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getting started with aluminum extrusions | hackaday

T-slot extrusions used to be somewhat mysterious, but today they are quite common thanks to their use in many 3D printers. However, it is one thing to assemble a kit with some extrusions and another thing to design your own creations with the material. If you ever had a Play-Doh Fun Factory as a kid, then you know about extrusions. You push some material out through a die to make a shape. Of course, aluminum extrusions arent made from modeling clay, but usually 6105-T5 aluminum. Oddly, there doesnt seem to be an official standard, but it is so common that theres usually not much variation between different vendors.

We use extrusions to create frames for 3D printers, laser cutters, and CNC machines. But you can use it anywhere you need a sturdy and versatile frame. There seems to be a lot of people using them, for example, to build custom fixtures inside vans. If you need a custom workbench, a light fixture, or even a picture frame, you can build anything you like using extrusions.

If you are handy enough, of course, you can build all of those things without resorting to aluminum extrusion. After all, it isnt hard to build a box out of wood or even aluminum stock. But having stock inexpensive aluminum is both strong and convenient. In general, all you need is a way to cut the extrusion square (or, buy it in the lengths you want) and a way to drill holes in the relatively soft aluminum. In some cases, you may want to tap some holes either that already exist or those you freshly drilled.

However, what you do need is a lot of special parts. There are brackets and special nuts and a variety of accessories. You can think of it as something akin to an adult Erector set. One thing that has made working with extrusions easier is that you can 3D print just the bracket you need in many cases instead of buying an exotic bracket or having to stock a lot of different items. A fantastic example of this are all of the brackets and retaining parts Roger Cheng covered in his guide How to Build Anything Out of Aluminum Extrusion and 3D Printed Brackets.

There isnt just a single kind of extrusion, but they all share some common features. In general, the extrusion will be like a square or a rectangle. The most basic extrusions are square and there will be a central hole and one or more T slots for attaching things. If you are making something you want to be attractive, you might not want the T slot on all sides, but usually, with a 3D printer or other machines youll have a slot on all sides.

More complex extrusions will usually repeat the pattern so a 4020 extrusion appears like two 2020 extrusions joined together. Of course, they arent made that way it is one solid extrusion where theyre squeezed out like Play-Doh, a fascinating story that Dan Maloney dove into last year. However, there are other extrusion shapes, such as those with a radius or those shaped like triangles for special purposes.

There are two things youll need to do: join extrusions together securely and affix things to the extrusions. For example, if you are making a table, youd want to build a frame to hold the desktop that has four legs. Youd attach a laminate tabletop to the frame and put leveling feet in the legs. Of course, you could get a lot fancier like [Evan] and [Katelyn] did in the video below.

In many cases, attaching accessories like a foot or a bracket to an extrusion has a lot in common with how you join multiple extrusions together, so lets attack that first. The trick is to use special nuts that fit inside the T slots. You have several options. Square nuts can slide into the slot if they are thin enough. You can put a tension spring on the nut to hold it in place while you tighten the bolt into the nut. However, usually, people just thread the bolt on and slide the whole thing into the slot.

The downside to this is that you have to have access to the open end of the slot. If you want to add something between two other nuts or if the slot is blocked with a bracket, you will have to tear everything apart to get the new nut in. This is a type of preset nut, and they also make rectangular nuts known as T nuts that serve the same purpose.

If you were, for example, affixing a stepper motor bracket with two mounting holes to your frame, youd either insert the nuts or thread them loosely on the bolts inserted into the bracket and then slide them into the slot. When you have the assembly in the right position, you simply tighten the bolts.

The only tricky part is the length of the bolt to use. You need a bolt that will go through the bracket and just go into the nut without coming out the other side and touching the extrusion. If the bracket were, say, 10mm thick and the nut is 6mm thick, you might use a 15mm long bolt to leave a millimeter margin. If the bolt is too short, the joint wont be sturdy.

If you need to add something to the middle of an extrusion where you cant access the entrance to the T slot, youll need a special kind of T nut. These are the least secure attachment but are often good enough. These nuts have an elliptical shape so that when they rotate 90 degrees they get stuck in the slot. There are also nuts that have springs or set screws so you can put them in the slot at an angle and then rotate the long edge to compress the spring, allowing the nut to clear the slot. When you let go, the spring pushes the nut into the edge of the slot, locking it in place. These are sometimes called drop-in or roll-in nuts.

You can also get T head bolts where the bolt head fits into the slot instead of the nut. These look like T nuts, but have a threaded bolt instead of a threaded hole. They also make T nuts that have multiple threaded holes. For example, a corner bracket something well talk about shortly might have three holes spaced every 20mm, and there will be a corresponding nut with 3 holes with the same spacing. Of course, you could always just use three regular nuts.

You can attach a stepper motor bracket or a cabinet slide using T nuts and bolts. But you can also attach a bracket to two or more extrusions to join them together. They make these brackets in aluminum, steel, or polymer, of course, but you can also 3D print them. However, you need to be careful. Usually, the brackets only constrain the extrusions in two dimensions, so youll want to use a second method to overconstrain the joint.

Most brackets are exactly what youd think they are shaped somewhat like an L or a T or a plus sign but there are a dizzying array of options. There are also corner connectors for making boxes that have an XYZ configuration. However, you can also get inner brackets that look like two T nuts in an L shape. A set screw holds each leg of the L in place. Some have an angled set screw to help align the connection in which case, you have to use a different type of inner connector depending on which way the connector faces. Youll usually use these in pairs to hold both sides of the extrusion, although thats not always necessary. You can see an example of a simple inner connector in the video below.

Sometimes you want to just join two extrusions end-to-end. A linear connector can do that. It is just a strip of metal that fits in the slot and has a few holes for set screws. You can also get brackets that will let you put a piece of extrusion in as a diagonal brace for extra strength.

There is also a simple way to connect two extrusions without using a bracket at all. It is more work, though, but uses fewer parts. Suppose you want to join extrusion A and B at a right angle. Your first step is to tap the central hole (or holes) in extrusion A. Then you drill a normal hole through extrusion B big enough to get a hex key for your bolt through the hole. You thread a bolt into the threaded hole, but before it is tight, you slide the head of the bolt into Bs T slot. The hole in B is positioned so you can finish tightening the bolt.

There are many things made to work with extrusions you can get from the same place you buy them. There are cover plates, feet, and casters. You can get springs that hold sheet material like acrylic in the T slot. There are wheels, doors, handles, and hinges all made to fit into T slots.

If you browse any of the 3D printing sites like Thingiverse, youll find there are many designs for things like spool holders, filament guides, tool holders, and lamps that will fit in a T slot either as a friction fit or by mounting with nuts. Just remember that if you want to add something later and it needs screws, youll probably want some kind of drop-in nut.

The cheapest way to buy extrusion is to get it surplus in whatever lengths you can get usually leftovers and cut them to the size you want yourself. If you do cut it yourself, youll want to be sure to make a clean and square cut so that the extrusions square up when you attach them together. Youll want to use a metal cutting blade, of course.

However, if you buy new extrusions you can usually get them cut very precisely to whatever size you need. This may also cut down on expensive shipping for long pieces that youll cut anyway. In addition to cuts, you can often get the material in different colors or metal alloys. You can also ask for holes on one or both ends to be tapped if you prefer not to do that yourself.

There are many places you can buy extrusions and related items. Misumi is a common option as is 8020. The big suppliers like Grainger, Fastenal, and McMaster-Carr carry a lot of this sort of thing, but they are often pretty expensive.

You can 3D print a lot of brackets (including one that is apparently the worlds best) and accessories and if you want to model something, you can even 3D print extrusions, although you need your print tolerances pretty tight. There are many designs for plastic T nuts that take a normal nut for threading and a plethora of brackets of all descriptions.

There are a few things to watch out for, though. First, use common sense. plastic brackets and extrusions wont be as strong as those made of metal, although weve seen people go overboard with the idea. Also, not all extrusions are exactly the same, so a design for a nut that fits brand X might not fit the ones you have. As always with 3D printing, youll need to tweak and adjust.

If you want to get fancy with your designs and maybe even use 3D printed holders for cheap nuts. Either way, if you are building a desk, a machine, a robot, or nearly anything else you can imagine, aluminum extrusions are a great thing to have in your toolkit.

Nice summary; thanks! Can we get a compare and contrast on extrusion versus channel strut? (I have one thing in my house Frankensteined together from both metric extrusion and imperial channel strut) DIN rail is less directly overlapping in uses, but also would be nice to compare or have adapters to attach to the others.

It is more Erector Set than kit. It is/was a toy for kids to build stuff. It was made with metal, and you joined ends with nuts and bolts. Some of the sets had motors and you could make cars and other motorized things. Heres the wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erector_Set

Up to the 70s in the US, every mechanically inclined boy got at least one Erector Set as a Christmas or birthday present. In the late 70s Legos took over and playing with Erectors was less common, at least in my neighborhood.

Erector sets and Meccano were competing products. Meccano (as I recall) was steel and each size had its own colour whereas Erector was all aluminum.. I had both as a kid and I (sort of) grew up in the 50s and 60s

Oh that thing was called Merkur in out country. Because there was lack of basically everything during the socialism era and because this thing was kind of available (and quiet common) many people was using is for making useful stuff. Including scientific instruments probably one of the most famous in this field was this guy https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Otto_Wichterle

ive only used them for one project, a kit 3d printer (like everyone else). but i love how that worked out! the best part is the extrusions provided the bulk of a linear actuator, so it was super convenient for the 3 identical axes of a delta printer. the kit came with a bunch of T-nuts which i loved, though obviously the printer never sees any particular mechanical load. really, most of the places where the extrusion is jammed into a hole in a PLA bracket, friction would hold it in place just fine.

for one piece, i couldnt use the T-nutsi had to use an M2.5 screw, and the M2.5 nut simply doesnt engage at all. so i made my own by cutting down a penny into an oblong shape, and trapping that in place with the M2.5 nut.

i did come up with one novel hack im pleased with. i wanted to run electrical wire in some of the slots, but i couldnt use zip ties to hold it in place like you see so commonly, because its got a truck for the linear actuator that rolls over it. i had used masking tape but after only a year it was peeling and the wires were popping out and rubbing on the trucks. so, as an exercise in printing the smallest details, i made little things you can slide inside the slot, and then twist with needle-nose pliers to lock into place. it was the fiddliest thingthe parts are mechanically next to worthless. but i put a couple dozen in the printer back in 2015 and theyve simply stayed in place.

Weve used 8020 for a number of projects around here. My favorite is the sliding rail system that allows my overhead Robotic Camera system to do duty for reading along with Newspapers and websites on tablets for our various shows. Since the configuration of the largest studio can vary with the show being taped, the camera had to be in multiple locations for use. The system we designed allows for use within a 106 area that encompasses the main staging for most shows.

I used to work in a candle factory. Almost all of our guarding was made from 80/20. The beauty of the stuff is its about 1/4 in the groove. Build a box to cover the machine then cut plexiglass/polycaronate sheet to fit the box and presto. You got a guard to keep hands out of the machine. https://www.slideshare.net/knottsco/8020-guarding-flipbook. Some great examples in the link. We also built custom machines out of the extrusions that were simply amazing. Custom drills for boring wick holes in three wick block candles etc. Great stuff to work with.

I always use to think why would I want to spend the money (for a computer desk) to build with extrusion when I can just build it with wood. With the current lumber prices, this may very well be the better way to go across the board.

I buy t-slot at a local scrap yard for the aluminum scrap price- usually about $1-2 per lb. No, I dont get to pick and choose I have to take whatever size(s) they have, but I dont build stuff from someone elses BOM anyway. I generally find it best to acquire major parts first, then measure, model, and design around them.

I prefer to bolt the t-slot directly together and usually skip the L brackets and plates. That requires square cut ends, but I have access to a milling machine at Milwaukee Makerspace so not a problem for me. I see a lot of printers built with 20 mm t-slot and then all the corners are full of L brackets and plates in an attempt to stiffen the frame, but those add-ons cant prevent the beams from flexing. People really should be using larger cross section t-slot. The extra stiffness would eliminate the need for most of the brackets and plates. I suspect the cost of larger t-slot is lower than the cost of the smaller stuff plus all the extra hardware.

Slotted extrusions have one very important drawback, in that designs where structures undergo torsional deformation are to be avoided. U Channel, round and rectangular tube are typically less expensive, but are somewhat physically heavier. Personally, I prefer a rectangular tube in mild steel option, as tacking something together with a welder saves a fortune in fasteners and assembly time. I dont think I have actually ever seen a slotted extrusion product that didnt have a weird bend or twist in it from the factory. If I recall correctly, it is because of how most slotted-channels are pulled straight at the end of production prior to cutting. A linear rail based on such products sounds frankly like a sledgehammer with a noodle for a handle. I cant see how these could hold dimensional tolerances for very long. Not inconceivable mind you, but just seems rather delicate considering what most designers would expect at that scale. ;-)

Yes, it should be noted that extrusions are not known for their dimensional accuracy. The better systems such as 8020 have their tolerances listed in their specifications. Extrusions are also prone to bending and warping. Also, most supplier cuts are usually only to within 1/16. In addition, aluminium has a large thermal coefficient of expansion. What this all means is that they systems arent as suitable for building precision CNC machines out of as many people believe. Good design is needed to minimise thermal effects, and careful assembly needed to keep things square. Itd be difficult to do a great job without a surface plate, a height gage and decent reference square. You might need to sacrifice the anodization to get flat surfaces too.

Great, I wanted to vent about my recent extrusion purchase. I bought 80/20 20 series T-slot. Lots of it. The problem is that 80/20 20 series is different than actual 2020 extrusion. The slots are only 5.25mm wide while everything on amazon has 6mm wide slots. Almost everything on thingiverse is for 6mm slots.

Though most Lego is now in the form of kits to build specific things, the real utility of Lego is to have a tub of 2000-3000 pieces, and build your own designs as they occur to you. Same with Erector/Meccano.

So where does one buy a similar kit of a few dozen pieces of extrusion, with a gazillion connectors, plates, etc.? Ideally with stepper motors, timing belt, different sized toothed wheels, etc. Sort of a professional upgrade from Erector/Meccano for building functional prototypes.

MakerBeam is mentioned above. RatRig maybe? Perhaps theres an opening in the market for something like that a larger Erector set for mechanical engineering. Although the price tag would probably be very steep.

I had a Vex robotics kit many years ago. I didnt use it much, but I liked collecting larger motors, linear actuators, and batteries and building things with those. Maybe because that kind of kit is very limiting at larger scales, where a motor has to have the right power/weight/shape to fit the project.

I designed an angle-with-holes (like contraptor) profile, and a T-slot one. The angle one was 20mm on a side, 2mm thick, with holes every 20mm at 5mm from the borders, 5.2mm in diameters. The T-slot one was pretty much a clone of misumi 2020, just re-drawn from scratch.

The places in Europe were way too expensive. The place in India was a bit more expensive than the ones in China, but I happened to have somebody who could help we communicate with India people, so I worked on getting a sample from India. The sample Igot was absolutely terrible. *All* dimensions out of (the very clearly defined) specs. One of the sides was TWENTY TWO millimeters (21.9+) instead of 20 plus or minus 0.1.

When I complained, nicely, asking for a second sample, Iwas insulted in vicious ways I have not experienced before or since in business. Like, out of nowhere saying really nasty things about my mother, demeaning me etc.

This guy didnt do a service to his country. I havent done *any* business with India since, not once (and have done business with China hundreds of times). Until somebody shows me otherwise, I consider India a lawless wasteland full of terrible people. Recently I talked to somebody who wanted to resell Smoothieboards in India, but this experience was in the back of my mind the whole time

Incredible communication and service, the best price, *free* samples (they happened to have a die that was very close to what I wanted, and I switched to that shape/die, but the sample/die price wasnt too bad either if I had had to use my own profile design and didnt (re-)use theirs).

I produced nearly a ton of profiles, had them shipped to my place, which was quite an adventure, my first time learning international shipping with containers etc. Experience that would later be useful when I started selling Smoothieboard-powered laser cutters and CNC mills.

I find that the extrusions themselves are fairly cheap, but all the brackets, special nuts, connector pieces, have absolutely stupid prices and companies expect you to buy a box of thousand or charge you five bucks per nut, or buy the box AND charge you five bucks per nut, and the local suppliers are only interested in selling to companies that basically buy the whole catalog at once when theyre fitting a factory or a new production line.

The stuff I get at the local scrap yard usually has a lot of hardware attached. In fact I often have to disassemble the stuff myself and grab as much of that normally expensive hardware as I can for the steel scrap price while Im getting the t-slot for the aluminum scrap price. I get brackets, plates, t-nuts and screws, hinges, door handles, feet, etc. Of course, I usually have to spend some time cleaning the stuff off, too.

Even if you have to buy it new, the larger cross section t-slot doesnt usually cost much more than the smaller stuff and is MUCH stiffer, eliminating the need for a lot of the extra hardware that people buy to try to stiffen up the smaller t-slot.

Square/rectangular tubing is cheaper, lighter, and stiffer than same size t-slot. T-slot is great if you need to bolt things on and do a lot of experimenting or plan on taking the thing apart to reuse the pieces. If youre building a one-off, rectangular tubing is the way to go. You can attach things with cheap, self-tapping or sheet metal screws. Tubes can be joined with 3D printed corners and/or metal plates and screws as you probably would do with t-slot using expensive t-nuts and screws.

Ive been working with the 3030 and 4040, 40120 stuff, and you still need a large number of connector pieces to make things work. End caps, plates corner braces when each corner bracket piece costs $10 and you need three for every corner of a box, thats $240 already. L-brackets for securing the top table and the bottom shelf, $8 x 18 is $144, plus the extrusion itself, plus the special nuts and bolts pretty soon you have a $1000 bill of materials for a simple frame that was supposed to be cheap and easy to build.

And all that stuff ends up weighing about 500 pounds in the end so you can forget about wheeling it around on little caster wheels. In retrospect we should have gone with steel tube and sheet metal, and simply welded the thing together, but the plans were handed down and said, make this happen.

Some of the manufacturers of extruded components have CAD software where you can design and visualize structures. When you are done designing, the software spits out a BOM and a quote, you can also order and pay when you are ready. For example, Rexroth (I am NOT affiliated) offers MTpro, which seems to be free to download. They just offered the 5.6GB mtprosetup5000_x64.ZIP file to me when I clicked download, it didnt ask me for anything, not even my Email address. (That shake-down probably comes later. Sorry, I dont have time to test drive it at the moment.)

I work at item24, they are the founder of the aluminum extrusion profile. We therefore say your ideas are worth it. With our extensive package there are so many possibilities. See, for example, our engineering tool that anyone can draw for free.

Yeah but that approach has a lot of holes. You would need to import a LOT of models for rails, joins fasteners etc. Then there needs to be a set of rules for what works with what. And then theres the layer that build the BOM.

I only recently became aware of aluminium extrusions (aka profiles) when someone posted an arcade stick build to Reddit. They used extrusions for the frame, and laser-cut acrylic for the top and bottom. It worked really well. The case for an arcade stick is kind of notoriously hard to make well, and good-quality cases are upwards of 90, so this was kind of an important new approach for the enthusiast community. Im now kind of obsessed lol

In a former life we used Bosch extrusions to make frames to hang stuff on in an industrial environment. We used the 4545 and 4590 mm sizes. I never noticed any significant twisting or bending in them; they seemed straight and square as delivered. I thought of the 4590 ones as aluminum 2x4s. We mostly used cast gussets to join them, attached with T bolts and nuts.

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2016-2020 camaro accessories, parts

We know Camaros as pure muscle cars with stylish curves that people just cant get enough of. We also know that the aftermarket industry offers owners plenty of options to add more power and style to their already stout looking beast. Here at Southern Car Parts, we bring you all of those aftermarket options all in one place for your one-stop shop for Camaro parts and accessories.

Southern Car Parts likes to hear it when our customers want to add performance to their Camaros. We understand that not everyone has the mechanically skills to do a complete engine overhaul, but we do offer plenty of Camaro performance parts that can be done right in your driveway with a simple set of tools. Like our cold air intake selection. Our2016-2020 Camaro Air Intake Systems can usually be installed within 90 minutes using basic tools that just about everyone with a garage has. They are generally good for adding up to 10-20 horsepower and 10-25 pound-feet of torque. We carry brands like K&N, Mishimoto, Airaid, aFe and more.

Other affordable and easy upgrades we carry is our 2016-2020 Camaro Skip Shift Eliminator. These Camaro aftermarket parts are designed to disable the Computer Aided Gear Selection (CAGS) that shifts your Camaro from 1st to 4th when driving at a certain RPMs. If you hate the CAGS, then this part installs in 5 minutes with minimum tools required (automatic only). If you have a manual and you want to have some fun, try our 2016-2020 Camaro Hurst Billet Plus Classic Ball Shifter. This will give you a nice firm grip on your shifter and a shorter path between gears. The short throw function allows you to hit gears more quickly and more efficiently. Aftermarket spark plug wires, Airaid throttle body spacers for your V6 and many other simple Camaro accessories that can make your Camaro driving experience more exhilarating can all be found on our performance pages.

Exhaust systems may not be the easiest 6th Gen Camaro parts to install, but after they are installed, without a doubt they are one of the funniest. Our 2016-2020 Camaro Exhaust Systems not only help you gain a little extra horsepower and better fuel economy, but the feeling of a rumbling exhaust system on a muscle car like the Camaro is a feeling like no other. Our exhaust Camaro parts for your muscle car include exhaust headers, cat-back systems, X-Pipes, NPP exhaust systems, catalytic converter delete pipes and much more. We have many different exhaust Camaro parts to choose from so you can configure your own system. You can do a whole Camaro exhaust upgrade or just a partial one. Depending on how much power you want to get out of your Camaro exhaust upgrade and how much louder you want to go will determine how much of your exhaust you will probably be upgrading.

Having a Camaro that performs well is all good and fun, but adding some extra exterior Camaro custom parts so it looks the part is even better. A front splitter with winglets can really add a race car vibe to your Camaro. A set of splash guards is a set of Chevy Camaro accessories that can both add some flair to the wheel wells and protect your paint from minor road grime that spins off of your tires. A Camaro rear spoiler can always help you add a speed demon look to your Camaro. Our rear spoiler from ACS is a mean but sleek looking spoiler that goes over great wherever you go. This completely functional product helps out at the racetrack and looks so good it goes over great at car shows and cruises. Other exterior Camaro accessories we carry are front grille inserts, blacked out bow-tie emblems, decals and stripes, custom painted fuel doors, painted brake caliper covers and more. If youre trying to add that special exterior look to your Camaro, then look no further, we have the 2016-2020 Camaro accessories you need.

Although those exterior Camaro parts are oftentimes observed much more often by other people, your interior and under the hood appearance could always use a little customizing as well. Our engine bay dress up kits offer you plenty of different options including stainless steel and painted part options to give your Camaros engine bay a little kick. From covers and caps to engine strut braces, if you want to head to the car show and lift up your hood and show off with pride, youre shopping in the right place. Our Camaro accessories for your interior are much the same. There are plenty of places you can add color to. Our painted Camaro center consoles, door panel overlays, door panel trim kits and colored cushion knee pad trim kits are just few parts that can help add color. It just takes a little imagination and of course a great selection of interior trim parts from us to add that little spunk your interior needs.

Take a look around, youll find we have lowering kits, car covers, Lloyd floor mats, Camaro apparel and much more for the Camaro enthusiast. For all of your 2016-2020 Camaro accessories and part needs, give us a call at Southern Car Parts today!