Advertiser Disclosure: The credit card and banking offers that appear on this site are from credit card companies and banks from which MoneyCrashers.com receives compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site, including, for example, the order in which they appear on category pages. MoneyCrashers.com does not include all banks, credit card companies or all available credit card offers, although best efforts are made to include a comprehensive list of offers regardless of compensation. Advertiser partners include American Express, Chase, U.S. Bank, and Barclaycard, among others.
Improving and maintaining these rights-of-way is a necessary but oft-overlooked cost of homeownership. And its not a trivial expense. The average asphalt driveway costs about $4,400 to install, according to HomeAdvisor. Periodic resealing costs $400 a pop, on average. Though theyre more durable, concrete driveways are even pricier to install.
Dont spring for an asphalt or concrete driveway without first considering a cheaper option: aggregate. Aggregate is a catchall term for crushed or broken rock and mineral matter, from coarse stone to fine sand. You know the aggregate used on residential driveways as gravel.
For less than a tenth of the cost of the typical asphalt driveway, this year, my wife and I got ourselves an attractive, completely functional gravel driveway that should last years with minimal upkeep. If you get going today, you too could be the proud owner of a beautiful gravel driveway by next week.
Depending on the gravels quality, the amount of preparation required, and other site-specific factors, your driveway could cost anywhere between $0.50 and $4 per square foot. (Ours came out to just over $0.50 per square foot.)
By contrast, asphalt requires resealing every three to five years, depending on climate and intensity of use. Thats a $400-per-job investment, on average, and more for longer driveways. Its a messy job too one best left to the professionals.
In theory, gravel lasts indefinitely. In practice, it washes away or subsides enough to require periodic resurfacing. But a level, well-maintained gravel driveway can last decades without a complete overhaul. When the time does finally come, its a lot cheaper.
Gravels aesthetic is more utilitarian than arresting, but thats not necessarily a bad thing. Depending on the color and texture, gravel blends well with a wide variety of home styles, exterior colors, and landscaping elements from xeriscapingand other native landscapes to formal gardens.
Gravel is easy to install on your own. If you have a commercial drivers license, you can complete the entire project without any outside help. If not, the only professional you need toretain is the person who drives the gravel truck up your driveway.
Paving an asphalt or concrete driveway is technically possible without professional help. But its a far more complex, risky affair. I certainly wouldnt try it, nor would I recommend it to anyone without proper training.
Gravel lacks the aesthetic appeal of paving stones and the crisp, uniform appearance of asphalt and concrete. Its cheap, and it looks it. If youre looking to improve your homes curb appeal, and especially if youre preparing to list your house for sale, a more expensive option may be a worthwhile investment.
If you live in an upscale community or belong to a homeowners association, your driveway project may be restricted or stymied altogether by legally enforceable covenants (regulations). Your HOAs bylaws might mandate a certain type of driveway surface, for instance say, black asphalt or stone pavers. Before you spend any money on your gravel driveway project, make sure it wont go to waste.
Dump trucks are big. When they dump their loads, they get even bigger. Actually, they get taller their beds lift up to create a slope down which whatever theyre carrying can slide. With its tailgate fully engaged, the typical dump truck grows to 16 feet tall. Thats level with your second-story windows.
On narrow driveways with side or overhead obstructions, taking a gravel delivery is harder than it should be. This is common in densely built cities, where driveways directly abut houses and arent built for anything wider than a standard passenger car. Overhanging eaves further complicate matters a driveway thats wide enough to handle a dump truck at ground level might not have enough clearance 10 or 15 feet overhead.
If you have a narrow lot, youll likely have to block off a portion of your street and get the gravel dumped there. That may require you to pull a permit (or at least notify your municipal government) and will definitely create a lot more work for you, since youll need to schlep the gravel up to where its actually needed.
Gravel driveways are difficult to shovel by hand and even tougher to plow. Weve given up trying to clear our gravel driveway completely. I basically scrape as much snow as I can off the top and trust our newish tire treads to claw their way up the slope.
Our driveway is short, and its slope is brief enough that we can power our way up without much trouble. Homeowners with longer, steeper driveways arent so lucky. If springing for asphalt means youll actually be able to make it up your hill in the winter, it might be worth the added investment.
Careful grading can keep your gravel driveway relatively even for a while, but the killer combination of gravity and heavy use will win out eventually. Wheels inevitably produce ruts and bumps, which get ever sloppier over the years as the driveways gravel thins.
Before we resurfaced it, our gravel driveway had two deep, parallel scores left by thousands of vehicle transits. The thin gravel cover wasnt adequate to keep those scores mud-free after rains. In winter, theyd fill with ice and snow for months on end, and take weeks to drain following the spring thaw. I cant tell you how sick we got of dodging mud puddles, and how happy we are with our fresh, reasonably clean gravel surface today.
Working quickly but carefully together, my wife and I were able to complete our single-layer project in about three hours, including frequent rest breaks. (Leveling gravel is surprisingly hard work.) But our driveway is shorter than most.
Based on our experience, Id estimate that dumping and leveling a single gravel layer takes approximately one hour per 15 linear feet. If you need two or more layers, youll need to double (or triple) your time allotment and wait at least a few days between blocks. And, if youre planning to install a drainage system to divert runoff, youll need to plan for at least an additional hour per 15 linear feet.
This 1988 U.S. Geological Survey report provides an exhaustive overview of the United States aggregate resources. As you can see from the map on page 10, limestone is the countrys most common aggregate material, followed closely by sandstone, granite, and trap rock.
My wife and I live in Minneapolis-St. Paul, near the border between regions 3 and 4 in the USGS map. Our aggregate mix here in Minnesota is pretty representative of whats available across a broad swathe of the United States, but most of our neighbors driveways are crushed limestone. After briefly researching readily available alternatives, we settled on that.
This is a rundown of the most common types of driveway aggregate in our area. Pricing is provided by Midwest Asphalt Corporation and current as of early 2016. (We used another company for our driveway project.) Use it as a general guide for your research and budgeting, but always default to local companies for accurate pricing and availability:
Professional landscaping companies may offer costlier, more attractive types of gravel not included on this list. And remember that you may have access to more novel regional options for instance, crushed shell aggregates in some coastal areas.
When you own a detached single-family or multiunit house, your property maintenance responsibilities dont end at your threshold. Youre not just the king or queen of your personal castle youre also lord of the outdoor domain within your property lines. Installing a gravel (or asphalt, concrete, or stone) driveway is just one of the many projects youre likely to tackle outside the walls of your house during your tenure as a homeowner.
The content on MoneyCrashers.com is for informational and educational purposes only and should not be construed as professional financial advice. Should you need such advice, consult a licensed financial or tax advisor. References to products, offers, and rates from third party sites often change. While we do our best to keep these updated, numbers stated on this site may differ from actual numbers. We may have financial relationships with some of the companies mentioned on this website. Among other things, we may receive free products, services, and/or monetary compensation in exchange for featured placement of sponsored products or services. We strive to write accurate and genuine reviews and articles, and all views and opinions expressed are solely those of the authors.
Wondering which grade of crushed limestone gravel is best for your driveway or household project? Check out the residential projects below and our guide to which types of Port Aggregate limestone aggregates are best-suited to your needs.
For garden or footpaths around your property, our pea gravel is finely crushed and feels pleasant underfoot. It comes in a soft blend of tan shades that make it a smart accent to an outdoor living space. We also recommend a larger grade of crushed limestone #57G is a good option as a base layer for walkways or landscaping filler around paving stones.
This guide introduced you to just some of the aggregates we have available. To find out more, visit the limestone page on the website or, to get expert advice on which product best meets your needs and vision, contact a member of our sales team.
Cracks, erosion, and stains on concrete surfaces are not only unsightly, but they also compromise the integrity of the concrete and reduce its longevity. When properly cared for, exterior concrete surfaces (such as driveways andRead more
Regularly sealing concrete maintains its longevity and durability for decades to come. Exterior surfaces need protection from the extreme temperatures, inclement weather, heavy impacts, or harsh abrasion. Interior surfaces benefit from sealants that offer protectionRead more
Arming yourself with a list of questions and a little prior knowledge goes a long way when hiring a driveway contractor or expert of any kind. If youre planning a concrete driveway project, before youRead more
When choosing what surface material is best for a driveway project, there are a few major advantages and disadvantages of asphalt and concrete to consider. Taking into account cost, longevity, design and climate will helpRead more
Just like when you visit a doctor to address an illness, its important to have a list of questions ready when selecting a concrete contractor. Asking carefully chosen questions helps ensure that the contractor youRead more
If youre about to embark on a concrete driveway project, its likely you have plenty of questions that need answering. If youve never poured concrete or hired a concrete contractor, you may not even knowRead more
The drab old gray of plain concrete is definitely a thing of the past. From backyard patios to kitchen counter tops to foyers and lobbies, modern colored concrete often boasts distinctive designs and patterns orRead more
Crushed stone comes from large rock formations that are crushed down to various sizes or grades by a machine. Many people consider crushed rock to be equivalent to gravel. However, crushed rock is actually quite different. See why more homeowners are choosing crushed stone and its associated costs.
When it comes to the cost of crushed stone, it will depend on pretty much three factors: Supplier, type and how much you purchase. More often than not, that final choice will determine your crushed stone prices per ton.
As you saw above, there is quite a range for the price of crushed rock. Thats because there are plenty of cost factors beyond the three mentioned above. Knowing what can increase or decrease your final crushed rock cost will certainly curb your landscaping, patio or walkway budget.
Were going to jump into crushed stone types later on, but there are nine dominate materials on the market. Of course, each brings it own set of benefits and drawbacks. Therefore, they each bring along different price points. If you want to decrease costs, pick common crushed stones in your region. The rarer the material, the more expensive your crushed stone cost per ton will be.
In addition to size, the other factor of weight is how much you need. Certain landscaping projects, like a long walkway, require more crushed stone than others (small patio enhancement). But beyond the physical amount you purchase, your final design will affect the cost. Complex stone or project designs will undoubtedly raise your costs.
Sadly, all nine crushed rock types are not readily available across the county. Just like paying for a package, the farther it has to travel, the more expensive it will be. As such, it pays to contact a local landscaper to determine what crushed stone types are sold near you!
If youre looking to complete a very small landscaping project, you can probably transport the crushed rock yourself. However, larger projects or stone coming across the country require professional rock delivery. Just like finding a reliable landscaper, it pays to research local landscaping delivery companies and compare prices.
There is no one size fits all type of crushed stone. In addition to durability and cost, every type of crushed stone comes in difference sizes and colors. Luckily, the wide range of crushed rock materials means no homeowner should settle with any landscaping project.
Construction industries and homeowners rely on crushed stone for a wide array of purposes. Besides being extremely versatile, crushed stone adds a quaint and rustic look to any landscape and is available in many colors and sizes to create a particular look. The natural beauty of crushed stone blends in very well with plants and trees, creating a charming balance to your property.
There are more than a dozen sizes of crushed rock to choose from that range in size from dust screenings to 10 inches in diameter and are available by ton or by yard, which is equivalent to 1.4 tons. The most common sizes for crushed stone are:
The most popular size of crushed stone among homeowners is known as #57 and is 3/4 inches in size. This crushed stone helps with drainage and is found in many decorative colors and types of rock. Its commonly recommended for driveways, general landscaping applications, shrub beds and walkways. It also comes in white marble chips, brick chips, red rock and limestone.
White marble, which is available in 1/4 and 1/2 inch sizes, serves best in gardens, fountains and container plants. Washed clean stone is much smaller at 1/4 inches in size and serves well to decorate landscaping around trees, in walkways and in playgrounds.
Crushed stone is used in many building materials. Screenings or dust particles are used for concrete block manufacturing. This particular crushed rock is known as #10. Crushed rock #67 ranges in size from 3/4 inches to a size of fine particles and is used as a slab, road and fill base. Another crushed stone is #411, which is a mixture of #57 stone and stone dust. This mixture is used as a base for retaining walls, roads and for patching holes in pavement. Mixing in dust with the larger stone improves its ability to settle.
Crushed stone that ranges from 1 to 2 inches in diameter is used for drainage solutions, in dry wells, in septic systems and as ballast for railroad tracks. It consists of trap rock, granite, limestone and gneiss and is used to produce cement, lime and riprap stone. It is known as #3.
Washed clean stone is 1/4 inch in size. This #5 concrete is added into ready-mix concrete and is used in various drainage applications and as a base for road and pavers. White limestone, which is 3/8 inches in size, is used as a roofing stone for its excellent reflective values.
Another crushed stone variety is the riprap stone, which measures 3 1/2 inches in diameter and serves well as a soil stabilizer, as a backing for stone walls and retaining wells. Graded surge crushed stone that is 4 to 10 inches in diameter is an erosion controller like riprap and is also used in creek banks and large storm drain lines.
Crushed stone is an excellent landscaping addition for homeowners who live in dry regions, as it works like mulch to retain moisture. In wet regions, crushed stone can be used to relieve water build-up while keeping the soil in place.
Homeowners can easily work with crushed stone to create landscaping projects. This material can quickly transform a backyard into a nice patio, garden or walkway and is available in eye-catching colors of white, pink, cream, gold, brown and tan. Crushed stone 3/8 inches in diameter is an excellent groundcover that won't spill over into the yard. Furthermore, when used in driveways, crushed stone will form a surface that is nearly as hard as asphalt once its compacted, and it promotes drainage by keeping mud and excess water down.
Because crushed rock is loose, it must be regularly maintained. As a material for driveways and walkways, it can easily become displaced, which you have to replenish from time to time. Weeding will have to be done where crushed stone is used to keep the area looking clean and neat.
Some home improvement websites offer a calculator that helps buyers conveniently estimate the exact amount of crushed rock youll need for your landscaping project. For example, one ton of #57 crushed stone would cover 150 square feet with a depth of 2 inches. When ordering larger or smaller crushed rocks, the coverage will change.
More often than not, most homeowners purchase their crushed stone from large retailers such as The Home Depot or Lowes. While this is certainly acceptable for smaller crushed rock projects, there are a few reasons to strongly reconsider this decision.
First and foremost, there is an upcharge. These stores do not manufacture crushed stone themselves. They buy it from third parties. To make a profit, they have to charge you more than what they bought it for. Therefore, you would pay less if you bought it straight from a crushed stone manufacturer.
Next, more often than not, you cant buy crushed stone in bulk from your local retailer. This poses a problem when it comes to driveways and or larger crushed rock projects. Unless you pay for professional delivery, moving all those 5 lb. bags wont be quick or easy.
Adding crushed stone as a walkway or an added landscape feature is not a difficult project. More often than not, you have to excavate the land, add some coarse sand or landscape gravel and then place the crushed stone how you wish. However, as you might expect, the project is much more time consuming when installing a crushed stone driveway. Its not hard, but it does require a lot of elbow grease. If you dont have the time (one full day) or the manpower to add a crushed stone driveway, we recommend contacting a landscaping pro near you.
Whether for a walkway, driveway, drainage or just a nice border around a few plants, crushed rock will certainly upgrade your homes exterior. If youre considering this simple upgrade, let us help you find a local landscaping professional.
So, whether youre a seasoned DIYer or just a homeowner looking to prep the site for your new shed, this guide should give you all the info you need to get the job done. Plus, well throw in some tips and tricks weve learned ourselves over the years as professional gravel shed foundation installers.
If youre reading this article, youre most likely set on building/installing a gravel shed foundation. If not, here are a few more reasons why it should be your shed foundation of choice. (If you prefer, check out our video guide to installing your gravel shed foundation.)
Second, it supports your shed much better than concrete piers or shed foundation blocks. A gravel shed foundation distributes the weight of the shed evenly across all parts of the frame, instead of resting on only a few points with gaps in between. Thats especially important if you plan to store heavy equipment or a vehicle in your shed.
Anyone with at least intermediate construction/tools skills can handle installing a gravel shed pad. Plus, theres no need to get a concrete truck in your yard to pour this foundation! You can haul all your supplies in with a wheelbarrow and use hand tools to do the work. (Well be honest, though, power tools will really speed up the process and save some sweating!)
For a durable foundation that will support your shed adequately, its hard to find a better priced option than a gravel pad. Both materials and labor will be less expensive than for a similar foundation built from concrete. If youd like more info, check out our article on the pros and cons of concrete vs gravel shed foundations.
Theres a number of factors that go into selecting the best site for your shed and its foundation. There might be one really obvious location on your property, but if not, here are some factors to consider:
If possible, your shed should be at the highest spot in your yard. Thatll keep water draining away from the shed and everything inside it. If it doesnt make sense to put your shed at the highest spot in the yard, choose another location where water can drain away. Youll avoid flooding your shed and discourage rot, mold, and mildew from taking over.
With drainage in mind, it might be tempting to choose a site on the side of a hill. Dont do it! (At least if you can help it.) Keep in mind that the steeper the slope you build on, the more youll have to dig out/build up to make your shed foundation level. A gentle slope is better; an almost level site is best.
Keep your shed foundation away from areas where theres been any digging/excavation in recent years. You dont want to install your foundation only to have it start settling. This is especially important if your home was recently built; make sure you dont pick a spot that was excavated during construction and just recently backfilled.
If your shed will have windows, it doesnt make sense to put it in a shaded area. Think about where the shadow of your house will fall, as well as the shadows of any trees or woods around your property. Plus, more sunlight reduces the risk of algae or mildew taking up residence in/on your shed.
Heres a fact: if you stick a shovel into a gas or electric line, your day is going to get a LOT more complicated. When planning where to put youre shed foundations, make sure you know exactly where your utility lines are. You probably wont need to dig that deep for a shed foundation, but the stakes that fasten the perimeter lumber could go deep enough to hit something. Its always better to be safe than sorry!
811 is the nationally designated phone number for requesting utility companies to mark lines on your property. Its a completely free service to you as a homeowner, so by all means, take advantage of it! Someone once said: Call 811 now so you dont have to call 911 later! Photo: Pepco
Many townships and boroughs have specific regulations which govern where outbuildings can be placed on a property and what percentage of the property or yard those buildings may cover. Be sure to research your local ordinances, zoning regulations, and/or building codes to make sure youre in compliance. Specifically check:
If you live in an area that experiences significant levels of frost during cold months, there may be regulations regarding exactly what type of foundation and/or footings your shed will need. Depending on the type/use of your shed, this may preclude you from installing a gravel shed foundation.
One option (which weve done numerous times for past customers) is to install concrete footing piers at each corner of the shed foundation and then build a gravel shed foundation around the piers at the same height. This option offers the stability of concrete footers with the drainage of a gravel foundation.
Check first with your township/municipality to see what they require. If youre buying a prefab shed, check with the shed company to see what anchoring system they offer or recommend that would meet local requirements.
This one is a no-brainer. Think about the primary use for your shed and plan accordingly. If itll be for your garden tools, put it nearthe garden! If its for household items, put it close to the back door. You get the idea
Finally, think about the aesthetics of your property. Where will your new shed look the best? Depending on how much effort is going into the exterior of your shed, you may want to place it where it can enhance the curb appeal of your homean extra plus if you hope to sell your property sometime in the near future.
If youre a seasoned DIYer, youll probably have most of these tools on hand already. While every part of the job can be done with handheld tools, there are a few power tools that will make the job much simpler and faster. If you dont own them (or have a friend who does), you can rent them by the day at a fairly reasonable rate. Photos: Home Depot
While a typical straight level is useful for leveling in one direction, a laser level can be extremely useful for finding the overall slope of your gravel shed foundation location. If you dont have your own laser level, you may know a landscaper or contractor who would let you borrow theirs for an hour or two. Just remember to ask nicely!
A mini skid steer will speed the job up A LOT. This is especially true is your gravel shed foundation will be installed on a slope. Mini skid steers can be rented for about $200-$250/day or about $700/week.
To really get your gravel shed foundation compacted well, theres nothing better than a gas-powered vibrating plate compactor. It will not only save you a lot of time with the hand tamper, it will also pack your gravel much tighter and make a firmer base for your shed. You can usually rent a vibratory plate compactor for about $80-$100/day.
Once you have the tools collected, its time to gather (or plan for) the materials youll use to actually build your gravel shed foundation. You may want to do steps 3 and 4 first, in order to get a better idea of how many materials youll need to buy.
Pressure-treated lumber is the material of choice for building the perimeter/retaining walls for your gravel shed foundation. In fact, some municipalities may even require that you use pressure-treated lumber.
When purchasing lumber, choose a size at least 44 or larger and make sure that its not only pressure-treated, but also rated GC (for ground contact). Here at Site Preparations LLC, we use 46 GC pressure-treated lumber for all the gravel shed foundations we install.
Youll use 2 pieces of rebar to stake the perimeter lumber down into the ground. If your perimeter lumber will be built up more than 2 or 3 layers, youll also want some 16 rebar stakes for fastening multiple layers of lumber together.
You can either buy rebar precut at 2 or buy longer pieces (up to 20) and cut them to length yourself with the circular saw and metal-cutting blade. Use hearing protection when cutting metal!Photo: Home Depot
Youll use these to fasten together the corners of your perimeter. Make sure the screws you choose are rated for exterior use and contact with pressure-treated lumber. Screws should have hot dip galvanizing or equivalent coating, like polymer. A bugle head design is ideal for countersinking into the wood. At Site Preparations LLC, we use 4 Grip Rite exterior screws.Photo: Home Depot
Second, it helps to separate the gravel from the dirt beneath it, adding an extra level of stability to the finished foundation. Keep in mind that the fabric you choose will need to be strong enough to support the weight of the gravel and the shed without puncturing.
At Site Preparations LLC, we use a woven stabilization fabric with a Class 3 rating according to the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) M288-17 standards. A woven Class 3 fabric has a tensile strength of 200lbs and a puncture strength of 90lbs and is designed to be used in road construction. Photo: Home Depot
This is going to be the key ingredient of your shed foundation, so make sure you select the right type. There are a few important things to keep in mind when purchasing gravel for installing your shed foundation.
This article is all about GRAVEL shed foundations, but its important to note that were actually referring to CRUSHED STONE. Real gravel (also referred to as river stone) is smooth and rounded on the edges.
DO use crushed stone for your gravel shed foundation. Because it has jagged, uneven edges, it will lock together tightly when compacted and form a firm base for your shed. Photo: Eds Landscaping Supply Inc.
Crushed stone comes in a variety of sizes and types. The best type of crushed stone for a gravel shed foundation is clean, sometimes also referred to as clean stone, washed or #57, depending on the supplier. clean is stone that has been screened through a square screen and has been washed to remove stone dust and other residues.
Its important to buy clean stone for installing a gravel shed foundation. Some people recommend using a crushed stone mixed with stone dust or fines because it packs down harder. (These types of stone are sometimes referred to as crusher run, #411, or #21A, depending on the supplier.)
The problem with using crusher run stone for a gravel shed foundation is that the mixture of stone and dust will pack TOO HARD, preventing water from draining through the shed foundation properly and causing puddling and/or runoff. Crusher run stone is great for uses where it will be driven on (like a driveway), but clean stone is the best for a gravel shed foundation.
Youll want a minimum of 4 of stone at every part of your foundation, so figure accordingly. Take the width and length (in feet) of your foundation and multiply it by the average stone depth. Divide that number by 27 and youll get the cubic yards needed for your pad. For a more in-depth guide, check out our article on how much gravel is needed for a shed foundation.
Its important that the outside edges of your gravel foundation be about 2 longer and wider than the dimensions of your shed. Thats because you should have at least 12 of extra space on each side of your shed to allow for water to drain off properly and protect the bottom of your shed.
To get started, stake two corners of your shed foundation. If your shed will be next to a driveway, a fence, or anything else with a straight edge, youll probably want to mark the first side of the foundation parallel to that. You can then base the rest of your measurements off that straight line.
With two corners marked, you can measure the other side based off of those marks. Once all four corners are marked, take a quick diagonal measurement in each direction to make sure your corners are square. You can fine tune this later when you install the perimeter, but you want to make sure its close before you start digging.
Alternatively, you can use stakes and string to mark the edges. If you do that, its a good idea to keep the stakes out a couple feet from the actual corners (as shown in the diagram) so they dont become loose during digging.
A laser level or laser transit with a receiver is the simplest way to level your site and only requires one person. First, youll want to take a reading at the highest corner of your foundation site. Based on that first corner, you can determine the difference in slope at each of the other corners by measuring how far up the transit rod you need to move the laser receiver. If youre not familiar with using a laser level, you might want to watch a video demo like this one or this one.
This is another simple way to check for level. If you have stakes set up at each corner, simply tie a piece of nylon masons line (or other non-stretchy string) between the stake at the highest corner and the corner you want to measure. Attach a string level to the line and make sure its level. Then, simply measure down from the string at each corner to find the difference in height between those two points.
This method works well if your shed foundation will be relatively small. Find a very straight piece of lumber (a 24 or 26 works well) the length of one edge of your pad location. Lay your level on top of the lumber straightedge to effectively create a much longer level. Place one end at the highest corner of your site. Hold the other end of the straightedge level at the next corner and measure down to the ground to find the height difference between those two corners.
Often, steps 5 and 6 will take place simultaneously. Once you have the site marked off, its time to start digging. How you excavate depends on whether you plan to build up or dig down to make your shed foundation level.
The key consideration is where your door will be placed. Its ideal to get your door as close to ground level as possible. That will allow easy access for people, equipment, and whatever else needs to go in and out of your shed.
If the door will be on the downhill side, youll want to cut away into the slope to create a level area for your shed. This style is best for slight slopes or foundations that meet the edge of a driveway; for steeper slopes, use the combination
In some cases, such as on a very steep slope, you may build up one end of your shed foundation and dig out the other end. Dirt excavated from the uphill side can be spread in front of the foundation on the downhill side to create a dirt ramp up to the door.
Regardless of what type of excavation your shed foundation requires, youll want to start at the lowest side of the site. Move along your marked line and dig away about 2-4 of topsoil in a strip wide enough to lay down your first piece of perimeter lumber.
If youre using 4x6s turned on edge to build the perimeter, digging down 2-4 will allow the first course to stay several inches above ground level. Dirt excavated from the inside of the perimeter can be used later as fill on the outside to bring the lawn up to level with the edge of the foundation.
Youll add each piece of lumber as you excavate and level the spot for it. As you place each piece of lumber in the first course of the perimeter, check to make sure its level. If its slightly off level, you can use your sledgehammer to tap on the high end or add a little dirt back under the low end to correct it.
If youre building up to level, start at the low end again, overlapping the corners of your lumber with the course below (like a log cabin corner). Continue the second course the rest of the way around the perimeter or until it too moves below ground level (at that point youll start the third course).
If youre digging down to level, start the second course stepped back from the first to the point where one end is completely above ground level. Continue the second course the rest of the way around the perimeter or until it too moves below ground level (at which point, youll start the third course). You can cut a 45-degree dog ear on the exposed end of each course of lumber to create a more finished look.
As you add each piece of lumber to the perimeter, use the 4 exterior screws to fasten it to the pieces next to and/or below it. Its especially important to focus on screwing the corners together to keep them tight. Use 6-8 screws per piece of lumber per corner. Additionally, screw each piece of lumber to the course below it with two screws approximately every 2-3. This will assist the rebar stakes in keeping the perimeter from shifting.
If the slope at the site requires one end of your gravel shed foundation to be built up, you may need to add bracing inside to help support it. At Site Preparations LLC, we typically brace shed foundation walls that are 16-20 or higher. The longer the built-up wall is, the more important bracing is.
We use and recommend a style of bracing called a deadman. (Dont ask us where the name came from!) In this design, the deadman (deadmen if theres more than one) are pieces of lumber which are attached perpendicularly to the braced wall. On a built-up foundation, the deadmen are on the inside; on a dug-out foundation, theyre on the outside.
On lower applications, the deadmen may be fastened with screws to another piece of lumber running parallel to the braced wall. On higher walls, the deadmen are actually built into the wall. Either way, use plenty of 4 screws to fasten the ends of the bracing into the wall of the perimeter.
Pound 2 rebar stakes through the perimeter and into the ground. If you didnt buy rebar precut into 2 stakes, you can cut it yourself with your circular saw and a metal-cutting blade. You could also use a reciprocating saw or a grinder. Always wear ear, eye, and hand protection when cutting rebar!
If your foundation perimeter is more than 3 courses high at any point, drill again at every other course of lumber (starting at the 2nd course) and use 16 rebar stakes to fasten higher courses of lumber to the lumber below.
Now that the perimeter is in place, you can finish removing the topsoil and excavate any remaining high spots inside the foundation. Its important that the dirt inside your shed foundation is at least 4 below the top of the lumber perimeter to allow room for the gravel.
If the site is sloped, some people recommend adding perforated drainage pipe at this point to drain water from inside the downhill end of your foundation into the lawn. However, if youre using clean stone as recommended, additional drainage is completely unnecessary since water will drain straight through your foundation and into the ground below. The only time we add drainage is uphill on the outside of a dig-out foundation to channel water around the foundation instead of onto it, but even that scenario is very rare.
Use extra topsoil to fill any gaps between the lawn and the outside of the foundation. If your site is nearly flat, you can use the extra dirt to slope the lawn up to the top of the perimeter. That will make a nice, tight line between your lawn and the edge of the shed foundation. If your site is sloped, use extra dirt to even the grade, especially on the side toward the door.
Make sure all the dirt inside your shed foundation is well-packed so it wont sink over time. Use a tamper if necessary. If youre using heavy equipment, like a mini skid steer, you can use its weight to help pack the dirt.
Once the dirt is level, spread the construction fabric/weed barrier out over the inside of your shed foundation. Fold a few inches of the fabric up the side of the perimeter and use a staple gun or hammer tacker to fasten it.
Pull the construction fabric tight over the dirt as you work your way around the perimeter of the shed foundation. If you added bracing inside your foundation you may need to slit the fabric to fit around it.
Finally, its time for the gravel! Dump the crushed stone inside the completed perimeter and spread it around with a concrete rake. To properly support your shed, its important that there is a minimum of 4 of gravel at every part of your shed foundation.
In addition to a gravel rake, you could also use a straight piece of lumber like a 24 or 26 to create a screed board for leveling the gravel. Simply drag the screed board across surface of the foundation to push gravel from high spots down into low spots.
Weve found it best practice to start about 12 in from the perimeter and work inwards. Use a circular/spiral pattern rather than going back and forth. That will keep everything packed evenly across the entire foundation rather than pushing the gravel to one side.
Once the center is tamped tight, go back to those outside 12 and tamp them as well. This keeps the gravel at the edge packed tight and level between the perimeter and whats already tamped in the center.
Of course, if you decide that installing a gravel shed foundation is more than you want to tackle yourself, you can always hire a gravel shed foundation expert to install it for you. Just make sure the company you choose is familiar with gravel shed foundations specifically.
Hi Herbert, Thanks for your comment! Its important that you get pressure-treated lumber thats rated for ground contact. That being said, it wont rot any faster than a fence, deck, or other structure with posts in the ground.
Hi Matt, Most prefab sheds that include electric have the conduit running out the side above ground, so it often doesnt need to go through the foundation at all. In cases where the conduit does go through the shed foundation, we use an L-shaped piece of conduit with the ends taped off, long enough that the end extends at least 5 above the completed pad. After excavation, we place the conduit so one end is at the proper location relative to the shed and the other exits beneath the lumber perimeter. You can see a photo of a completed pad with conduit here: https://www.siteprep.com/wp-content/uploads/Unorganized/20190404_132334.jpg Hope thats helpful!
This is the best info Ive been able to find online. Thank you. Ive placed the 4x6s. My grade is on a slight slope. If I place the gravel now, one side will be 5 deep and the lower side will be 10 deep. Will that be a problem or should dig out the high side and place the fill on the lower side to produce a constant depth of approximately 7.5?
Hi Robert, its fine the way you have it, as long as theres at least 4 across the entire pad. 3/4 clean stone packs tightly, even when 12-24 deep. Its better to leave the soil undisturbed, as backfill will have a greater chance of settling than the stone itself.
Hi Mike, we tie our corners together with screws and put our first rebar stake in about 12-24 from the corner. It probably wouldnt hurt to add one in the corner, but not really necessary. In fact, you wont get quite the same strength with a hole drilled that close to the end of the lumberits prone to weaken as the lumber ages over the years.
When you start at the lowest point w the timber,and stack each post, do you follow through With each post (on both sides)all the way to the highest point in the ground, or do you cut sections, stacking to the highest point only going as far as the ground allows to the highest point?
Hi Allan, Im not 100% sure what youre asking, but Ill do my best to answer! If you are building the foundation up to level (if the shed door will be at the highest point in the ground) and the first course of lumber moves below ground level as you work toward the highest point, you can simply begin a new course of lumber. If you are digging the foundation out to level (if the shed door will be at the lowest point in the ground) you will need to continue the first course of lumber around the entire foundation. Hope that makes sense!
Hi Murray, we often dig down 2-4 on a level site. That a) leaves a lower step-up to get into your shed and b) eliminates that top layer of topsoil that might be more likely to settle over time. That being said, you may be fine going right over the buzzed lawn if you have a high-quality geotextile. Make sure youre able to get the crushed stone at least 4 deep inside the foundation!
Great video and very well done! Is it fine to notch the timber ends instead of using butt joints? Also, is it ever wise to put gravel or a stone block under the timbers for leveling and drainage or is solid dirt is all you need?
Hi Warren, butt joints on the corners of the shed foundation are fine, but notching them shouldnt hurt if you have the time and expertise to do it! Solid dirt is really all you need under the timber, assuming you remove the top few inches of topsoil.
Terrific vlog. Question: 18 months ago we stripped the topsoil and had a DG (decomposed granite) landscape installed. They dug out 4-5 of soil, installed 2 of 2-2.5 gravel, 2 of 3/8 clean gravel, and topped with DG. Now Id love to have a wooden shed installed. Hubby says if installed directly on top, itll sink. I think that its weight distribution over the gravel/DG substrate will support it just fine. Were in SoCal, and get very little rain. Thoughts?
Hi JJ, We dont really work with DG, plus were on the east coast where the climate is quite a bit different, so its hard for us to give a definitive answer. That being said, we really dont like putting sheds on bases with stone smaller than 1/2 as it doesnt lock together as tightly and can be more prone to shifting over time. If you want a compromise to firm your landscaping up a bit, you could think about removing just the DG and 3/8 stone and adding several inches of 3/4 clean over the larger gravel base. As you mentioned, it is a different climate, so we cant say for sureand we definitely arent trying to take sides between you and the husband! ;D Hope these ideas are helpful in your discussions. Good luck!
Hi, I live near salt lake city, Utah where frost heave could be an issue, but would rather do a gravel base for a 1010 shed if its possible. Any thoughts? There are basically no requirements to make things up to code when I checked locally since they dont regulate anything less than 200 sq ft. Just dont want my shed to get too lopsided and not be able to open the door
Hi Trent, we build many/most of our shed foundations in frost-prone areas (PA, NJ, NY, MD, etc) and have found this foundation style to quite durable in both hot and cold conditions. In our opinion, it should not be an issue!
Site Prep crew Exceptional content with fantastic detail. Cant thank you enough for sharing your expertise with all us desperate DIYers these days! Im curious about a couple of things. I have a somewhat gradual sloping grade.. Thinking roughly 8-12 total that I intend to excavate maybe no more than a 3rd or so and take the combination approach, where I build up a little and dig out. The reason for this is because I would prefer not to be dependent on the current grade and surrounding swell in any way, thus I figured it most beneficial to be off grade and off slope. If I can better explain what Im envisioning, an example you previously posted is the closest Ive seen to what I have in mind > [Link deleted] All that aside- I have a novice question of joining your butts to extend and reach length for a single-side of your perimeter, I dont see where you speak to this in your guide and photos would suggest youre literally just butting the two timber ends and presumably using your 4 screws drilled at an angle to attach and extend (as if one solid length in lumber) Is this accurate? Would you had any thoughts on whether to also affix using something like the Simpson Strong Tie HRS416Z Straps? Next question, in your example photo I relinked above, it looks like you installed a few inward facing deadmen braces in the front despite being such a short wall, am I seeing that right and if so, is it because its exposed and theres no outward facing reinforcement behind? Curious if I should consider doing the same.. As a final two questions, any thoughts on lining the 2-4 trench for the first course with the stabilization fabric? Curious if it could improve longevity and increase age against rot. Lastly, I just wanted to confirm you would not stack these courses in the traditional way of a retaining wall, in other words there is no need to stagger or offset each course beyond the last as you build up? Thanks again!
Hi Jimmy, Glad you found the content helpful! Those are several good questions; well take them one by one. (By the way, it seems the link you shared was removed somehow, so we werent able to see which job you were referring to.) 1. Lumber butt joints Youre correct, we usually use 4 galvanized screws at an angle to join the ends of the lumber together. Plus, the rebar stakes also help to keep them in place. The Simpson strong-ties you refer to might be overkill but certainly wont hurt if you do decide to add them. 2. Bracing We usually add bracing on any walls over 16. With a deadman brace, you always add it to the inside of the exposed wall. The exact bracing scheme varies with each site; you can see examples of different bracing layouts here and here. 3. Adding fabric under the perimeter The stabilization fabric we use is porous, so it wont do much to protect the lumber from moisture. Again, its probably overkill but wont hurt if you decide to add it under the lumber. 4. Offset courses of lumber We actually do offset each course of lumber, though only by a fraction of an inch on each course. If you offset them by too much, it will cause issues when you go to drill and stake the perimeter. Heres one example where its a bit easier to see the combined offset on a higher wall. Hope those answers are helpful! You may find it helpful to look through our job portfolio to see examples of a lot of different site/foundation configurations.
Hello, what a great post!!! I have had a Shed for 17 years and all I did was level the area, and put down pea gravel. The shed is 1210 with 44 treated posts attached to the bottom of the shed. I am assuming the shed floor is connected to the 44. I have had no problem with it. Did I get lucky? I am planning on getting my shed moved closer to the house and wondering if I should build the foundation. What is your opinion? Thank you
Hi Mark, Lucky might be a strong word, but you definitely faired better than some folks do! A good foundation makes the biggest difference as sheds become older. With your shed being 17 years old now, you may want to put a more durable foundation under it when you move it. Hope the shed moving project goes well!
Hi there, Great article! Thank you for posting. I wish I would have stumbled across this sooner but I had not originally planned on doing just a gravel base to begin with. I was considering adding a concrete top layer to it. But, Ive already constructed what I hope is a sturdy gravel base but just wanted some reassurance, if possible. As after reading your article, I think it will do just fine. I used concrete blocks for the perimeter (laid them down on a bed of gravel as well to help with leveling and prevent any shifting) and dug the interior to a 4 inch depth and filled it with the gravel you mentioned. I also used rebar along the perimeter and concreted it in. However, I had not laid any landscape fabric/material beforehand as the area where the base is being built was almost all dirt (and roots) to begin with. All of that was removed while digging. Will this be sturdy enough and provide the same level of support you mention in your post? I started this last fall and I let it settle over the winter and it has held up quite well. I appreciate any feedback you can provide. Thank you!
Hi Zach, From your description, it sounds like you should be fine! The landscaping fabric gives an extra level of stability, so we include it as a standard part of all shed foundations we install (as of the past several years). However, there are plenty of good pads out there that dont include it. Best wishes!
Hi Layne, we dont specialize in house foundations, so its hard for us to give a specific recommendation. Do keep in mind that if the lean-to is attached to the house, you want to make sure its foundation wont move separately from the foundation of the house. This foundation would be fine for a free-standing lean-to shed (assuming it includes a pre-built wooden floor). Sorry that we cant give more specific advice on your scenario!
Very useful information. I have a quick question. You say add the rebar once your perimeter is complete or 3 high. I want it to sit flush with the ground, can I just add one 46 post and call it good, or do I need to have it at least 3 post high?
I really like your detailed project info on the gravel shed foundation. I could not find 4 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. #2 Ground pressure treated wood in my area; so, can I used 44 or what other size would you recommend? Is it also mandatory to clear the grass instead of just laying the landscape fabric and putting the 3/4 gravel on it? Im just setting up an 810 shed.
Hi Ray, we usually upgrade to 66 lumber rather than downgrading to 44. Youll want to have at least 4 of gravel, so 4x4s will be cutting it a little tight in that regard. The top few inches of soil and grass are the most prone to settling after the shed is in place, so wed recommend removing them if at all possible.
Great article and video! I have a question regarding the combination of concrete piers and gravel. I assume the perimeter is built and then the holes are dug for the piers. I assume you all have to use sonotubes to get the piers to the final height that the gravel will be, correct? Does rebar get staked into the ground of the pier holes prior to pouring? What diameter of pier hole?
Hey thanks for the awesome article and video. If my gravel pad is on decently flat ground, do I need to be concerned about drainage? Well the ground fabric allow for any water that accumulates to drain into the ground? Thanks for the help!
Hi Caleb, We recommend using a permeable stabilization fabric. So unless water is already puddling in that location, the 3/4 clean stone and permeable fabric will allow water to drain straight through the shed foundation as it would on regular soil. Hope that helps!
Hi Donnie, Youre correct that Sonotubes are the way to go for pouring concrete shed footer piers. We recommend piers that are 12 or 16 in diameter for most sheds (larger piers for larger sheds). As far as reinforcement in the pier, its not generally necessary; if a specific township requires it, we will install rebar cages before pouring the concrete. Hope that helps!
Great information Got a question. My new shed is a post and beam type which is supported by a two 6X6 skids mounted 16 inches in from the out side perimeter of the sides of the shed. My question is, do I have to cover the entire area of the shed with stone beneath the shed? Or can I place, say two stone trenches of stone, say 30 inches wide beneath each skid for the foundation? The floor of the shed is 2X6 with 3/4 plywood. The shed is 14X20.
Hi George, Thats not exactly how we install our shed foundations, so its hard to make a definite recommendation. Do make sure that every part of the shed thats in direct contact with the ground has a firm, level, and well-drained base to rest on! If you do try two stone trenches, let us know how they turn out
Hi, this is easily one of the best resources that Ive come across and my wife and I have found it very useful, thanks! Given that milled and treated lumber has trebled in price in the past six months, Im curious about alternatives to wood for the perimeter. Is a row of standard cinderblocks, staked with rebar, a viable alternative to ground contact 4x6s? If so, would it make sense to add concrete mix below and around the cinderblocks to minimize risk of outward movement? For my project, cinderblocks, concrete and extra rebar would cost ~$110, while PT GC lumber option would run ~$600. Id hate to be penny wise and pound foolish though. Thanks again!
Hi Chris, It mainly depends on the slope of your site. If youre dealing with an area thats less than 8-10 off level, you should be fine with blocks. Just make sure to stake them well and not leave any large gaps where the stone can escape. If its a more sloped area, youll need to be concerned with reinforcing any built-up walls; with lumber perimeters, we recommend deadman bracing. Youll need to find a comparable alternative if youre using block. Hope that helps!
I am using your How to Build a Gravel Foundation for a 10 x 12 Shed. A few quick questions: 1) Can only find 2.5 x 100 stabilization fabric in my area. Do I need to tape the the stripes together before adding the gravel? 2) What is the best bit size for drilling holes for the 1/2 rebar, 1/2 or 5/8? 3) My lowest corner is 10 inches from level. Using two courses of 4 x 6s, I will not meet the 2-4 dig out requirement . Do I need a third course? If so, what size course would be recommended. Appreciate your help. You have a great site. WELL DONE!
Hi Michael, 1. You shouldnt need to tape the strips togetherif possible, you may want to overlap them slightly before adding the gravel. 2. As mentioned in the article, we recommend a 1/2 auger bit, at least 18 long. That will keep the stakes nice and tight when you pound them in. 3. If you need to add a third course, it may only need to extend partway around the pad. You can see examples here and here, as well as in our portfolio of completed foundation projects.
Hi, I dont think Ive ever posted a comment for anything on the internet, but I felt compelled to write and thank you for the very detailed instruction to build a shed foundation. I followed it step by step and couldnt be happier with the outcome. Im very grateful for the help, thank you!
Hi Jason, It depends on how sloped your site is. If the ground is fairly level, you may only need one course of lumber. You can see examples of a lot of different foundations in our site preparation project portfolio.
Hi, Site Prep folks! Thanks for the detailed, comprehensive instructions on building a gravel foundation. This undoubtedly saved me a lot of future headaches! I have a specific materials question for you: For the crushed stone, is the 3/4 size critical, or would 1-1/2 (clean) work equally or nearly as well? For some reason, Im having a very hard time finding 3/4 clean here in western Oregon, but 1-1/2 is easy to come by.
Hi , I am looking forward to building a foundation for a small 20 ft container home and wondering if your gravel foundation will be better than concrete one. Thank you for the great content it helps me to figure out the slope and drainage!
This was so helpful and Ive watched the video so many times and shared with others. I have a few questions Ive been struggling with. 1. My carpenter suggested we use 2 inch of Road Bond place the 46 on the Road Bond compacted. Then place the 6 inch of the 3/4 stone ( the local guy has 3/4 lime stone) is that what I want? and give me your thoughts of the Road bond compacted or should i just go with the 3/4 lime stone 2 inches then 46 and then 6 of lime stone?
2. I went to our Menards and they had 3 options and I dont know which one to choose for fabric ( Geotexile fabric) DuraWeb nonwoven and Duraweave woven and lastly Ultra poly web. ([Link deleted]([Link deleted]
Hi Inka, You will obviously want to check any applicable local codes related to foundation requirements for your planned container home. From our perspective, though, a compacted gravel pad should work quite well, assuming the container has a built-in floor. Good luck with your project!
Hi Chris, Glad you found this helpful! To answer your questions: 1. Adding Road Bond (or crusher run stone) under the perimeter isnt really necessary. However, it wont hurt anything if you choose to do it, though you may want to dig down a bit further so it doesnt lift your perimeter up too high. 2. The DuraWeb is probably your best option there. 3. Not 100% sure what type of shed youre getting, but it sounds like its being built on-site. Most of the shed foundations we build are for prefab sheds, which typically include 44 or 46 pressure-treated runners below the floor joists as a standard part of their construction. If thats what your carpenter is referring to, wed definitely recommend that. Do make sure the runners are fastened to the joists, though. Hope that helps! If it does and you have a minute to spare, feel free to leave us a Google review here.
We are moving our current shed that is all rotted on the bottom and moving it to the pad. We are going to rebuild the base and joist and then move it to the pad. We are going to bury the 46 runners into the 3/4 stone and leave just a inch or too exposed so the joist can rest on that 46 runner instead of the stone. I hope that is the right way or a good way of doing it. Thank you so much seriously wish you guys were close so i could use you to do our base. Have a great day and look forward to all the feedback. Wish I could leave 10 google reviews.
Hi Chris, Sorry we missed the question on stone type. 3/4 washed limestone is what we use. The reason we used washed stone is for better drainage; Road Bond/crusher run/#57 stone that still has the dust with it tends to pack extremely tight and can slow water from draining away from your building, which is one of the main reasons to choose a stone pad in the first place. Duraweb and Duraweave are both commercial-grade stabilization fabrics. We recommended the DuraWeb since its near the Duraweave in terms of strength, with greater permeability (from what we can tell without seeing it in person). The Ultra Polyweb is a much thinner fabric and we dont think its durable enough for this use. Hopefully that answers the additional questions!
We have subterranean termites in our area any wood that touches the dirt is eventually eaten away. Will Ground Contact lumber prevent that or do I need to go with composite decking-type material or metal?
Hi Nolene, Pressure-treated woodis infused with chemical preservatives to help protect the material against rotting and insects. In general, termites wont touch ground contact pressure-treated wood. So while ground contact pressure-treated wood is not technically termite-proof, it is considered termite-resistant. We have not seen termite issues in shed foundations using ground contact pressure-treated wood. Hope thats helpful!
Did you know building a driveway or parking lot can increase the value of your property? Choosing Limestone, with its grayish-white color can enhance the landscape and is a less expensive alternative to an asphalt or concrete driveway or parking lot. It is important to know the correct size of limestone needed and if you need multiple numbers of limestone to complete your project. Here are a few examples of numbers of limestone needed for driveways and parking lots.
First, the base of the driveway or parking lot should be filled with large stones. Number 2 Limestone is commonly used and is 3 to 4 inches of clean crushed limestone. This size resembles a lemon or grapefruit. Also, it cannot be shoveled by hand, so a skid-steer loader or dozer will work well to put the rocks in the desired position.
Secondly, add number 57 limestone rocks on top of the base. These to 1 inch rocks resembles a golf ball and weigh 1.25 ton per cubic yard. Use a scraper blade to place the rocks along the area and then go over that later with a metal roller pulled behind the equipment to pack the rocks down.
Lastly, top the area with number 8 limestone. This crushed limestone is 3/8-1/2 inch in size. As you place these rocks on top make a crown along the length of the driveway, higher than the sides. This allows for proper water flow. Once rocks are packed by a roller, the driveway or parking lot should be done.
If your next project involves building a driveway or parking lot, order your limestone from Jones Topsoil in Columbus, Ohio. Jones Topsoil has been serving Central Ohio for 85 years and specializes in providing top quality Topsoil, Mulch, Gravel, Limestone and Sand deliveries to your home! To place your order or learn more about our services contact us online.
I had 8 cubic yards of topsoil delivered to our house for use in a new flower bed. The representative I spoke with was very friendly, helpful, and professional. The soil was delivered the same afternoon I called.
This company was great. I had originally scheduled them to come on a Friday, but when I saw that the weather was going to be bad that day, I called on Thursday and asked if they could deliver that day instead. They agreed right away and delivered at the exact time I specified. The driver was actually waiting for me when I pulled in the driveway. He quickly pulled his dump truck into my driveway, dropped the topsoil exactly where I asked him to, took my check, and drove off. It was all very neat, orderly, and efficient. I love them!
The SoilPlus was worth every penny. It was great quality soil and so easy to work with. The driver who delivered the soil suggested he dump the soil in our beds rather than on the driveway as planned. What an excellent suggestion-saving us hours of work!
They delivered mulch and gravel to my house for me. They were on time with the delivery. I would use them in the future. They were courteous and kind. They were professional. The quality of their work was good. They were able to deliver it to me the same day. They were very responsive.
Gravel sizes can vary a little bit by location and distributor, but in most cases the crushed rock composite is available in more or less uniform sizes ranging anywhere from fine powder to pea-sized, coin-sized, or even golf ball-sized pieces. Most retailers and outlets used a numerical system to assign a size. The smallest is usually #10, #57 sits somewhere in the middle, and the biggest is usually #1. The number system is more often related to what the gravel is intended to be used for rather than its measurements. People who are in the market for gravel usually need to spend a bit of time thinking about the specifics of their project, then researching the size that would be most appropriate for that use.
The gravel sizing system can be confusing on first glance, and isnt always exactly consistent from place to place. Most manufacturers and distributors around the world use a numeric coding system that corresponds to larger guidelines about project specifications, and though theres usually general industry consistency, it isnt always exact. People who have stringent sizing specifications are usually wise to talk directly with a distributor or manufacturer to get more information on what is available and what the specifications are.
The smallest of all gravel sizes is usually size #10, which is also commonly known as screenings gravel. This gravel is typically around 1/8th of an inch (0.32 centimeters) in diameter, making it similar in appearance to coarse sand. Often, screenings gravel is used as the base for bricks, paving stones, and other similar items. In some cases, it can also be packed into the crevices created when other, larger stones are stacked, therefore aiding in the prevention of slippage. Size #10 gravel can be made from a variety of larger stones, but is most often made from slag or limestone.
Size #67 is usually about the same size as #10, but often has a slightly different purpose. Its commonly used as fill in roadways and concrete slabbing. Gravel labeled size #5 is similarly little more than a fine powder; its often used in paving to help seal everything together and to fill in crevices between larger pieces.
Size #57 is another of the more popular gravel sizes. This particular size of gravel ranges in diameter from 3/4th of an inch (1.9 centimeters) to 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) in diameter. This gravel is often used for paving walk or driveways, at it can be walked and driven on with relative ease. Though size #57 serves many purposes, it usually is avoided for use in areas that are prone to become muddy.
There are a number of other mid-range sizes available in many places, too, most of which are designed with specific projects or uses in mind. Size #3, for instance, is usually 1.5 to 2 inches (about 3.8 to 5 cm) in diameter, and is often best for residential draining projects; #8, which is usually 3/8 to 1/2 an inch (1 to 1.2 cm) across, is frequently used in asphalt and concrete mixtures. Gravel labeled #411 is usually a mixture of #57 and stone dust, and is particularly useful for patching potholes and sealing things like retaining walls.
Gravel known as size #1 is relatively large. Typically, this gravel ranges in diameter from 2.5 inches (6.35 centimeters) to 4 inches (10.16 centimeters). It can be difficult to work with, as it generally cannot be shoveled and instead must be moved individually, stone by stone. As with other types of very large gravel, size #1 is primarily used as decoration, and can be found in yards, gardens, or even parks. This type of stone is typically available in washed river gravel, slag, or limestone, though other materials may be available in some cases.
In most cases, people should choose their gravel based on the needs of their project rather than the numerical code on the label. Though sizing is more or less consistent from place to place, the only way to be sure about a bags contents is to read the description carefully or to talk with a sales professional about exactly what is inside. Contractors who are really familiar with regional sizing specifications and differences between brands and materials are often in the best position to give seasoned advice.
Since gravel is used in gardens and lawns, do experts recommend removing grass before application? Does it work as a discourager of weeds and other unwanted plants, or is it mainly used for garden paths and driveways?
#57 Limestone Gravel is a very commonly used gravel for a large number of applications. Its angular shape helps it lock in place, its relatively small size makes it easy to move, and it still has enough graps when spread or compacted to allow a large amount of water to flow through it.
#57 Gravel is the most common used gravel for a large number of applications. Its angular shape helps it lock in place, its relatively small size makes it easy to move. It has enough graps when spread or compacted to allow water to flow through it. This makes #57 Gravel great for:
- Driveways- Drainage in large areas that hold large amounts of water or small areas like the bottom of a flower pot- Underneath small structures such as patios, driveways, landscape walls, and sheds- Backfill for retaining walls- Many other construction related applications
- Load the product directly into your truck or trailer using a "skid-steerer" (or Bobcat front loader). Keep in mind the truck bed needs to have an open top to use the loader. You are more than welcome to shovel it in a vechicle that has a closed top.-Deliver your product in a dump truck that can dump in almost any paved area. We have trucks of various sizes that can fit almost any need.-Delivery your product in a SuperSack which is a 3'x3'x3' bag on a pallet. The SuperSack is brought to you and placed in a paved area using a forklift on the back of the truck.- Fill any container you bring! It's much cheaper than buying prepackaged bags.- Install the product for you! Simply fill out this on-line form below (labeled "FREE ESTIMATES"), select an appointment time, and we will be out there to provide an immediate on-site estimate for the work you would like completed! As a general rule, installation labor is approximately $75.00 per ton plus the cost of the material...again just a ballpark so you know what to expect.
This is the most common question we have and it is easy to figure out with our gravel calculator! Bulk gravel is sold by ton which. If you provide input a little information to our calculator, we will provide you with how much gravel you will need for your project. Simply get the width and length of the areas that you will be applying the gravel and input the information in our gravel project calculator, then select your desired depth of gravel. The calculator will figure out how many tons you will need! Make sure you consider the existing plants in the area, you will not be applying gravel on top of them so minus some of the area out for that!
- New gravel driveways should be done in two layers. First layer or base should be either #2 Gravel or #4 Gravel, this layer should be 3" to 6". You will then use #57 Gravel, the appropriate depth of stone should be 3" to 6". Vehicles and time will push the gravel into the soil which will require more gravel initially than if the area already had a hard base to lay upon. In 2-3 years, you may need to refresh the area until the ground is hard enough to no longer allow the gravel to be pushed into the soil.- Existing driveways need approximately 2" of gravel. You may need more if the previously layed gravel has been pushed deep into the soil.- Patios need at least 4" of #57 Gravel as a base with a leveling agent like #9 Gravel for the stone to lay naturally on. If you plan to place heavy objects on the patio such as a fireplace or hot tub, you need at least 6" of gravel to reduce sinking in that area. Paved driveways need least 10" of #57, especially if heavy vehicles will be driven on them. Keep in mind that you will need to overdig the paved area, so add a couple feet on each side of your measurement to ensure you have enough.- #57s are also regularly used for backfill on a retaining wall. This allows water to flow over and through the ground towards your wall but instead of pushing soil over, into, and through your wall, the soil and water can move through the #57s instead. You'll need a compacted gravel based below the wall that will depend on the weight of the wall (the density of the stone and the volume of all stones, including the cap). The backfill will start from the base of the wall and go vertically up the back of the wall, leaving 4"-6" below the top of the wall (that area will be covered by native soil). The backfill gravel will start from the back of the wall and extend towards the soil - anywhere from 3" to 10", depending on the height of the wall and how much water flows in the area.- Small structures such as sheds generally need 3"-4" inches of #57 gravel while larger sheds may need more.
When in doubt, increase your base depth or backfill amount. While it may cost a little more, it pales in comparison to the cost of the rest of the job or for a repair that needs done years down the road.
Bulk products in loose form will be dumped from our trucks or loaded by machine in your open truck. Unfortunately, we cannot mix bulk products on the same truck nor can we dump your product in more than one spot. If you are interested in multiple bulk products, you may want to consider selecting the Supersack packaging option, then you can mix the bulk products on the same truck if they are all packaged in Supersacks. We can bring up to 15 cubic yards or tons of bulk or packaged material to you per delivery. Please keep in mind that our drivers ability to place the product in the exact location you want it may be limited due to access and overhead obstructions. We ship product 7 days a week, but please provide a two day notice when orders are placed on-line. Please contact us with any other questions!
View Our Professional Hardscape Portfolios - Paver Drives, Walkways, Patios & Outdoor Kitchens View Paver Brick Photo Galleries During COVID-19, Please call the office at (847) 223-7000 to schedule a time for pickups.
When you think of a gravel driveway, you may imagine a sleepy, dusty lane that leads to a quaint rural cottage or farmhouse on a lonely country road. In reality, gravel is equally at home in rural, suburban, or urban environments, and its durability, affordability, and ease of installation make it a smart paving option for driveways. If you are considering a gravel driveway, you should be aware that not all gravel is created equal: Gravel can range in size from tiny sand-like grains of crushed stone to larger rocks left behind by retreating glaciers. Gravel can be made from just about any natural stone and is available in a wide variety of colors. A gravel driveway requires at least three layers, beginning with large stones at the bottom, medium in the middle, and small stones on top. Check our guide to see which types of stone are best for the job.
Gravel is typically graded by size, and most driveways use at least three different sizes of gravelthat are put down in layers to create a solid foundation and ensure proper drainage. A popular choice for the bottom layer is #3 stone, which ranges in size from one to two inches in diameter. Also called clean stone, this base gravel is made from machine-crushed stone and is composed of irregular rock fragments. A four-inch-thick layer of this type of gravel forms a strong foundation for the driveway while ensuring proper drainage.
Another popular gravel often used as a foundation for driveways is known as Item #4, which is a mixture of machine-crushed stones that measure roughly the size of a golf ball, along with sand and dirt. Item #4 comes in a variety of compositions, including Recycled Item #4, which consists of recycled concrete, blacktop, brick, rock, and other stones; Quarry Item #4, or crushed limestone; Gray Item #4, which is dark gray in appearance; and Crushed Bluestone Item #4, a dark blue-gray stone often used in municipal paving projects. No matter its makeup, all Item #4 gravel is suitable for the base layer of a driveway.
The middle layer of a gravel driveway is typically constructed of golf-ball-size crushed stone, or #57 stone. This type of gravel, made from machine-crushed stone, is also a popular choice for landscape design and forconstructing French drains, as the size and shape of the rock fragments promotes proper drainage and prevents the gravel from locking together to form an impervious surface.
The final layer of a gravel driveway consists of smaller gravel blended with coarse rock dust, known as fines. Crushed stone #411, which is a mixture of #57 stone and coarse rock dust, is a good option for this top layer. This blend of small stones and rock dust will fit tightly together as the stones settle, forming a stable, solid surface that can stand up to heavy vehicles.
Quarry process stonealso known as crusher runis another good option for the top level of a driveway or walkway.Composed of a blend of smaller crushed stone and stone dust, crusher run typically includes a higher percentage of stone dust fines. As the gravel settles, the dust seeps into the spaces between the gravel and compacts, forming a smooth, semisolid surface. If you use quarry process stone in your project, it is essential to crown the drivewaygrade it so that the middle is slightly higher than the sidesto ensure that rainwater will drain properly and also to reduce damage to the driveway.
An eye-catching option for the top layer of a driveway, pea gravel consists of naturally weathered stones that are small, smooth, and rounded. Pea gravel comes in an array of colors, or in multicolored mixtures, and is popular as a top layer because of its attractive appearance and smooth texture. One caveat: Because the rounded stones don't lock together in the same way as angular fragments of crushed stone, pea gravel is more likely to move under vehicles, and can migrate off the driveway surface unless edging is added around the driveway to hold the material in place.
Jersey Shore gravel is a type of small stone aggregate characterized by its yellow color, a composite of shades of gold, tan, white, and brown. Jersey Shore gravel, which mimics the color of beach sand, is often used as a top layer in driveways throughout New England and the Mid-Atlantic States. Jersey Shore gravel is similar to pea gravel in its smooth, rounded shape, and like pea gravel requires a driveway border oredging to hold it in place.
White marble chips sparkle and shimmer in the sunlight, creating stunning visual impact and adding an aesthetically pleasing element to the front yard. Marble chips make an elegant top layer for driveways and walkwaysthe only downside is the cost, which is substantially higher than that of other types of stone. Like pea gravel, marble chips are quite smooth, so they, too, require an edging material to keep them in place and prevent all that expensive stone from washing away.
River rockalso known as creek stoneconsists of gently rounded, semi-polished stones that have been dredged or scooped from the beds of streams or rivers. While not an ideal choice for the top layer of a drivewaythe smooth stones shift significantly under the weight of vehiclesriver rock doesmake an attractive and durable edging material to hold other types of surface-level driveway gravel in place.
Disclosure: BobVila.com participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for publishers to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Our Gravel calculator allows you to estimate the quantity of gravel required for your project. It provides the measurement of the excavation and it returns the area and volume of the excavation and weight of the gravel required. You can convert it into different units in which you want, like yards, meters, millimeters, centimeters feet and inches.
Gravel is made up of rock fragments. Gravel used for typical commercial use is usually of smaller size but its size can range from granule (2mm to 4mm) to boulder. Gravel is commonly used to build roads, paths, driveways and even on the patios.
There are numerous types of gravel available some chosen because of their size and shape and some chosen for their color. For example, pea gravel is chosen because of its round shape and small size, which makes it most comfortable to walk on.
To determine the quantity of gravel you need to calculate the volume of the gravel or area in the question. Dont get confused with why we used gravel with area, because the volume of the gravel is same as volume of the area. Follow the steps below to calculate the volume.
4757.23 Kgs is the weight of gravel you should order. But dont forget to order extra material to allow for wastage. Also gravel like marble chips and pea gravel are known for migrating off of driveways or walkways. You may need to add extra material after every few months or may be years.
It is used to make roofing shingles, used on icy roads in the winter, for railroad ballast, and water filtration.It is also used for road construction, for mixing with sand and mixing with asphalt, as construction fill, and in the production of construction materials like concrete blocks, bricks, and pipes.
Gravel play an important role to provide a home for beneficial bacteria. Those bacterial colonies are necessary to eliminate waste produced by the fish, leftover food, and plant refuse in the aquarium.
Gravel of the appropriate type (i.e. not too bold and dazzling) can create a pleasant habitat for your fish. The more comfy habitat is for your fish, the less stressed and more healthy they will be. Stress is a major contributor to a settlement of the immune system in fish, leaving them more receptive to diseases. Perhaps the necessary function that gravel serves is to provide a home for beneficial bacteria. Those bacterial colonies are necessary to eliminate waste produced by the fish, leftover food, and plant refuse in the aquarium. If the bacteria dont have a cozy gravel bed to live in they will find other places, but may not grow in ample quantities to keep the aquarium safe for your fish.
Some landscapers suggest to put down layers of sand and crushed rock beneath the gravel in order to stabilize the surface, but a simple 2- or 3-inch layer of gravel will stop puddling and will also avoid the possibility of the sand and rock working its way up through the gravel. Water drains rapidly through gravel than it does through most types of soil, so puddles form less readily on gravel-covered pathways and borders than they do on soil surfaces.
Homeowners will need about 200 square feet of coverage which costs around $350 with most homeowners spending between $300 and $400 for smaller project. For this size of project, consider purchasing pea gravel in bags of 0.5 cubic feet. The price will fluctuate by location, but its almost in the range of $4 to $6 per bag for plain or neutral pea gravel. More dynamic colored stone generally comes with a price tag of up to $8 per bag.These bags are available at most home improvement stores.
Homeowners can buy pea gravel by the cubic yard or by the ton for large project. Youll generally need to contact a landscaping supplier to purchase this quantity. The price will fluctuate by location and is based on the distance from a quarry. The general range for a cubic yard of plain pea gravel is about $30 to $35, and a ton will cost about $40 to $45. For a colored variation, expect to add an extra $20 to $50 to those prices.
There are some other expenses to consider before installing pea gravel. When ordering pea gravel by the ton, gravel distributor will generally set a minimum order amount for delivery. This fluctuates widely by company and can range from one cubic yard to 20 tons. Wholesale pricing mostly requires at least 10 to 20 tons per delivery. Companies also may charge a delivery fee, which usually dissimilar based on the delivery distance. When moving tons of gravel between cities, expect the delivery fee to range in the hundreds of dollars.
Consider this when choosing gravel garden plant. Planting in gravel culture is different. It is important that the roots reach the soil level because they cannot grow out into the gravel. Dug deep, wide holes down to the soil, pulling the gravel layer out wide. The soil needs extra nutrients and good drainage to prevent squashy roots and infertile conditions. Gravel mulch on top acts as a natural moisture conservator, but the stones will get hot in sunny areas and some water will evaporate.
Gravel roads are often found in cold climates because they are less vulnerable to freeze / thaw damage than asphalt roads. When grading or building the road, water bars are used to direct water off the road. The inferior surface of gravel is not an issue if the road is covered by snow and ice for extended periods.
Pea gravel is small rocks typically 3/8 in size that are naturally weathered. They are often chosen due to their small size and rounded shape. It makes them perfect for driveways, flowerbeds and walkways. Pea gravel usually require edging to prevent them from moving away from the driveway or walkway surface.
Quarry process also called crusher run, is the combination of stone dust, crushed stone and trap rock. Stones usually inch or less in size. Often used in the construction of driveways, road base, patios and walkways as base or sub-base. The jagged edges of the stone help the pieces to adhere and bond to one another while the stone dust fills in the spaces between gravel and reduces the void content. After being compacted, this will create a very stable and unmoving surface for driving upon. Its subtle gray and black colors tend to complement a number of landscaping themes and styles. It is the unique option for homeowner.
White marble chips offer a touch of elegance to any property. These are often chosen due to their pleasant look. They range between inch to 1 inch in size, should be treated in the same way as pea gravel i.e. with proper edging. The surface of the stones seems shimmering, sparkling which work to attract the eye and reflect sunlight. This helps to keep the property from becoming overheated.
This type of aggregate can be comprised of limestone, granite, gneiss, or trap rock, depending on the quarry. Crushed stone has been carefully screened and sized so that its ideally suited for the construction and surfacing of a residential front drive. The fine-drawn blend of gray and white hues makes it easy to integrate these stones into any landscaping theme. They can also be complemented by a variation of different edging materials and colorful vegetation.
Washed clean stone is very similar to crushed stone in its composition and manufacture except that the step of thoroughly cleaning and removing impurities is added to the process. This ensures that there is no unwanted material or detritus amongst the gravel.
These gravel pieces are the perfect size for creating a driveway surface that will offer a smooth and gentle ride and creating a restful and delightful landscaping feature that will welcome guests to your home.
This is the most important part to choose the right type of gravel for your project. You take the time to understand your options and select the right stone aggregate before beginning any work because it can make a major difference in your contentment with the work as well as the appearance of your property. Each type of gravel has its own elegant look, each of which can compliment different styles of landscaping and architecture, thus tying a landscaping theme together. Some types of gravel feature a different consistency or level of strength and integrity which can cater to varying needs.
Gravel driveways, in comparison with asphalt driveways, are the least expensive option to build your driveways. But they do require most maintenance in long-term. Application of herbicide to prevent weeds from growing and adding more gravel are common tasks to maintain the driveways.
When visitors approach your property, whats the first thing they notice? Whether it looks fabulous or is in a state of disrepair, your guests eyes will immediately be drawn to your driveway. A driveway is, after all, the gateway to your home and the most prominent feature within your landscape.
An attractive limestone drivewayor gravel driveway can significantly add to the curb appeal and value of your property. If youve been at all interested in installing a new drive, we suggest that you explore your options in this department. This post will take an objective look at limestone drivewayvs. gravel driveways so that you can make the most educated decision possible.
Why should you be interested in working with loose fill materials for your driveway to begin with? People love limestoneand gravel for a number of reasons, the first being appearance. Stone is known for its elegance and sophistication. Both limestoneand gravel can create everything from an upscale and modern theme for your landscape to a traditional countryside home and everything in between.
In addition to looking fabulous, aggregate materials are also extremely affordable and easy to work with. Its simple to create layouts of all shapes and sizes with loose fill stone. The material requires very little maintenance and attention but will endure the harshest of conditions. Theres no reason not to love loose fill material for your driveway.
Although both limestoneand gravel are excellent materials for driveways, you may find that one type of stone is preferable to the other, depending on your project specifications. Heres a look at the types of projects that you might consider for each:
Many types of limestoneare selected for use in driveways because of very specific properties, whether they be decorative or functional. Those who are interested in creating a uniquelimestonedriveway, for example, might opt to go with a crushed limestone as in a 610 limestone (3/4 of an inch with crushed limestone) , 57 limestone (uniform 1/2 inch limestone) or a #8 limestone (uniform 1/4 inch limestone).
In other instances, homeowners might be hoping to create an affordable, loose fill driveway that has more of a permanent feel to it. Here is where a limestonematerial like quarry process or dense grade aggregate would fit the bill perfectly.
Since the material is so beautiful and versatile, many homeowners decide to move forward with plans for a gravel driveway. Gravel tends to be smaller and lighter in weight than many types of limestonewhich can also make it more affordable. Traditional gravel can be used to create a classic look, or decorative types of gravel can be poured to establish a stunning, one-of-a-kind driveway.
When choosing materials for your loose fill driveway, youll find that you have no shortage of options. There are several different varieties of gravel and limestone of differing sizes, textures, and colors that youll be able to select from. Heres a breakdown of your options:
Limestone is available in a number of different sizesand styles to suit your individual needs and tastes. Some homeowners prefer the traditional, subtle look of washed clean stone. Its carefully pulverized and screened to size. The typical size used for a driveway is 3/4, although 3/8 or 1 1/2 may also be used.
There are several options to choose from when looking for materials for a gravel driveway, too. In addition to the traditional limestonethat is frequently thought of when working with gravel, there are also decorative types of the material. Of these, the most frequently selected is pea gravel. This particular type of gravel gets its name because the stone is similar in shape and size to a pea.
Its ideal for a gravel driveway because it offers a wide range of different colors, including shades of brown, white, tan, gray, green, blue and red. This makes it easy to incorporate into any existing landscape.
There are several factors which can influence the pricing of your limestone drivewayor gravel driveway. Both materials are considered to be among the most affordable for projects of this type and are compatible with any budget. Understanding the variables that can impact final cost, however, can help you to get an even better deal.
Acadiana Shell & Limestonehas been the go to place for homeowners for over 30 years throughout South Louisiana who are looking for asupplier for their limestone driveway or gravel driveway project. Our locally owned and operated limestone yardshavehigh quality aggregate materials at affordable prices.
Limestone Crushed Limestone Sand Mason Dirt Topsoil Gravel Aggregates Rip Rap Culverts Drainage Products Drainage Fittings Polyethylene Culverts (Black Plastic Pipe) Polypropylene Culverts (Grey Plastic Pipe) Metal Culverts Concrete Culverts Storm Drain Culverts Storm Drain Pipe A-2000 Culverts (White Plastic Pipe) Oilfield Cellers Construction Fabric Pipe Wrap Silt Fence Landscape Mulch And more...
Acadiana Shell and Limestoneserves the major cities and surrounding communities of Lafayette, Scott, Carencro, Duson, Rayne, Crowley, Maurice, Milton, Youngsville, Broussard, Abbeville, Kaplan, Breaux Bridge, Opelousas, Eunice, Mire, Erath, Delcambre, Amelia, Arnaudville, Baldwin, Basile, Bayou Vista, Berwick, Cankton, Leonville, Loreauville, Mamou, Melville, Mermentau, Midland, Morgan City, Morse, New Iberia, Cecilia, Chataignier, Church Point, Egan, Esterwood, Eunice, Palmetto, Parks, Patterson, Pine Prairie, Port Barre, Rayne, Scott, St. Martinville, Sunset, Ville Platte, Washington, Franklin, Grand Coteau, Gueydan, Henderson, Intracoastal City, Iota, Jeanerette, Krotz Springs, Lawtell, Alexandria, Port Hudson, Atchafalaya, Baton Rouge, Bayou Chicot, Bayou Sale, Brusly, Cade, Cameron, Grand Chenier, Catahoula, Centerville, Charenton, Cottonport, Creole, Cypermort Point, Dequincy, Deridder, Donalsonville, Elton, Erwinville, Fenton, Gross Tete, Glenmora, Houma, Iberville, Jennings, Lake Charles, Lacassine, Lake Arthur, Leesville, Marksville, New Roads, Oberlin, Plaquemine, Pointe a la Hache, Port Allen, Simmesport, Vatican, Vinton, Zachary as well as Lafayette Parish, Acadia Parish, Vermilion Parish, St Martin Parish, St Landry Parish, Evangeline Parish, Jefferson Davis Parish, St Mary Parish, Allen Parish, Ascension Parish, Beauregard Parish, Calcasieu Parish, East Baton Rouge Parish, Iberville Parish, Pointe Coupee Parish, Rapids Parish, Red River Parish, Terrebonne Parish, West Baton Rouge Parish, West Feliciana Parish and throughout the greater Acadiana area and everywhere in between in South Louisiana.
There are many different types of rocks and gravel that you can buy. Pea gravel is one of the most popular and standard types of gravel, but it isnt the only one. Landscaping rocks can be found in many different shapes and sizes.
Limestone gravel is one of the most common and cheapest types of gravel. But that isnt all limestone is used for nor is limestone gravel the only type of gravel found in nature. Limestone is much more plentiful and versatile than that.
Gravel is a type of aggregated rock that is primarily gathered from riverbeds. It is used to cover pathways, patios, and more. Gravel is often purchased for a lower price than crushed stone or other types of rocks.
For this reason, it is quite popular. Though the price does vary depending on the type of gravel that you buy. Gravel can be anywhere from 2mm to almost 3-inches and can be made from almost any type of stone.
Limestone itself is a hard sedimentary rock made of calcium carbonate or dolomite. It is often ground up to make cement, adhesives, and other mixtures that need aggregates to work. Limestone is a cheap, readily available option.
Limestone is primarily used because of its price and availability but it is also widely loved because of its unique look. This type of rock is lightweight and porous. This makes it great for draining purposes but not so good against stains.
Yes, the two can be combined to create what is known as limestone gravel. Since gravel is defined by the size and source, and limestone is defined by the type of rock, there is such a thing as limestone gravel.
Limestone gravel is simply gravel made from limestone. It occurs naturally in shallow ocean beds whereas most other gravel occurs naturally in freshwater beds such as creeks, rivers, and lakes. But they are both considered gravel when broken up.
Standard gravel is often made from hard rocks that are not porous, though both sandstone and limestone are still common types of gravel. The differences arent as noticeable as you may think because gravel is gravel.
What is different than gravel though is river rock. Because river rock, which is often confused for gravel, is smooth. River rocks are smoothed down from decades of the water rushing over them, but gravel is not smooth.
Though there are types of gravel that are more smooth, most gravel will not be rounded like river rocks. Instead, they will have a natural look. Gravel is most often found in the shallowest parts of the water or near the shore.
Despite the belief that limestone is a specific stone, there are many different types of limestone. Though there may be dozens of types of limestone in existence, here are the most common types that you can find yourself.
Yes, that piece of rock you use to draw on concrete is a variety of limestone. Or at least, it used to be. Today, most chalk is man-made. Real chalk has a very fine texture and is powdery in substance, even when found in nature in gray or white color.
Coquina is a cemented limestone made of tiny fragments of shell or coral debris. Now isnt that a cool occurrence? The tiny pieces of shells from sea creatures and coral coming together to form a hard piece of naturally cemented stone.
This is actually known as marble in our world. Real marble. This is because any crystalline carbonate rock that has the ability to accept a polish is called marble. So the definition is quite broad, and this fits into it.
This type of limestone is made of calcite that has been transformed into dolomite. It is one of the more common types of limestone. The process happens when the calcite is exposed to too much magnesium.
Fossiliferous limestone is fairly self-explanatory. It is a limestone that has a noticeable fossil in it, usually more than one fossil. Because limestone has always been found in wet areas, the fossils are almost always sea creatures.
Lithographic limestone is a dense type of limestone that has a very smooth surface. It was named after the process of creating copies by pressing ink onto surfaces was created. This limestone was used for lithography in the 1700s.
Oolites are tiny specks of calcium carbonate with a spherical shape. The oolitic limestone is formed when these oolites grab onto a particle from a shell or other undersea material. The oolites continue to build until a rock is formed.
You may know this one if youve ever looked at alternatives to marble floors. Travertine is a gorgeous limestone used for floors in high-end estates. It is originally white but is often stained to come in a variety of colors.
Tufa is a porous limestone rock that forms from the precipitation of calcium carbonate, which is usually at a hot spring or other similar location. It is an expensive stone that needs to be mined and harvested with special equipment.
Limestone can be so fun to work with and its not just limestone gravel that you can use for your outdoor projects. You can use pavers, large stones, and even solid blocks of carved limestone. Doesnt that sound exciting?
Although you may not have the next Michelangelo in your yard, you can sure try! And if you cant afford to use limestone in that way, there are still plenty of other projects you can take care of in one afternoon.
Forget aesthetics, if you want to start off with something practical then try adding limestone to your soil. Limestone is rich in minerals and can be exactly what your soil needs to thrive, grow plants, and look amazing.
The ability of limestone to neutralize soil acidity is amazing. It can correct a nutrient deficiency and balance pH. It is often added to fertilizer for this reason but you can add it directly into your soil on your own.
Building a pathway is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to make a big impact in your yard. There are multiple ways you can do it with limestone too, which opens up so many possibilities in your yard.
The easiest way is to build a limestone gravel pathway. But other options include using limestone stepping stones or a simple limestone sidewalk with pavers. The gravel is the cheapest but the other options are high-end.
Patios are just what most yards need to look and feel inviting. You can create a concrete patio, a wooden patio, or a stone patio. But the easiest way to create a patio is to use a little bit of gravel, perhaps limestone gravel.
Create a barrier, dig down a few inches, and pour the gravel. It really is that easy! If you want, you can even use retaining walls, preferably a railroad tie retaining wall, to create a masterpiece that fits any landscaping style.
You can use limestone to cover the top of and fill your french drain. Installing a French drain can be just what you need to make your yard look nice and free it of andy puddles that have piled up. It isnt difficult to build one either.
All you need is to dig a ditch, add a weed barrier, pipe, and cover it with gravel. For full instructions, visit this French drain guide that will show you how to DIY your way to a professional French drain.
You can create an entire driveway with nothing but limestone. While you should probably add a simple frame for safety reasons and a weed barrier for looks, your main ingredient will be limestone gravel.
This is way cheaper than adding asphalt and will have less maintenance than using pea gravel. Not to mention, its cheaper than adding pea gravel as pea gravel is one of the more expensive types of gravel.
Columns, fountains, statues! These Greek creations can make your house look like a million bucks. But they dont have to be made of marble. You can create limestone projects that look like they are made from an expensive stone.
While this isnt nearly as affordable as limestone gravel, it is an option if you have a few bucks to spare. Hire a professional to carve it out or pick up a new hobby and create something wonderful on your own.
In general, you should probably use the gravel that is readily available in your area as it will be the lowest price and the most naturally derived. Buying online is very expensive, so buying locally is your best bet.
Find out what is naturally produced in your area and seek out companies or individuals selling gravel. Those with creeks running through their property often sell gravel and rocks on the side, so dont forget to ask around.