior Design Home Magazines Best of Kitchen & Bath 2020 publication. The concrete Canyon Sink seems to have made an impression (pgs. 64-65). Click image to view.
This year at KBIS 2020,the Interior Design magazine crew stopped by our booth to film and interview about the Canyon Sink - one of our favorite collaborations and one with the Dunsmuir Institute Architects. Check out the video they produced.
Its on! While we are no strangers to sinks, this will be our rst time exhibiting at a KBIS Conference. If youre at the show, stop by the booth and meet some of the members of our team. Wed love to chat.
Cement has been a staple in industrial style for a long time because it makes up the building blocks of factory lofts and high-rise buildings. In design, cement-look tile is used to create the atmospheric, urban look that defines the industrial style.
Cement-look tile is surprisingly versatile because it can be put in different looks! You can still achieve a modern or industrial look with cement-look tile, and it also can go in the farmhouse or bohemian look, or you can even put cement-look tile in a contemporary look with a twist! Cement-look tile can be laid down with coordinating grout, or with a darker grout to bring out the design of the tile. Put it down in the classic pattern, or install your cement-look tile in a herringbone pattern.
You can get cement-look tile in ceramic or in porcelain. Ceramic tile is great for backsplashes and flooring in laundry rooms, kitchens, living rooms, and more. Cement-look porcelain tile is durable and can be used in heat-sensitive areas, so you can even put cement-look porcelain tile around a fireplace or outdoors!