a) Place your index finger on top of the Tensioner Block and over the Nut to ensure that the Nut is held in position. b) Undo and loosen the bolt from under the arm of the clothesline. Once the bolt is fully loose, you can carefully remove the Tensioner Block Top & Nut.
Beside above, how much weight can a retractable clothesline hold? Retractable clothesline is 40 feet long to accommodate an entire load of laundry. The vinyl line quickly reels up when not in use. Designed for wall mounting, the sturdy bracket is made from rust-resistant steel. Classic wooden clothespins will hold up to 10 pounds per clip and are rust and moisture resistant.
Our best pick overall is the Minky Retractable Reel Washing Line, 30m of drying space. Probably the most popular washing line, it offers more than enough space for drying large loads of laundry. Impressively, the PVC coated lines and the UV stable casing can withstand elements for years of service.
Install Line-and-Pulley Clothesline Step 1: Choose a Location. Choose an area of your yard, laundry room, basement, etc., suitable for hanging clothes to dry someplace out of the way and where there are two anchor points from which to string the line. Step 2: Install Anchor Points. Step 3: String Up the Line.
The bowline thrives under tension. Make a bight 18 inches from the working end of the rope. Pass the working end through the bight from underneath. Maneuver the working end under the standing end and bring it back over and into the bight from the top.
How far apart the posts should be will depend, of course, on how much wash you need to dry at one time. The distance between posts should hardly exceed 40 to 50 feet, or the line will sag too much or get too heavy to prop up easily. The prop is a necessary addition to the line.
This retractable clothesline allows you to stretch out the line when you need it, and easily put it away when you don't. Made for outdoor use, it attaches to a wall with a special bracket (included), so you can remove it easily. The clothesline provides up to 49 feet of drying space when it's extended.
Make sure that the arms of the hoist remain square to each other. 1.1 Open hoist and lock into position. 1.2 Rotate the line cover anti-clockwise until it is off of the line tensioner on one end. Repeat for the other end, which needs replacing.
Measure the space between the two arms on the rotary clothesline where the line needs replacing. Cut a piece of clothesline to fit the space. Unscrew the line cover by turning in a counter-clockwise motion until it pulls free. Unwrap the existing line from around the base of the tensioner.
1 - Highest 2 - Medium 3 - Lowest Your clothesline is supplied with the ground socket in the lowest position 3. To adjust into higher positions, lift the support ring from the ground socket, lift the clothesline and twist into position 1 or 2. Each position will increase your clothesline height by 75mm.
Untie your sagging clothesline from the T-post, hook or eye by untying the original knot. Reposition your clothesline over the T-post, around the hook or through the eye. Pull the clotheslines as tight as you can, and retie the line at the connecting hardware. Untie your sagging clothesline from the T-post, hook or eye.
To use the washing line you attach it to a bracket on a wall, fence or post. When you want to take the washing line down you can just unclip it, leaving the bracket there for when you want to use the washing line again.
The 8 Best Rotary Washing Lines 2019 Brabantia Lift-O-Matic Rotary Airer Washing Line. Brabantia Topspinner Rotary Clothes Dryer. Brabantia Essential Rotary Washing Line Airer with Concrete Anchor Tube. Addis 40 m 4-Arm Rotary Airer. Marko Homewares Rotary Airer Clothes Dryer Outdoor Laundry Washing Line Ground socket.
Overview Of The 10 Best Rotary Clotheslines ?Rank Details Product Name ?1 View Details Brabantia Lift-O-Matic Rotary Airer Washing Line 2 View Details Leifheit Linomatic 50m Rotary Washing Line ?3 View Details Leifheit Linomatic 40m Rotary Washing Line 4 View Details Brabantia Essential Rotary Washing Line Airer
About Retractable Clotheslines A retractable clothesline is one where you pull the clothesline out of a housing when it is needed and attach it to a wall or post directly opposite. You can then hang your clothes to dry.
A washing line can be cost-effective and efficient in a large garden. Rotary dryers are great for small gardens. Like an umbrella, they can be put up only when needed the rest of the time taking up only a tiny amount of space or even put away and stored in a shed or porch.
The Brabantia Lift-O-Matic Rotary Airer Washing Line is the best heavy duty rotary washing line because of the excellent build quality and large drying capacity which provides over 50 metres of washing line.
Tightening is all about acheiving the right clamp force in a joint for it to work and function properly. Understanding of tightening technique is essential to choose the right tightening solution that will fulfill your specific needs.
Screw joints are the most common way of joining components due the advantages in simplicitiy of design and assembly, easy disassembly, productivity and in the end - cost. A screw is exposed to tensile load, to torsion and sometimes also to a shear load. The tensile load corresponds to the force that clamps the joint members togheter. But due to difficulties measuring clamp force the tightening torque is often used as they correspond to each other.
The tightening process has a major influence on the quality of the screw joint. The goal for the tightening process is to achieve enough clamp force to hold the joint together. A process which achieves the required clamp force with a minimum of scatter will give a high quality joint. The process is determined by: Torque application method; hand tightening, continuous drive and discontinuous drive. Tightening control method; torque, angle or gradient. Monitoring capabilities; A tool or system which can monitor the controlled and non-controlled parameters will give a higher confidence in the process and quality of the joint.
Hand tightening is often carried out using a torque wrench. The wrench is set to a predefined torque value and the operator will be notified when the correct torque is reached. Advantages with this solution is the ease of use and setup. Disadvantages are low productivity and limited tightening control capabilites even though there are advanced types of wrenches which can measure the angle thus allowing the use of angle control. Tools with continuous drive/direct driven tools can both be electric and pneumaticly driven. In general pneumatic tools due shut off via a mechanical clutch when the set torque is reached and electric tools can be equipped with sensors to control and monitor torque, angle and gradient. Controling and measuring more parameters will increase the confidence in the process. The discontinuous drive method use inertia which is released intermittently during tightening. This is what is found in impact and pulse tools. Advantages are fast tightening with low reaction force even a high torques. Disadvantages are that in general results scatter more than with a direct driven tool. Most common tools of this type does not have any type of sensors to but there are products available with sensors. In general the scatter in clamp force is lower for direct driven tools and when using gradient control and angle control rather than when using impact/pulse tools and torque control. Using more advanced control methods and monitoring methods allow downsizing of the fastener with weight reduction as result. However, in this case the choice of tool have to be set in the design phase of the product. Want to know even more about tightening technique or have any questions? Get in contact with your Atlas Copco representative for assistance.
A dryer is simply a large drum into which wet laundry is loaded. A motor with pulleys -- connected by a series of belts -- turns the drum. Air heated by a gas heater or electric heating element is blown through the drum to dry the laundry. The temperature and speed of the drum are controlled by a series of thermostats operated from a timer device on the control panel of the dryer.
As a safety device, a dryer usually has a door switch that activates the working parts. Unless the door is properly closed, the dryer won't work, regardless of the settings on the control panel. Many dryers are equipped with a reset button on the control panel. If the motor won't run, let the dryer cool for about ten minutes. Then push the reset button. If there are no problems with the motor, switches, or electrical system, this should restart the dryer. Caution: Before doing any work on the dryer, make sure it's unplugged. Disconnect the grounding wire. If it is a gas-fueled dryer, close the gas-supply valve to shut off the unit's gas supply.
Except for the power cord and the exhaust vent, the components that make up the dryer are contained in a sheet metal box. Each component acts independently of the others, but all are interrelated in some way. There are several different ways to disassemble the cabinet for tests and repairs, depending on the manufacturer and model of the machine. Basic disassembly procedures are simple.
Some knobs may be held to their shafts with setscrews. Unscrew the fasteners and pull the knobs straight out. To get at most parts, however, only remove the back panel. Don't disassemble the rest of the cabinet until you're sure you can't make the tests, replacements, or repairs from the back. If the light in the dryer burns out, remove it from the dryer. You may need to remove retaining screws and panels to access it. Replace the burned-out bulb with a new one of the same type and wattage; check the ends of the old bulb for this information. Then replace any retaining panels. Here's how:
Step 3: To remove the top panel, wedge a stiff-bladed putty knife under the rim of the top and pry the top off. The putty knife helps release several spring fasteners at the top of the cabinet sides and front.
Step 4: To remove the dryer's control panel, remove the screws that hold it to the cabinet top or front. These screws may be under a piece of metal or plastic trim; pry off or unscrew the trim. Most knobs are friction-fit; pull them straight out.
Caution: When testing or repairing the electrical parts of a gas dryer, remember that the dryer is hooked to a gas pipe. Turn off the shutoff valve on the supply pipe before disconnecting the gas supply line or moving the dryer and before doing any electrical work.
Besides drying clothes, dryers also remove lint. This fine, fuzzy material can cause trouble because it blocks dryer lint traps, clogs vents, and fills blowers. Lint can also gather around and in the tracks of the drum rollers, or in and under the pulleys and the drive belt. The result is poor clothes drying or -- sometimes -- no drying. To avoid lint problems, clean out the dryer's lint trap system every time you use the dryer.
To clean the lint screen, remove it from the unit. The screen may be located near or under the door sill, or in the top of the dryer near the control panel. It can usually be removed by pulling it up and out of its housing. Remove the accumulated lint to clear the screen; then replace the screen.
The exhaust vent also collects lint. Vent maintenance involves cleaning the lint from a screen in the dryer's vent exhaust collar and/or at the end of the exhaust vent where it sticks out through a basement window or through an exterior wall. To clean the screen, remove the clamp that holds the vent to the collar, or back out the screws that hold the vent to the collar, or pull the vent straight off an extended collar. Clean the screen thoroughly and replace it in the vent assembly.
To clean the vent itself, use a vent-cleaning brush (available at hardware stores) to pull out any lint deposits. Also check the vent run to make sure that the vent piping or tubing isn't loose at the joints, or -- in the case of flexible plastic venting -- isn't sagging between hanging brackets. Breaks or sags cause undue strain on the dryer's blower system, and can cause drying problems. If the vent pipe or tubing has become clogged with lint, remove the lint by pushing a garden hose or a drain-and-trap auger through the vent to a convenient joint. Disassemble the joint to remove the debris. With this procedure, it isn't necessary to disassemble the entire vent to find the blockage.
You can head off problems before they become too serious by providing routine maintenance for your dryer's door gasket, thermostat, timer, and other frequently used parts. Let's discuss how to service these important components in the next section.
Dryers receive a lot of use, so it's important to know how to provide routine service to the door gasket, door switch, thermostat, and other major parts. Use the guidelines below for tips on how to check and maintain these important features.
The door of the dryer is sealed with one or more gaskets to keep the hot air in the dryer from escaping and prevent the cool air in the laundry area from being sucked into the dryer. A deteriorated or damaged gasket greatly lowers the efficiency of the dryer. To check the gasket, hold a sheet of tissue paper near the rim of the door while the machine is running. If the door leaks, the paper will flutter. If the gasket or seal leaks, looks worn or warped, has chunks of material missing, or feels hard and nonresilient, it should be replaced with a new gasket of the same type.
If the dryer has a door latch, make sure the latch is free of dirt or lint and properly adjusted before you make any switch tests or replacements. Sometimes a misaligned latch prevents the door from being closed tightly, preventing the switch from being activated.
The switch on the dryer may be accessible from the outside door, or you may have to remove the top of the dryer to access it. The switch is a simple assembly, with two lead wires running to it. Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the switch leads and clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal. Press the switch closed with your finger. The VOM should read zero. If the needle jumps, the switch is faulty and should be replaced with a new one of the same type.
The switch is held to the dryer with setscrews; remove these screws and disconnect the leads to the switch. Install a new switch and connect the leads. Then position the switch and tighten the setscrews to hold it in place.
This switch, located on the control panel, is usually the push-button type. Start switches don't fail often, but it does happen. To check the start switch, remove the control panel and test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the switch terminals and clip one VOM probe to each terminal. Press the switch button. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working.
If the needle jumps to a high reading, the switch is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the switch with a new one of the same type, connecting the new switch the same way the old one was connected.
Thermostats, the dryer temperature control switches, are controlled by the temperature inside the dryer or by the heat of the motor. One or more thermostats on the panel can be adjusted to control the temperature in the dryer. Operating thermostats sometimes stick, causing control problems. These thermostats are usually positioned near the exhaust duct bulkhead or the fan housing of the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to get at them.
Before you make any checks, try tapping the housing of the thermostats lightly with the handle of a screwdriver. This may jar the contacts loose. Temperature control switches are located behind the dryer control panel, and the panel must be removed for switch testing or replacement. Here's how to test and replace the thermostat:
Step 1: To check the control panel thermostat, make sure power is off to the dryer. Test the thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: To check an operating thermostat, first make absolutely certain that the power to the dryer has been turned off and the dryer is cool. Then disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat. Test an operating thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; clip one probe to each terminal of the thermostat. Disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat so that the meter won't give a false reading. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.
Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here's how to test and replace a dryer timer:
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned.
Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type.
Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.
A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.
To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.
Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:
Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.
The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.
A heavy thumping sound coming from the dryer while it is running is a clear sign that your drum belt needs some repair. We'll discuss how to address this and other drum-related problems in the next section.
The drum of the dryer is usually turned by a motor-and-belt assembly. There are two very clear signs that the belt is malfunctioning: You can easily spin the drum by hand when the dryer is off, or you hear a heavy thumping sound coming from the drum when the dryer is running. Here's how to test and replace the drum belt:
Step 1: Locate the belt by removing the back or front service panel. Depending on the type of dryer you own, you may have to prop up the drum to keep it from sagging. Don't let the drum hang; the bolts that hold it in the cabinet could be damaged. Don't remove any more parts than necessary.
Step 2: Identify the belt. The old belt may be threaded around the idler pulley and motor drive shaft. Draw a diagram showing how the pulley is installed so you'll be able to replace it properly. If the old belt is worn or frayed, but not broken, leave it around the drum as a pattern for positioning the new belt; cut the old belt and remove it when the new belt is in position.
Step 3: Remove the old belt from the pulleys and stretch the replacement belt into place. The new belt must extend around the dryer drum and the pulleys. The trick is to align the belt on the drum with the pulleys -- the ribs on the new belt go against the drum.
Some older dryers have a V-belt pulley drum drive. With this system, two or three pulleys of different sizes set the speed of the drum. To change this type of belt, decrease the tension on the idler pulley and install the new belt in the V-grooves of all pulleys. Then place the idler pulley back into position.
With any dryer, make absolutely sure that you replace the old belt with a new one made especially for the dryer. Any difference in belts can change the speed of the drum and cause problems with other dryer components.
With the back service panel off, check the drum bearing around the dryer drum shaft. You may have to remove the dryer belt to reach it. If the bearing looks worn and dirty, or if it's loose, it should be replaced with a new bearing made for the dryer.
A screw in the center of the drum connects the shaft to the drum. Remove this assembly and then lift off the drum pulley. Support the drum to prevent it from sagging. The bearing fits around the drum shaft and is slip-fit. Pull off the old bearing and install the new one, securing it the same way the old one was held.
When reassembling the bearing unit, make sure the parts go back together the way they came apart. If the part is assembled with shims, the shims should be placed between the bearing and the support channels. Do not overtighten the screws holding the parts; overtightening could cause damage to the bearing. If the bearing has a lubrication wick, saturate it with auto transmission oil.
The front of the dryer's drum is usually supported by two rollers. These wheels are either metal with a rubber rim or pressed nylon. If the rollers squeak but appear to be in good condition, apply a few drops of 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to them. If the rollers are worn, you can replace them if the roller assembly is not riveted. To replace drum rollers:
Step 2: Remove the rollers by prying the spring clip off with a screwdriver. Under the clip are a washer, the rollers, and another washer. You might have to remove a small nut at the back of the shaft and remove the shaft itself to reach the rollers. Remove the rollers from the shaft and clean away built-up lint and dirt before installing the new roller. This dirt and lint buildup could cause the drum to turn slowly, which prevents proper drying and strains other dryer components.
Motor malfunctions usually call for service by a professional. There are three main causes of motor failure: lack of lubrication, a defective motor switch, or worn or frozen bearings. A humming sound can be related to a burned-out motor or a defective switch. Check these trouble spots before you call a professional service person or take the motor to a repair shop. Here's how to check a dryer motor:
Step 1: Remove the back access panel. Then reach behind the drum, motor pulley, and idler arm pulley. If these areas are clogged with dirt and lint, undue strain on the motor may be causing the humming noise. Worn or broken belts can also cause a humming noise. Check the belts for wear and damage. If the belts look all right, you may be able to stop the noise by spraying them with fan belt dressing, available at automotive and hardware stores and home centers.
Step 3: Force a little 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) around the ends of the motor shaft. This lubrication may stop the humming noise. If this doesn't solve the problem, remove the motor and take it to a professional service person.
The centrifugal switch on the dryer motor may be located on top of the motor. Humming, no motor power, and no heat can be caused by a faulty centrifugal switch. If the switch is externally mounted, check the terminals of the switch to make sure they are tight and not burned. If you spot trouble, remove the switch and take it to a professional service person for testing. A faulty switch will probably have to be replaced. Some centrifugal switches are located inside the motor housing; you won't be able to remove the switch in this case. Remove the entire motor and take it to a professional for repairs.
If you can't turn the pulley, or if the pulley is very hard to turn, the bearings in the motor may be worn. Remove the motor and take it to a professional service person for repairs, or replace the motor. Replacement may be cheaper than repair.
Some motors have overload protectors that turn off the motor when excess strain is put on it. Often, dryers are equipped with a reset button on the control panel. If the motor won't run, let the dryer cool for about ten minutes. Then press this reset button. If the dryer still doesn't operate, check for an overload protector on the motor.
Test the overload protector with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. If the meter reads zero, the protector is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the overload protector is faulty and should be replaced. Remove the protector by prying it off or unscrewing it from the motor housing. Replace it with a new one of the same size and type, connecting the new protector the same way the old one was connected.