sand like particles in washing machine

7 ways to improve sand washing efficiency - jxsc machine

Our sales and engineering team has received a lot of questions about those questions related to efficiency and productivity from buyers and customers, so in this article, were going to share 7 ways to improve efficiency of sand washing machines like the wheel sand washer or spiral sand washer.

During the cleaning process of the sand washer, it is necessary to prevent impurities from affecting the cleaning effect of the finished product. In addition, it is necessary to prevent materials with high hardness from entering the inside of the machine, which will cause wear to the equipment and reduce the service life.

If the liquid level is too low, the cleaning effect cannot be achieved; while the liquid level is too high, water resources are wasted, but the ideal cleaning effect is not achieved, and the ore is likely to overflow. The amount of materials for one-time cleaning must be within the specified range, otherwise it is prone to failure.

Ore concentration is the main factor that needs to be adjusted during the operation of the sand washing machine. It is related to the graded particle size and also related to the processing capacity under this particle size.

The processing capacity of the sand washing machine reaches the maximum under the critical concentration. The critical concentration is related to the specified graded particle size and changes with the density of the ore and the mud content.

The higher the ore density or the lower the mud content, the higher the critical concentration, and vice versa Of course, the relationship between the critical concentration and the graded particle size is the same as the mud content, that is, the lower the graded particle size, the smaller the critical concentration.

The production capacity of the sand washing machine is related to the properties of sand and gravel, including the hardness, density, mud content, particle size of the sand and gravel materials. For example, the uneven sand and gravel materials and their own different attributes may affect the processing capacity of the sand washing equipment. The density of the material is directly proportional to the production capacity of the sand washing machine. The influence of mud content and ore size is mainly reflected in the viscosity of the slurry, which reduces the viscosity and increases the sedimentation speed of mineral particles. The processing capacity and classification accuracy of the sand washing machine will be better.

The sand washer should be placed in a suitable location, it can be placed on a flat ground, or placed at a high place, but the plane must be hard enough, and it must not be placed close to the water source. These places are prone to collapse. Cause unnecessary production troubles. In addition, there must be sufficient production space to ensure stable material transportation and production, and sufficient storage space for machine-made sand after cleaning to avoid secondary pollution.

According to our research, more than 60% of low or affected production capacity may be caused by the error or Illegal operation. Poor technical level will affect the normal operation of the equipment, and will greatly reduce the production efficiency of the sand washing machine. In some cases, those wrong operations may even break the equipment.

In the long-term production and operation process, the sand washing machine will affect the sand washing effect and efficiency due to various problems. If you also encounter this problem in future production, you may wish to check the above 7 aspects to find the right cause and prescribe the right medicine.

Our sales and engineering team has received a lot of questions about those questions related to efficiency and productivity from buyers and customers, so in this article, were going to share 7 ways to improve efficiency of sand washing machines like the wheel sand washer or spiral sand washer.

During the cleaning process of the sand washer, it is necessary to prevent impurities from affecting the cleaning effect of the finished product. In addition, it is necessary to prevent materials with high hardness from entering the inside of the machine, which will cause wear to the equipment and reduce the service life.

If the liquid level is too low, the cleaning effect cannot be achieved; while the liquid level is too high, water resources are wasted, but the ideal cleaning effect is not achieved, and the ore is likely to overflow. The amount of materials for one-time cleaning must be within the specified range, otherwise it is prone to failure.

Ore concentration is the main factor that needs to be adjusted during the operation of the sand washing machine. It is related to the graded particle size and also related to the processing capacity under this particle size.

The processing capacity of the sand washing machine reaches the maximum under the critical concentration. The critical concentration is related to the specified graded particle size and changes with the density of the ore and the mud content.

The higher the ore density or the lower the mud content, the higher the critical concentration, and vice versa Of course, the relationship between the critical concentration and the graded particle size is the same as the mud content, that is, the lower the graded particle size, the smaller the critical concentration.

The production capacity of the sand washing machine is related to the properties of sand and gravel, including the hardness, density, mud content, particle size of the sand and gravel materials. For example, the uneven sand and gravel materials and their own different attributes may affect the processing capacity of the sand washing equipment. The density of the material is directly proportional to the production capacity of the sand washing machine. The influence of mud content and ore size is mainly reflected in the viscosity of the slurry, which reduces the viscosity and increases the sedimentation speed of mineral particles. The processing capacity and classification accuracy of the sand washing machine will be better.

The sand washer should be placed in a suitable location, it can be placed on a flat ground, or placed at a high place, but the plane must be hard enough, and it must not be placed close to the water source. These places are prone to collapse. Cause unnecessary production troubles. In addition, there must be sufficient production space to ensure stable material transportation and production, and sufficient storage space for machine-made sand after cleaning to avoid secondary pollution.

According to our research, more than 60% of low or affected production capacity may be caused by the error or Illegal operation. Poor technical level will affect the normal operation of the equipment, and will greatly reduce the production efficiency of the sand washing machine. In some cases, those wrong operations may even break the equipment.

In the long-term production and operation process, the sand washing machine will affect the sand washing effect and efficiency due to various problems. If you also encounter this problem in future production, you may wish to check the above 7 aspects to find the right cause and prescribe the right medicine.

why is there dirty residue in my washing machine?

According to Simply Good Stuff, dirty residue in a washing machine is usually caused by either insufficient cleaning or mechanical failure. Simply Good Stuff notes that better cleaning, as well as vigilant inspection of the washing machine, can help eliminate dirty residue.

According to Simply Good Stuff, dirty residue in a washing machine is usually caused by either insufficient cleaning or mechanical failure. Simply Good Stuff notes that better cleaning, as well as vigilant inspection of the washing machine, can help eliminate dirty residue.

While washing machines are designed to wash out dirt and soil, build-up occurs in the hoses, pump and tub. This build-up typically comes from hard water and detergents used to wash clothes, and it may be building up every time the washing machine is used. Simply Good Stuff points out that this build-up keeps the washing machine from performing properly, leading to even more build-up of dirty residue. Additionally, abrasive minerals may accumulate along with the residue, making clothes wear out faster. The washing machine can be cleaned by running a hot cycle with two cups of vinegar, which loosens residue and cleans both the fabric softener receptacle and the bleach dispenser.

While washing machines are designed to wash out dirt and soil, build-up occurs in the hoses, pump and tub. This build-up typically comes from hard water and detergents used to wash clothes, and it may be building up every time the washing machine is used. Simply Good Stuff points out that this build-up keeps the washing machine from performing properly, leading to even more build-up of dirty residue. Additionally, abrasive minerals may accumulate along with the residue, making clothes wear out faster. The washing machine can be cleaned by running a hot cycle with two cups of vinegar, which loosens residue and cleans both the fabric softener receptacle and the bleach dispenser.

According to Simply Good Stuff, mechanical failure can also contribute to build-ups of dirty residue. Hoses must be checked for signs of extreme wear or leaks, as damaged or worn hoses can also lead to the washing machine not performing correctly. The typical manufacturer recommendation is to replace these hoses every 5 years.

According to Simply Good Stuff, mechanical failure can also contribute to build-ups of dirty residue. Hoses must be checked for signs of extreme wear or leaks, as damaged or worn hoses can also lead to the washing machine not performing correctly. The typical manufacturer recommendation is to replace these hoses every 5 years.

sand washing machine, sand washing working process

The sand washing machine has the potential to take away mud and dust from sand. The brand new style of sealing structure as well as dependable driving device adopted by the sand washer promise the helpful cleansing perform.The sand washing machine has advantages of higher reduction ratio, reduced vitality and water consumption and lower fine sand wasting.

Mineral sand washing machine is applied for washing applications in mineral processing plant, concrete batching plant, and industries like building materials production, transportation, chemistry, water conservancy, etc. Our mineral washing machine is a highly efficient machine which is designed on the basis of the detailed washing needs in mining industry and comes with features like good washing effect, reasonable structure, large capacity, and less materials loss during washing process. The transmission part of mineral washing machine is isolated from water and specific material, which could greatly reduce the error rate of the machine.

Sand washing machine is widely used to rough and select manganese, in particular best for the manganese ore particles buried in the soil. Its handing capacity is greater and is the ideal equipment for the businesses that are required for great productivity of ore and stone cleanliness.

At existing, loads of big scale construction projects and production lines are in need of much sand aggregate. The machine made sand has a broad choice of applications in contemporary times. The brand new generation of sand recovery gadget can take care of the waste water swiftly and correctly in an effort to get fine sand and stone powder mixed within the waste water. An ideal combination on the sand recovery device as well as the sand washer prevents the natural environment pollution and reduced yield complications brought on through the sand wasting. All this can lead to great financial earnings for customers and can push the social economy forward.

In the mineral processing plant, the mineral washing machine plays an important role in it. The mineral washing machine also has a standard level working principle. When the mineral washing machine is working, the electric motor runs slowly with the impellor after decelerated by the belt, decelerator and gears wheel. The sand and stone flow into washing launder from feeding launder, rolls with the impellor, and grinds each other. The impurity covering the sand is washing away. At the same time, add more water, the strong water flow will take away waste and some low-weight wastes from washing launder. Through the above process, the washing function is finished.

The clean sand and stone is lift up by vane. When it goes up slowly, the water begins to drop through the mesh and fall back in the washing launder. On one hand, water is removed from the sand and stone; on the other hand, the water can be fully used. Finally, the sand and stone goes to the out launder from the rotary impellor to finish the washing task.

During the production line, the waste water discharged from the sand washer has contained a lot mud and fine sand which will easily lead to the settling pond to block and bring about the fine sand to run off. In this case, we are able to use the sand recovery device to acquire the sand.

The fine sand recovery device is applied to cut back the waste of your fine sand. It may not only enhance the merchandise excellent of the machine-made sand, but also boost the machine produced sand manufacturing quantity, which will produce significant financial benefit.

The sand recovery device will acquire the waste sand as a result of the wet production technologies, as a result creating it a higher productive recycling gadget with the skill to increase the yield and cut down pollution.

the beach glass machine | evil mad scientist laboratories

Walking the beach with the kids, one of our favorite pastimes is collecting shells, bits of sea glass and other rocks. We typically put them in buckets, sort them when we get home, and then put them in the garden except for the few special ones that the kids keep on their dresser. In the process of making a garden path which stretches 50 feet long and is 2.5 feet wide, I thought, how cool would that look if it were some sort of mosaic of sea glass! Snapping back to reality I realized how much time would be required to collect that much sea glass and got discouraged. But (eureka!) you can make your own. All you need is some glass, some sand, sea water and some way of mimicking the ocean and (bam!) you get sea glass. I wanted to do large volumes, so I borrowed my uncles cement mixer to mimic the ocean. The steel fins inside mimic large rocks. I started breaking wine bottles into small pieces and stole some sand from the kids play box, adding it all to the mixer. Since I didnt have any sea water handy I just filled it with tap water and turned it on. After an hour I checked and the sharp edges were all broken off, after two hours there was some frosting and smoothing and after 4 hours et voil I had sea glass! With the capacity of the mixer I will have my garden path in no time. I plan on experimenting with other media and time duration and will report on my progress in the future. An ordinary hardware store cement mixer, tap water, and play sand. Simpler and more environmentally friendly than using many other common abrasives that are used with rock tumblers. Add glass and allow to run for several hours. After running, drain the excess the sand-water slurry through a coarse screen. After dumping out the excess and some of the glass. This batch was made with a mixture of broken green and brown glass, mostly from wine jugs, and allowed to run for four hours. Below are some pictures of glass allowed to run for different lengths of time. Heres what the raw glass looks like, zero hours in the mixer. These pieces were pulled out after one hour in the mixer. Their sharp edges are broken, and theres light etching of the surfaces. These pieces were pulled out after two hours in the mixer. The shapes are slightly more rounded, and the surfaces are beginning to frost heavily. And after four hours, the pieces begin to look a lot like what you might find washed up on a sandy beach. While it will be interesting to see how the pieces change over longer pieces of time, you probably dont want to go too much longer (and wear them too much thinner) if youre making mosaic pieces for people to walk on.

In the process of making a garden path which stretches 50 feet long and is 2.5 feet wide, I thought, how cool would that look if it were some sort of mosaic of sea glass! Snapping back to reality I realized how much time would be required to collect that much sea glass and got discouraged. But (eureka!) you can make your own. All you need is some glass, some sand, sea water and some way of mimicking the ocean and (bam!) you get sea glass.

I wanted to do large volumes, so I borrowed my uncles cement mixer to mimic the ocean. The steel fins inside mimic large rocks. I started breaking wine bottles into small pieces and stole some sand from the kids play box, adding it all to the mixer. Since I didnt have any sea water handy I just filled it with tap water and turned it on. After an hour I checked and the sharp edges were all broken off, after two hours there was some frosting and smoothing and after 4 hours et voil I had sea glass! With the capacity of the mixer I will have my garden path in no time. I plan on experimenting with other media and time duration and will report on my progress in the future.

This batch was made with a mixture of broken green and brown glass, mostly from wine jugs, and allowed to run for four hours. Below are some pictures of glass allowed to run for different lengths of time.

Heres what the raw glass looks like, zero hours in the mixer. These pieces were pulled out after one hour in the mixer. Their sharp edges are broken, and theres light etching of the surfaces. These pieces were pulled out after two hours in the mixer. The shapes are slightly more rounded, and the surfaces are beginning to frost heavily. And after four hours, the pieces begin to look a lot like what you might find washed up on a sandy beach. While it will be interesting to see how the pieces change over longer pieces of time, you probably dont want to go too much longer (and wear them too much thinner) if youre making mosaic pieces for people to walk on.

And after four hours, the pieces begin to look a lot like what you might find washed up on a sandy beach. While it will be interesting to see how the pieces change over longer pieces of time, you probably dont want to go too much longer (and wear them too much thinner) if youre making mosaic pieces for people to walk on.

I have not collected a lot of beach glass in my life, but what I have collected (mostly at Ft. Bragg on the CA coast) has been rounder and thicker than these pieces. I know that Ft. Braggs glass is the result of early residents dumping their trash into the ocean. Maybe antique jars and bottles were made of thicker glass than wine and beer bottles are today? Are there any commonly available sources of thicker, colored glass?

If the curvature isnt important to you, you could also consider contacting a local stained glass shop to see what they do with their scrap. Personally, Im lucky in that Im within a couple hours drive of an art glass manufacturer, from whom I can buy scrap (odd shapes, 4-6" diameter) for a dollar a pound. They remelt their cullet, but I know some other companies sell cullet in bulk to glass artists and others.

Seriously though, as long as the pieces are anchored to something supportive (e.g. embedded in concrete) itll probably be okay. Glass can shatter from impacts but is surprisingly durable against simple compressive force, and a persons weight will be spread out among a large number of pieces.

If it freezes where you live, be aware that glass and concrete expand and contract at different rates with temperature change, and the glass will crack. As long as it doesnt come loose from the concrete (un-imbedded?) it should be OK.

Glass is a common aggregate in concrete, though generally not in structural uses. It generally creates a lighter concrete. I dont think there is any difference in the CTE between glass and concrete. From what I have read, the main problems are with the alkali-silica reaction and contamination. Wash the glass well, use low-silica cement, and make sure you use air entrainment additives and you should have long lasting non-structural concrete.

Ive used recycled glass aggregate (actually created from recycled glass in a hardened foam) for a lighter than water concrete canoe, and it worked excellent. This looks like a cool project, and I hope it turns out well.

I have some stepping stones with stained glass scraps on concrete. The pieces are various shapes and sizes, some 6 inches long. They are in grout on pre-made concrete stones. They have been outside for over 10 years and nothing has cracked or come off.

On a small island in the gulf of Thailand, Koh Tao, there is a hotel/bungalows for rent/restaurant called OK view, and they have their steps (it is on a side of a mountain, so, lots of steps) lined with bottles, bottom up. Kerry who runs the place says they have been there over ten years, and almost none of them have broken down. And these are whole bottles with only one side embedded in concrete. So, Id say (judging from Kerrys steps) that it will work wonderfully! Agreeing, I am.

The slurry isnt jagged or anything, but I was concerned on just dumping it in the yard as I have chickens and Ducks free ranging all day. My solution is to use the slurry as an additive in my concrete projects. Works quite well.

For some weirdness, treat your broken glass to some muriatic acid, though Im not sure what kind of bucket to put it into. Check with the hardware store. The acid will eat the flat pieces of glass and create a pitted texture.

For even more weirdness, draw or write on the bottle with a fine sharpie, then break up the bottle, and treat it to an acid bath. The sharpie should resist the acid, and the acid should not etch the glass where the sharpie ink is. Then finish with the rock tumbler.

I did concrete work for a few years on someone elses crew; forming, steelwork, pouring and finishing. Acid washing exposed aggregate is the most interesting process, seeing the coloured rock appear from grey cream in green smoke!

Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) shouldnt eat glass at all, unless its very unusual glass (sugar glass maybe). Concentrated sulfuric, nitric and hydrochloric acids are all stored in glass containers without degradation for years. Alkali can eat glass over time and can corrode ground glass stoppers permanently into bottles. I have no experience with concrete and acids, however. Sounds spectacular.

I know that DIY is pretty much the point of this project, but for those who would like large quantities of beach glass and dont have access to a cement mixer (or the patience), you can actually buy tumbled glass in bunk from various suppliers (such as from http://www.vitrohue.com/tumbled.html).

Or, you can buy the real deal from me, http://www.tropicalseaglass.com. I find my sea glass on beaches in Hawaii. Ive been collectinf for a long time and I can ALWAYS spot the fake stuff. But, if you have a large project you cant expect to use all jewelry quality glass although I have some customers who have done just that!

Not everyone lives near a beach, and many beaches with good sea glass are protected by law so that you cant collect there. I dont see any use in referring to this as "fake" its real glass, tumbled in sand. Manmade, yes, but so is the glass.

Ive been photographing broken shards of antique Tiffany glass for the past three years in a project called Empire of Glass. The glass was rescued from being dumped into the East River during the Great Depression by my grandfather, and I can confirm that much like in this project, its "weathered" look formed over the years makes it just a magical material to work with. Louis Comfort Tiffany, arguably the greatest glassmaker of all time, understood that it was actually the impurities and not the perfection of the glass that made it great, and a lot of his glass was based on aquatic themes and imagery, so it seems that water and glass are indeed a proper match.

wow amazing mate..! you had such a cool idea. I loved the variuos photo at different time they stayed in the cement mixer.. We were using the same metod to clean the mixer when i was working in building..just that insted glass we were using rock in order to take off all the cement. Cool keep showing us you mad experiment !!

That was good thinking on your part to mass produce glass that mimicks sea glass to finish your project. Ive got one for you Mr. Evil Mad Scientist. Have you heard of " Hydration"? This is the process that occurs whilst glass is tumbling to and fro in the sea in order to achieve its frosted appearance. The process occurs over decades. If you would like to know more because after all your are a scientist check out my site http://www.mermaidspurseseaglass.com ..a lesson in sea glass. Happy Experimenting!

I have not really ever found any seaglass, but have thought about making some myself with a rock tumbler. However, my tumbler barrel is rubber. I like the idea of the cement mixer better. And I know I could buy some glass, either manmade or found, but I think it would be more fun to make it myself.

Of course, if I made it myself (or even if I purchased ocean-tumbled sea glass), I would disclose any of these facts for jewelry making purposes. I know there are a lot of purists when it comes to sea glass and I would call myself one. There is nothing wrong with making it ones self as long as it is disclosed if those items are to be sold.

Hi I noticed the date is quite old on this topic so appologies for dragging it up again, however I am trying to make a large quantity of beach glass for my garden and have followed your instructions and the results are no-where as good as yours. I have done it for 9 hours in 3 hour sessions yet mine are not even as good as your 1 hour photo. Could you be kind enough to tell me the ratio of glass/sand/water as closely as you can please?

What a great idea! My daughter and I have been kicking around the idea of making a mosaic topped table for years and we both loved your method of making your own glass pieces. I have a collection of wine bottles and old jars that I found in my Father-in-laws garage and we now have a use for them. Does the glass have to be close to the same thickness? Thanks.

We live in a small town and have a small town dump no longer in use. I have found many old broken glass containers in sapphire blues and even light purple. It is just all over the ground already broken in the right sizes. You might check into this if you have one near by. Now, I just need a cement mixer, what a fantastic idea! Thanks so much for your information.

solved: plastic bits draining out and in wash, as well as burning smell - kenmore elite he3 washing machine - ifixit

Hi, my washer made a lot of noise during the drain cycle, then spit out grey-like sand from where the water drains into the sink. this looked like bits of chewed up plastic with a gravel-like consistency. The washer kept thumping and not sure if I smelled something burning or it was just my anxiety at having to buy a new washer! The washing inside had tiny dark grey bits over it. My instinct tells me this is going to be a very expensive fix, does anyone know or have the same experience? Should i just buy a new one?

The good thing is that the tub has a limited 10-year warranty and the spin basket has a limited lifetime warranty. The basket and tub will be free of charge but you will be responsible for the service fee of $129.00 which includes the labor.

I recommend calling Sears at 1-800-4MY-HOME or 1-800-469-4663 and setting up a service appointment to have your washer repaired. I would also let the person know the model number and that it's going to need the spin basket and the front and rear tub assemblies. If the bellows is damaged, let them know that too, however you will have to pay for the bellows.

Our washer has been making lot of noise and thumping during the drain cycle and we also found bits of shredded plastic which is caused by the spin basket rubbing against the plastic tub. The drain under the machine was also clogged with plastic pieces. It's just outside the warranty period so I took it apart and found that the spin basket support spider is completely cracked in two of the three arms and it's only a matter of time before the entire basket breaks off. The tub has a deep groove from the basket rubbing. Attached are pictures of what it looks like and what caused it to be loose and off-balance and rub. The drum bearing is fine. Buying a new washer which isn't too much more than just the labor charges of getting it fixed.

brown flakes in washing machine how to solve the problem | tab-tv

There is a remark about washing machines of the following content. After washing in the washing machine, the laundry has brown flakes, these flakes dirty clothes. If you disassemble the washing machine, you can see that this brown substance covers the tank surface and other parts of the washing machine. Different attempts to remove these flakes do not bring any result. And as a rule, such problems occur in washing machines with top loading of laundry.

Many people think its mildew, but its not really mildew, its iron or manganese. The water may contain iron or manganese oxide, the visual presence of metals in the form of oxide is impossible to see. But when washing with detergents containing certain components, usually washing agents containing chlorine or active oxygen, a chemical reaction takes place, as a result of which iron and manganese particles crystallize and stick together to form flakes. In turn, these flakes stick to the parts of the washing machine and can sometimes form very interesting pictures. We are used to calling such deposits rust.

Iron or manganese is formed equally in a washing machine with front or top load. But due to the design of the front load washing machine, they are easily washed away before they stick to the parts of the washing machine. In a washing machine with vertical loading, especially in which the tank rotates in the horizontal plane, flakes accumulate in places where there is no strong stream of water, and this is at the bottom of the tank, stick, and as the mass of deposits increases, they tear off and get into the laundry. There is some constructive shortcoming of the washing machine, but when using water that does not contain iron oxides, there will be no problem.

The most correct way to influence flakes with citric acid or vinegar, but better with citric acid. It reacts with iron oxides, and in a gentle reaction without damaging metal surfaces. For this purpose, you can take a gram of 20-30 citric acid or the juice of two or three lemons. Dial half a bucket of water and add the juice or citric acid to the water, mix it in the washing machine and leave for 3-4 hours. After that, complete the washing cycle. Check if there are any flakes left, if there are any, repeat the cycle by doubling the time, the flakes have not had time to dissolve at the first cleaning, it may still be necessary to repeat the cleaning.

Simply removing the flakes will not solve the problem, it is necessary to remove the very reason causing the formation of brown flakes. Even if you clean the washing machine, after 5-10 washings of clothes, the problem of brown flakes will return.To solve the problem, look at the detergents you use, if there is chlorine or active oxygen in the description, such detergents are not suitable for you. Try another detergent. You can optionally install a water de-ironing station, but it is expensive. And you can change the washing machine, buy a new one that has no elements on which flakes can stay.

I read on the Tide website that their pods do not contain oxygen bleach. Ever since I have been using the pods I have not had this problem. https://tide.com/en-us/how-to-wash-clothes/how-to-do-laundry/everything-you-need-to-know-about-laundry-detergent

We replaced our top loader machine on moving into our new place with another top loader because of this issue and of course it is still a problem even with the new machine I never realized this was the case for top loader machines. Unless were willing to replace with a front loader, am I stuck with regular citric acid washes? I use tide liquid detergent, original scent, sometimes the HE version, which doesnt advertise containing chlorine or active oxygen, so I dont think its the detergent. I do want to clarify the lemon juice method, after I mix lemon juice and water I just pour that into the bottom of the machine and let it sit there for the 3-4 hours, followed by a wash cycle? Thank you.

You can try to determine why you are getting flakes. Take the same water that you use for the washing machine. Heat the water on the stove or bring it to a boil. See if any sediment appears. Add detergent to the water and repeat. See if there is any sediment in the water. As for cleaning, if you do not fix the problem, as a rule, cleaning should be done regularly after 4-5 washes of laundry.

Ive never experienced this until I moved into my current apartment that is an older top loader with an agitator. Can this issue also happen with top loaders that are full-size with no agitator and newer model? Your suggestion also says that if we buy a new machine, to buy one that has no elements that the flakes will not stick to. What are the elements to avoid?

Avoid washing machines that structurally have elements in which the water flow is weak. Some washing machine models have suffered from this because of the activator design. It is best to read the feedback of real users.