HOW TO SETUP AND USE THE HAND OPERATEDROCK CRUSHER:The rock crusher is shipped with the handle screwed to the inside of the flywheel. This must be reversed. In the case of the double flywheel version there are two handles. The handle has two flats to accept a 24mm spanner right against the flywheel. Use a 24 spanner or a shifting spanner to hold it still. The nut on the other side of the flywheel is a 30mm spanner. Unscrew the nut and re-mount the handle(s) on the outside so the flywheel can rotate.
The crusher should be mounted on a base for a safe operation. For mobile work it is desirable to mount it on a metal plate or bolt it down on a temporary concrete slab. If the crusher is used on one place only, a sloping base (see picture) can be made for it. The slope makes it very easy to remove the crushed stone. The surface the machine is being bolted onto must be flat. If it is not the frame will be twisted as it is bolted down and it will not work properly. If the surface is already finished and it is not flat, use steel shims under the feet so that when it is bolted tight to the base the frame has not been twisted.
1. There are three adjustment one can make on the Rock Crusher: Top adjustment of the fixed jaw, bottom adjustment of the fixed jaw and stroke adjustment for the swing jaw. Remember that the Fixed Jaw is invertible (can be turned upside down). So it can last you twice as long.
1.1 The adjustment on the top of the Rock Crusher allows you to move the top of the Fixed Jaw (which does not move when the handle is turned) closer to the Swing Jaw (the one that does move). It is used wide open (150mm opening) for crushing large pieces of rock down to a smaller size about 25-40mm. When crushing stone or rubble to a small size (i.e. below 16mm) it will be done in two or more stages for maximum production. The Swing Jaw setting is normally set on the bottom hole which gives the most movement back and forth. To crush rubble (broken cement blocks and concrete), first set the top of the Fixed Jaw to the maximum opening (150mm) and the bottom of the Fixed Jaw also to the maximum size. On the second pass, or when crushing small pieces, set the top of the Fixed Jaw to the 100 position. This is the centre of the three holes. Set the bottom of the Fixed Jaw to give you the final size you want. These smaller settings use a larger proportion of the jaws and crushes more pieces at a time. If the raw material will fit into the 100 or 50mm top opening, make the first pass with a smaller opening unless the material is particularly hard.
1.2 The second adjustment is at the bottom of the Fixed Jaw. This sets the distance between the bottom of the Fixed Jaw and the bottom of the Swing Jaw. The smaller the setting, the smaller the stone has to be in order to pass out of the machine. Do not try to crush stone or rubble down to a small size in one pass. It takes too much time as the lowest teeth have to do most of the grinding.
Pull the pin out of the square bar at the bottom of the Fixed Jaw and align it with the hole that suits the job at hand. There are 5 pin holes and three positions for the Square Bar. This gives 15 steps of 2 mm each. There are four holes in a row with the lowest one giving the smallest size and the top one much larger. The hole out of line near the bottom hole gives the biggest size.
Make the bottom spacing between the jaws in the range of 25 35mm (pin in top hole or in the hole that is out of line). This is the normal setting for the First Pass. After crushing rubble (which will generate some dust and small pieces) use a sieve and take out the larger pieces for re-crushing and make cement blocks with what passes through the sieve.
The third adjustment is the pin at the back of the Swing Jaw. See the three numbered holes in the picture. The pin is much tighter to remove than the other two because it passes through two bearings. Give it a good stiff yank. Clean it if necessary.
The bottom pin has three possible settings. When the pin is in the bottom position (1, and passes through the bearings) the bottom lip of the Swing Jaw moves up and down as well as back and forth slightly. This position passes the most material through the machine per turn. It also allows a large range of sizes to pass through. For example, if the bottom position is used and the Fixed Jaw is set so that the gap between the jaws is 15mm then the Rock Crusher will actually pass out 15-20mm pieces.
If you put in the third pin in the top-most position (3), the range of size produced is reduced. The capacity in wheelbarrows per day is also reduced as it takes more time to pass the pieces through as the Swing Jaw no longer opens and closes at the bottom releasing the stones. The middle setting (2) is a compromise between the two others, allowing a modest range of sizes through. Another type ofhand powered rock crusher.
Crushing rubble for brick making: Set the bottom pin of the Fixed Jaw to the bottom hole nearest to the Swing Jaw. This will make the gap about 6 to 8mm. The handle on the Square Bar cannot be turned to a fine adjustment (2mm each) when the jaws are this close together the pin must be removed, the Square Bar rotated, and the pin re-inserted if you want to change the spacing of the jaws. Re-grind the material sieved out of the first pass. It might be as little as 1/4 of the original volume. It will generate a lot of very small particles and has a slower throughput than before. Sieve the output again for any flat flakes that have made it through the whole process uncrushed. Keep these aside and dump them in when the next batch goes through for a second pass.
The larger, 3 inch diameter, boreon this hand powered crusher/dolly pot makes it perfect for larger hard rock samples. The unit stands roughly 9" high at the handle and weighs a little over 12 lbs, which should give you an idea of just how much steel is involved in its construction. This is a very solid little ore crusher.
The CrazyCrusher brand Rock Crusher is 100 percent steel, and it is 100 percent made in the U.S.A. by 100 percent Americans! The jaws are made of 3/8 steel, and the face has horizontal welds across them that not only help grip and pull down rock pieces, it also prevents wear on the actual jaws. On the moving jaw, vertical "teeth" were added to help dig in and crack the hardest rocks! The adjustable jaw moves from a 1/2 inch opening to all the way closed, for that final grind to get your samples as small as you can for testing. The very bottom of the jaws is what does the "grinding" of the rock into sand sized particles and smaller, some so small it is "air borne". Eventually, like all things, the jaws can wear away, but with this style of adjustable jaw, you can keep moving it in tight for a long time!
Although this item was first invented and patented for crushing ore in the field, this handy machine has also been discovered by a different group of users for the purpose of crushing glass for artwork, also known as "frit glass" which ranges in size from an uncooked grain of rice and finer. The Crazycrusher works perfect for this! The user gets to control the size more accurately due to the crushed glass falling out of the crusher in lieu of being in a pestle and mortar and just re-crushing everything by pounding sand." Especially for those artisans who work with large quantities of glass, they can do it better and faster with a handy Crazy Crusher!
USING THE CRAZYCRUSHER The smaller the rocks, the further down it will go into the jaws, and the easier it is to crush it finer. The upper part of the moving jaw is primarily a forward and back motion, whereas the lower part of the jaw is primarily an up and down motion. NEVER operate the CrazyCrusher with the steel safety plate open! Initial breaking of rocks can and will cause chips to fly out of the top. The safety plate is designed to keep the chips inside the crusher where they belong not in your eyes! It is highly advisable to wear good leather gloves or mechanics gloves while working this rock crusher to avoid getting blisters. A catch container is included with the rock crusher. Start with the adjustable plate fully open by turning the adjusting screw counter-clockwise, then turn it in a couple turns. Open the safety plate, put your rock(s) in, close the safety plate and press down on the handle harder and harder until it breaks. If it does not break immediately, give it a few "slams" up and down, putting some weight behind it. If you plan on grinding the rock to a fine sand, have the classifying screen handy in a pan or something. Once no more pieces are coming out, dump your catch container into the screen and shake the screen. What does not go through the screen and into your pan can be dumped back in to the crusher after you put your catch container back under the crusher and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to about a 1/4" gap between the lower jaw area when the handles are in the down position. Pour the remaining rock particles back in from your screen into the jaws, close the safety plate and work it again, repeating the process until all the sample passes through your selected screen. To grind a sample, or to grind black sands for further processing, simply close the adjustable jaw until it is resting against the moving jaw. Raise and lower the handle a couple times to assure it is closed all the way and you have full movement of the arms. Starting with the handle in the down position, pour in a few tablespoons of black sands into the CrazyCrusher, and start working the handle up and down until no more sand is coming out. Short choppy strokes work better than full strokes. A grinding operation will create small amounts of ai-borne dust. It is ALWAYS important to either wear a dust mask or be sure to be up wind of the dust. The reason is that you do not know what is in that rock! There could be arsenic and other nasty things in the ore so you don't want to be breathing in that dust! A dust mask is important, especially when using a drywasher! There could be Haunta virus in the sand, mercury you never know, so please wear a quality dust mask!
If you decide not to take your crusher out in the field to crush ore samples on site, then as you collect samples, mark them with a reference number, Location #1, #2, etc., and make a notation on paper of that number, and include the GPS coordinates of the exact location you found that particular sample.
After collecting samples from many places, and when you have time to crush and analyze the ore, you will know without a doubt where you got those samples! It's advisable to get several plastic containers that you can put your crushed ore in, with a larger piece of the ore to identify the rock your material came from. This way you can crush dozens of different samples, store them together and run your tests later down the road. You never know what you will find inside that particular rock, and knowing where you found it is invaluable. If only the miners and prospectors in the olden days had had a GPS there would not be any "lost mine" stories to read, or to look for!
Crushers have become larger and larger as the demand for stone increased. possible to produce a manually operated machine for making crushed stone in small quantities. 3 people operating the Rock Crusher, taking turns at the handle.