white ash small gold washing plant

how to read your cannabis ash | green flower news

Although edibles are becoming more popular, smoking is still the preferred method of consumption in the cannabis community. With dispensaries galore and hundreds of strains of cannabis, theres a growing variety of flower to smoke. However, not every cultivation center or lab facility is made the same. So, how can you gauge the quality of the cannabis you bought? You can go by the reputation of the company or a testing labels results, but theres a simpler way to judge the quality of your flower: learn how to read your ash.

Everyone wants clean cannabis, and analyzing the quality of your cannabis ash is one way to weed out the good buds from the bad ones. If youve ever had a headache, irritated lungs, or sore throat after smoking cannabis, there are likely leftover contaminants in your flower. With this simple guide on how to read your cannabis ash, well give you the adequate knowledge to inspect your smoldering joint.

Without the proper treatment in the growing process of marijuana, there may be leftover chemicals still present in the plant once its packaged. And, these chemicals not the cannabis may be the reason your throat hurts when you smoke a joint. Before we jump into the simple steps of how to read your cannabis ash, lets take a look at two factors that may affect the cleanliness of cannabis: flushing and curing.

Flushing: The process of flushing is when you give the cannabis plants plain water and stop feeding them nutrients. Flushing is a critical step thats typically performed two weeks before harvest, washing away unwanted nutrients or potentially harmful chemicals.

Flushing is a common step in the cultivation process, which is practiced by a majority of cannabis growers. The procedure helps in cleansing the cannabis or medical marijuana, but curing may play a more significant factor overall.

Harvested cannabis doesnt decompose instantly, as it continues to go through metabolic changes. Curing helps control moisture content during this critical period to influence the metabolic process, reducing undesirable components to keep the cannabis clean when done efficiently. So, flushing may play a role in the purity of your cannabis, but curing affects the smoke quality without question.

The only way to test the cleanliness of your flower with the method of reading your cannabis ash is to light up a joint. When the ash exposes itself, take a close look at the color. If you notice that the ash is black or dark gray, thats indicative of unwanted substances and mineral content in the cannabis youre smoking. However, if your weed ash is light gray or almost as white as the rolling paper, the cannabis is considerably clean.

If you do find dark grey to burned black ash, theres a good chance the cannabis flower was not properly flushed and/or cured well. With leftover undesirable sugars and minerals due to inefficient curing, you will experience a throat-burning feeling to match the dark-colored ash. Having said that, the color of your cannabis ash shouldnt be the only detail you observe if you enjoy smoking weed.

Another factor to take into consideration when observing your cannabis ash is the texture. Clean cannabis ash is light, delicate, and fluffy. However, if there happens to be any leftover fertilizer, pesticides, or fungicides, the ash is going to be grainy and hard. Additionally, theres a simple test you can perform to further analyze the ash.

Tap the lit joint lightly, and if the ash separates easily, the purity of your cannabis hasnt been compromised by unwanted leftovers. If the ash is crusty and falling apart all by itself, there are residuals present.

The more the ash resembles a fine powder, the better. Take a few puffs of the joint so you can produce enough ash to analyze. Youll also want to take note of the ash texture at different lengths of the joint for even more accuracy in your observation.

Reading your cannabis ash should be a method to double-check the cleanliness of your cannabis. The goal is to purchase quality cannabis with the terpene and cannabinoid content you like from trusted, responsible participants in the cannabis industry not the black market. Therefore, you should ensure the flower you buy has gone through verified lab testing. And the only way to know if its been tested properly is if the cannabis company provides results for their products.

Cannabis consumers shouldnt be afraid to ask for test results and seek out cannabis shops that screen their vendors. If the company cant provide their test results or prefer not to disclose them, youll want to steer clear of that cannabis producer. Think of the cannabis white ash test as a safety net, with proper research of brands as the first line of defense.

Reading your cannabis ash is one way you can check the condition of your cannabis. However, there are a couple of other observations you can make if youre not satisfied with just observing ash. Although these review methods may not be as easy, it doesnt hurt to give them a try. Here are other ways to check the quality of your cannabis:

Visual Review: Even though different marijuana strains vary in color and consistency, you can still scan the flower for a particular red flag: mold. Its best to err on the side of caution and not cut off the mold and continue consuming the flower. Not to mention, if the cannabis is yellow or brown, its most likely a low-grade product.

Aroma Check: Cannabis has a distinct, fresh scent which you can learn to identify through experience if its been harvested, dried, and cured properly. Its a bad sign if your cannabis smells like hay or grass.

Learning how to read your cannabis ash is an easy way to start upgrading your knowledge about exactly what goes into making quality cannabis. By enrolling in the comprehensive Cannabis Cultivation certificate program, youll dive deep into what it takes to grow exceptional commercial cannabis. The 100% online course was developed by cannabis horticulture experts and will help you elevate your home growing skills while preparing you for a career in commercial cannabis cultivation.

how to get rid of powdery mildew on plants

When it comes to diseases that may befall your plants, powdery mildew tops the list as one of the most common culprits. While almost no type of plant is immuneunless they're hybrids bred specifically resistancecertain species are more susceptible than others. Plants that are notably susceptible include lilacs, flowering crab apple trees, phlox, red bee balm plants, roses, squash, cucumbers, and more.

Powdery mildew fungi can be found anywhere, but it thrives particularly well in climates where there are extended periods of warm temperatures paired with dry conditions. The fungi spores reside in plant buds. They can also overwinter in plant debris and become transported to your plants viawind, insects, and splashing water.

As the name implies, powdery mildew presents as dusty splotches of white or gray powder on the leaves and stems of infected plants. Splotches on the surface of leaves are often the most obvious sign of powdery mildew, but it actually typically starts on the undersides of the leaves, often also appearing on the stems, flower buds, and even the fruit of a plant.

Although powdery mildew can impact a variety of different kinds of plants, each fungal infection is "host-specific," meaning the breed of fungi infecting that plant is specific to that varietal. Translation: The powdery mildew on your lilacs will not spread to the other varieties of plants in your garden.

The good news: Although powdery mildew is an unattractive nuisance, it's rarely fatal to your plants. That being said, it does stress the plant, and severe or repetitive infections can weaken the plant, making it more prone to other diseases and insect damage.

Additionally, powdery mildew can leech important nutrients from the plant, causing its leaves to wither and yellow. If enough of the leaf surface becomes covered with powdery mildew, photosynthesis is impaired, and the infected leaves will fall from the plant prematurely. This can be an even bigger issue for edible plants, like fruits or vegetables, as insufficient photosynthesis can diminish the number of sugars produced, ultimately affecting flavor.

While removing and destroying all infected plants is the ideal solution, it's not very practical. Understandably, few gardeners are willing to sacrifice their peonies or squash every time there is a powdery mildew outbreak. Luckily, there are less drastic measures you can take to rid your garden of these pesky fungi.

To start, use plant clippers to remove or cut back the portions of your plants that have visible powdery mildew on them. If you notice it on a few leaves, remove them from the plant and do not compost them (which can allow the spores to spread). Wash your hands and clean your clippers with alcohol wipes after finishing to further prevent spread.

There are many fungicides availablelook for one containing potassium bicarbonate, neem oil, sulfur, or copper. There are also two home remediesone made from baking soda (see below) and one made from milkthat can help to prevent powdery mildew before it starts. For continuous protection, reapply fungicides every seven to 14 days and be sure to follow the label instructions for both application and waiting period before harvest. While fungicides won't cure powdery mildew on leaves, it can help stem the spread of the fungi to other leaves or plants.

Now that you know your plants are susceptible to powdery mildew, you'll need to take a few steps to prevent its spread or reoccurrence. First, work to improve the air circulation in your garden by thinning and pruning it until each plant appears to have "room to breathe." This can help prevent the spread and growth of any fungi already present among your plants. Additionally, avoid fertilizing the affected plants until you think you have your powdery mildew outbreak under controlthe spores favor young, succulent growth, so fertilizing while an infection is still present can actually increase the spread. Lastly, try to avoid watering plants from above (with the exception of rain, of course), as dampening the leaves can encourage more mildew growth.

Baking soda alone isn't effective in controlling powdery mildew, but when combined with liquid, non-detergent soap and water, it works well as a preventative. It is less effective as a cure once the fungus has taken hold. If you know a plant is affected by powdery mildew year after year, as is the case with manymonarda, phlox, and lilacs, then spraying early in the season, as well as weekly applications (and reapplying after rain), may prevent mildew that year. In the first signs of infection on a plant, remove the leaves with powdery mildew, if there aren't too many, and spray the rest of the plant. Spray any susceptible plants located nearby, too.

Pour the mix into a sprayer, and evenly coat all areas of the plant, including the underside of leaves and stems. The soap helps the mix spread and cling to the leaf surface. Discard the any unused mixture; it loses effectiveness over time.

While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and do not apply it in full sun. Spray it on a small area first to test the plants response before spraying the entire plant.

The best defense against powdery mildew is to maintain a plant environment that does not encourage mildew growth. That's not always achievable, though, so you can also focus on a few other rules of thumb. First, when planting your garden, choose healthy plants and work to keep them that way. Stressed plants (from drought, overwatering, or other poor growing conditions) are an invitation to disease. Next, try to find a powdery mildew-resistant cultivarthis is especially important if you garden in an area that is known to be susceptible to an annual attack of powdery mildew. Lastly, avoid planting susceptible plant varieties in the shade where they may remain damp and offer the spores an ideal place to grow.

ash tree - planting, pruning, and advice on caring for it

The ash tree wont require any care, and doesnt also need any pruning. If you feel your soil is very poor, you can help it with a very small dose of fertilizer (phosphorus and potassium) during the first few months. The growth phase of this tree is in spring (before the blooming). The blooming lasts from March to May.

At the beginning of spring, remember to remove undesirable buds from the trunk. When you observe that a branch is growing well, its recommended to pinch or snip off the tip of the branch to stop its growth.

red ash or Fraxinus pennsylvanica that grows in open spaces, white ash or Fraxinus americana that, conversely, grows best in forests, Fraxinus angustifolia has narrow leaves, and, last but not least, black ash (very famous in Canada) which grows very well in cold marshes, along riversides or in oft-swamped forests.

Hello Glenda! These can grow quite tall, so an absolute minimum of 20 feet (6-7 meters) should be kept. Ideally, having 30 feet (10 m) between trunk and the closest wall would be best. That way, the tree can grow at ease and develop very nicely, without causing any problems whatsoever to the house and its foundations.

thanks for the informative article! An Ash tree has started growing close to my rental house and I was going to move it to a new area at the end of winter, however, I kind of want to keep it forever if possible? Could it live in a pot for a year? Or is this absurd?

Seedlings and saplings under two feet tall can stay for a year in pots about 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) across. Trees two to four feet tall will do great in a pot one to one and a half feet tall (30 to 45 cm). Saplings four to 7 feet tall can survive for a year in a pot at least two feet across (60 cm). Depth of the pot should match the size across.

the prompt delivery of the limestone drum screen machine in china - new trommel screen shipment - news - zhengzhou sinolion machinery co., ltd

Limestone roller screen is mainly used for grading the particle size of materials, and is widely used in electric power, mining, metallurgy, building materials:, chemical industry and other production industries. It is often used for the classification of refractory materials, coal, chemical fertilizer, sand yard stones, as well as the screening of sticky and wet materials such as coal, coke, white ash and placer gold ore, so that the product structure is more uniform to meet the production needs.

ZhengzhouSinolionMachinery Co., Ltd.guarantees the prompt delivery of the limestone drum screen machinelast week a customer fromGhana namedSteven came toourcompany to conduct the final test machine for the limestone rollerscreen machine, after the test he was very satisfied with our limestone roller sieve, both sides are happy with this cooperation.

Limestone roller screen is mainly used for grading the particle size of materials, and is widely used in electric power, mining, metallurgy, building materials:, chemical industry and other production industries. It is often used for the classification of refractory materials, coal, chemical fertilizer, sand yard stones, as well as the screening of sticky and wet materials such as coal, coke, white ash and placer gold ore, so that the product structure is more uniform to meet the production needs.

what is the white mold that attacks euonymus bushes? | home guides | sf gate

Euonymus encompasses several species of evergreen or deciduous vines or shrubs within the genus of the same name. A range of species and cultivars offer a variety of sizes and leaf characteristics; many are used as hedges or screens. Relatively few pests or diseases plague euonymus, but of these potential problems powdery mildew is often the most serious and difficult to control.

Euonymus encompasses several species of evergreen or deciduous vines or shrubs within the genus of the same name. A range of species and cultivars offer a variety of sizes and leaf characteristics; many are used as hedges or screens. Relatively few pests or diseases plague euonymus, but of these potential problems powdery mildew is often the most serious and difficult to control.

Powdery mildew first appears as small patches of powdery white growth on the bottom of leaves and on the plant stem. The powdery white patches may eventually cover entire leaves and tiny, dark dots may appear late in the growing season. Leaves on heavily-infected plants may yellow slightly and drop prematurely. New growth may suffer distortion or curling as it appears. A severe powdery mildew problem can affect plant growth, especially if it appears in winter or early spring.

Powdery mildew on euonymus is caused by the fungus Ioidium euonymi-japonici, which requires living host tissue to grow. It overwinters in buds or on the bark of branches and stems. Spores spread by wind. Powdery mildew prefers temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and shady conditions to develop and spread; it may die when leaf temperatures rise above 95 degrees. Variegated euonymus varieties offer better resistance to powdery mildew than nonvariegated varieties.

Euonymus planted in shade are more vulnerable to powdery mildew infection, so situating plants in sunny sites or thinning out the overhanging canopy of shade trees or adjacent vegetation limits the pathogen. Providing plants with ample spacing and pruning out dense growth improves circulation around the leaves. Where the disease is present, pruning heavily-infected parts, gathering fallen leaves and destroying the debris curbs its impact.

Fungicides are most appropriate or warranted where powdery mildew has proven problematic in previous years, the euonymus is in a highly conspicuous area of the landscape or the disease appears early in the growing season rather than in fall when the plant has already managed to store up ample energy for the next growing season. Various fungicides like those that contain myclobutanil, sulfur, propiconazole or thiophanate-methyl offer adequate control of powdery mildew if properly-applied before or as soon as possible after the disease is noticed. Horticultural or plant-based oils offer control options when the disease is more advanced. Repeat applications are typically necessary until environmental conditions no longer favor the pathogen.

whiteflies: how to identify and get rid of whiteflies | the old farmer's almanac

Whiteflies can be as small as 1/12 of an inch, are somewhat triangular in shape,and are often found in clusters on the undersides of leaves.They are active during the day and will scatter when disturbed, so they can be easier to spot than somenocturnal insect pests.

There are hundreds of species of whiteflies, but most affect only a small number of host plants. However, there are a few whitefly species that affect a wider range of plants, which make them the most problematic in horticulture. These whitefly species include the greenhouse whitefly, bandedwinged whitefly, giant whitefly,andsilverleaf whitefly, among others. Silverleaf whiteflies,which are slightly smaller and more yellow than other whiteflies, are especially common in the southern UnitedStates.

In USDA Zone 7 and colder, whiteflies are not able to survive winter outdoors, so their presencetends to be limited toindoor plants orgreenhouse environments. However, if outdoors plants are bought from an infested greenhouse, whiteflies may become a seasonal outdoor garden pest. (Always inspectplants before bringing themhome!)

Whiteflies can be found on a wide variety of plants, from ornamental flowerstowarm-weather vegetables, including tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, and okra. Some species may attacksweet potatoes, plants from the cabbage family, and citrus trees. Indoors, they will feed on most common houseplants, especially those with soft, smoothleaves.

Like aphids, whiteflies use their piercing mouthparts to suckupplant juices and, in turn, produce a sticky substance known as honeydew. Honeydew left on its own can cause fungal diseases such as sooty moldto form onleaves.

Withheavy whitefly feeding, plants will quickly becomeextremely weak and may be unable to carry out photosynthesis. Leaves will wilt, turn pale or yellow, growth will be stunted, and eventually leaves may shrivel and drop off theplant.

Check the undersides of leavesespeciallyaround the veinsfor white insects, even if they arent immediately visible, and feel leaf surfaces for sticky honeydew. If the whiteflies are feeding, theyll suddenly all fly off the leaves in a swarm, so its veryobvious.

You may alsofind eggslaid on the undersides of leaves. This is the beginning of a new generation! When the eggs hatch, the larvae will look like teeny white ovals without legs; they dont move but they immediately start sucking the plant juice.This is why gardeners often miss whiteflies until its too late.Adult females can produce up to 400 eggs, whichhatch inabout one week to a month after laying. They are usually laid in a circular pattern. Eggs are pale yellow when newly laid and brown when about tohatch.

To control whiteflies, thereare various solutions and traps that you can use. The biggest tip is: start early!In the mornings and evenings, as you wander the garden or tend to your houseplants,check theback of the leaves for eggs or notice when little bugs fly away as you approach yourplants.

Here in Britain we get a very small red spider that scurries about in the garden in the sun. It's only about 1mm in size. I would expect you have them in America. If you carefully collect a couple and put them on your plant they'll take out the larva stage. (Don't confuse them with red spider mite which are bigger and not properly red. The spider will eat those too though)

I've used a Butter Yellow coloured LED, inside a Maconara jar covered with Neem Oil with excellent success! Of course, this requires you to go out 3 times a night to shake the plants, but once you do the whitefly can't see anything except its favourite colour, Yellow and flies into it. Two nights in a row I've had to recover the jar with neem oil after being coated with whitefly. Washed them all down the drain using dishwashing liquid, then recoated the jar! For the first few nights, I also sprayed with Neem oil and a spray unit with an upturned spray head to get from top to bottom of the plants under side each leaf. At last, I feel like it's improving and not getting worse. There was a time where visitor disturbing the Tom plants would be covered in a snow of furry of whitefly.

The only thing that works is a professional exterminator heat treatment. The process take a all day they bring in heaters and treat our entire home or apartment for I think 4-6 hours at 130 or so degrees. Bed bugs travel on your stuff and your clothes and shoes. Wherever you lay your purse the risk of touching off a bed bug infestation in that place, that includes your friends, family, work place. They hide in cracks and crevices, even in electrical outlets. So just spraying where you see them wont work and it wouldnt kill the larvae So you wont break the cycle. The heat is the only thing that works, I know Ive done it, It is necessary and expensive, ask the company you choose how to do the same treatment to our car. Because the home can be infestation again if you bring it back in from your car.

I don't know exactly what's happening but when I came home a couple days ago I think there were bed bugs in my room and I've been trying to find something that will get rid of them. Nobody seems to have any answers so I went to the store and picked up some hot shot bed bug killer. It's supposed to kill fleas bed bugs their eggs everything you know. For some reason they're in my car they're in my room and I feel like they're crawling all over my body. I am freaking out cuz it constantly feels like there's something crawling on me so I sprayed this Hotshot all over in my car and now I have white flies everywhere and they're making me get off stuffy and sneezing and they're getting in my eyes I don't know how to get rid of them I don't understand what is going on here?. Could somebody please help me I'm going crazy?! Mindy

The white flies are going to town on my new hollyhock plants. This is the first year from seed so they are a huge green plant right now, hope next year for flowers. Does anyone know , can the flies get on humans? After i spray my garden i feel itchy just from seeing them!

In the winter I get white flies on my indoor basil and rosemary. This year I'm seeing the worst infestation I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with on my squashes (zucchini, pumpkin and acorn squash) outside. With my houseplants I found that spraying my plants with a laundry detergent and water mixture regularly was helpful, but I'm completely overwhelmed by the thought of trying to save my giant squash plants with my tiny spray bottle of soapy water.

My crepe myrtles are attacked every yr by whitefly. This is the worst year yet. Ive used the natural soap, olive oil, water solution; now Im trying the neem oil solution. The flies are not bothering any other plants or veggies. I am losing this battle in addition to my 3 crepe myrtles.

Hi, we just bought a house and have just realized that the large hibiscus plant, lemon tree, and camellia plants are covered in white flies and have white leaves that look like paint was splattered on them and even have what looks like spider webs around the base. Is there hope to get rid of these or do these plants need to be ripped out before they infect the rest of the garden? Thank you!

I have had the same problem.I bought the sticky yellow cards from my hardware store, they have caught 100's of them. I am finding that by hitting the plants gently each morning they fly off, and go to the yellow cards, but this is going to be ongoing for awhile, so I intend to use the soapy spray as well. I wish you luck.

I bought a Christmas cactus a month ago and it was doing great, and I only noticed now that the soil appears to be infested with whiteflies. They dont seem to be on the foliage, only the soil. Every treatment Ive seen is for getting rid of them on the leaveshow do I get rid of them in the soil??

White flies are actually a bright white in color and are not in the dirt. Fungus gnats are what you are dealing with. They have a 6 day life cycle and eggs are in the dirt. They are hard to get rid of. Overwatering is the main culprit. Keep soil drier. Christmas Cactus' like it better that way, anyway. The yellow sticky cards that you can buy work really well for indoor infestations. If all else fails, I had to take a plant out of the dirt, rinse it's roots and put it in new dirt once. The old dirt should be pitched or you can bake it in your oven to kill any eggs, etc.

We had a huge daphne bush by our front porch (New England) that has had problems, so we were considering removing it. This year, however, it leafed out splendidly and we were considering a reprieve when I discovered it absolutely covered by whiteflies. My husband is in the process of digging it out and burning it. The trunk is massive. I know whiteflies dont overwinter here, but how do they come back and what should I do to prevent future infestations? It was right under a hummingbird feeder and we live on a pond with lots of dragonflies, but they obviously didnt do their job. Can I treat the soil? I have climbing hydrangeas nearby and plan to replace the daphne with a slow-growing binomial cypress.

The whiteflies likely rode in on another plant, perhaps an annual or other new addition to the garden this summer. As you noted, they cant overwinter in the northern US, so they shouldnt be back unless theyre reintroduced. The best preventative technique is to thoroughlyinspect any new plantsthat you have added or will add to the garden. If you find that only a few leaves are infested, remove those leaves. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils (neem oil, for example) can help to reduce populations, but they will require multiple treatments and alone wont be strong enough to completely get rid of an infestation. There are also systemic insecticides, but these are not recommended because they will also kill pollinators and beneficial insects (like ladybugs, which actually prey uponwhiteflies).

I found the following receipe home made organic is effective . 25 gms of each. ginger. hot green chilles and white garlic mix along with 3 drops of dish wash detergent. mix the above an grind well in small omestic mixer grinder with 50 ml of good water. collect the paste in a good bowl. mix with 200 ml of water strain& get clear liquid dilute to 500 ml with water. use it for spraying to the affected plant. very effective if sprayed in the evenings 2 successive evenings then once in every week. good. Wear goggles while spraying the liquid.

White flies have taken over my deck and back yard. I have a large area of Passion flowers and 2 crepe myrtles. In the late afternoon they begin to come out from under my deck (approx 1200 sq ft area) it appears and off the crepe myrtles. I cant barely grill theyre so bad, thousands it seems. Have a big party coming up in 2 weeks! What can I do?

I have a tall, potted ficus tree that has been infested with whitefly for, at least 3 years. I tried the oil/dishsoap/water (palmolive or dawn or murphys) concoction which did very little. I also tried worm castings, which were useless. Did not want to use neem because of the mess, cost and marginal success. I had decided to throw out the tree, but in a last minute ditch effort (in a fit of aggravation), I grabbed my 16 oz spray bottle, added a little water, then poured in a huge amount (did not measure) of Seventh Generation lavender flower and mint scent dish soap, then filled up the rest with water (no oil). After shaking the mixture, I tipped the pot over so the tree was lying flat on the terrace, then spayed all over taking care not to get it in the soil. I rolled the pot over to spray on all sides thoroughly. After using up most of the soapy mixture, I let it sit for a while. I then put an attachment on my garden hose and power sprayed the soap off. I left a little of the soap residue on the leaves from the puddle of suds. To be safe, I repeated this once more a week or two later and, now, surprisingly (!), new leaves are popping out everywhere and no whitefly. If your plant is in the ground, I would suggest purchasing some cheap box store plastic painter cloths and cover the ground around the tree/schrubs and scrunch up newspaper around the base/trunk since there will be a lot of suds (newspaper can also sop up the suds puddle). As a bonus, it also got rid of the mealy and sooty mildew. I have no idea what role the dish soap scent played. So far so good.

With a small flock of 30 hatch-lings around 4 weeks old, the coop and run is right next to the garden. All the plants that tend to attract these white flies are on the other side of the garden mesh fencing. The plants thrive with the chicken poo and the bugs are eaten when they fly around in the coop area. Sure this works out in the country, but what about the city folks? Instead of chickens, look for those bug zappers like the tennis rackets that run on 3VDC. Place next to the plants. Behind it, put up a bright yellow painted board. Unplug just before it rains.

I have small flies with a golden green back. These are not white flies. I have tried spraying with the water soaked combination and also added some peppermint essential oils but they are still on my vegetables. I am afraid they will lay Lorber oh my vegetables any ideas on how I can get rid of them

Unfortunately, were not able to give you the best controls without knowing the exact pest. Some flies are just nuisance flies that dont harm the plants (some might feed on decaying plant matter, such as in soil or mulch); others, such as the metallic green/gold long-legged fly, are beneficials that hover around plants because they are seeking other insects as prey (for the long-legged fly, that includes aphids, gnats, mites, etc.). Still others are actual pests of the plant. Although yellow sticky traps are more for monitoring pest populations, if you have a small crop, you might try hanging a few around your plants to see if they trap these pests (if they are attracted to yellow). This may also, however, trap beneficials. To deter flies in general, it may help to clear out any decaying plant debris, old mulch, and weeds around your plants. Hope thishelps!

what trees like wet soil? (hint: there are 13) | local trees

Planting trees can often be an overwhelming task. After all, there are many factors to consider, including the type of soil you plan to plant those trees into. You may be living in an area that has a lot of wet soil. Perhaps the ground holds water more and is susceptible to flooding in the winter months. Can you still plant trees successfully? The answer is yes! If you are hoping to find out what trees like wet soil, then below is a list of options you might want to consider.

A willow tree is suitable for most grounds and areas, and so it is an excellent choice if you are looking to plant a tree that has predominantly wet soil. They perform well in most sites, but they dont have solid limbs or stems, so they may bend or even break during storms or bad weather. There are many different types of a willow trees that you could consider, including the weeping willow, the gold and white willow tree. You can grow a willow tree from cuttings, but one of the most common and most effective ways is to develop from a bare root tree at least one year old to get the best results.

Sweetbay magnolia trees are a striking tree and prove to be very popular. They are a tree that works well when planted in wet soil. A Sweetbay magnolia tree has unique white or creamy coloured spring and summer flowers. Those flowers have a sweet, citrus fragrance. The leaves show movement in the breeze to flash a silver-tone under the leaves, making them look beautiful. Sweetbay magnolia trees can grow up to 50 feet high. If you are looking for a more compact tree, especially in an urban area, then the sweet magnolia could be a good choice. They rarely grow higher than 30 feet in cooler regions, so it can be an excellent option to consider.

The Red Maple tree gets its name because of the foliage that is a bright and attractive red colour. It often is seen as a huge focal point when it is spring and summertime. The red theme continues throughout the seasons, with a robust autumnal glow to red berries forming in the winter months. Red maple trees vary in size; they can grow between 40 and 70 feet tall and spread anywhere up to 50 feet wide. They are grand and can acclimatize very well when planted in wet soil. However, before considering planting, be mindful that Red Maple trees have powerful roots that can be large and thick in size. They can even grow near or above the surface area.

The river birch is a famous tree that you will commonly find along river banks and extremely wet parts of the garden. Hence why this tree likes wet soil. It has an attractive bark that looks exceptional in the winter months. The river birch is also quite heat tolerant, making this an excellent choice for wet areas that can still get quite hot on the surface area. Planting this tree in wet areas of your garden or on a bank of water can be a great choice. They grow exceptionally well and can provide excellent shade as they all brand out and grow wide.

Pin Oak trees can also be known as mighty oak trees. They are known to be speedy growing and to be able to command the land in which they are planted in. They are also known to be a shade tree which can make them an excellent choice for the area you are looking to plant your tree. In the summer months, the Pin Oak trees have a darker shade of green leaves that turn a dark red colour in the autumn months. They also stick around for the winter months, which is unusual. The stunning leaves hang from thick and dense branches.

An Atlantic White cedar tree may be known to you by some other names, including the Post Cedar or Swamp Cedar. Given one name includes the word swamp, there is no reason to deny that this tree enjoys a wet soil environment. The Atlantic white cedar is an impressive evergreen tree that can reach heights of up to 115 feet. This wet soil tree works extremely well when it comes to wet soil conditions and can last in some of the most extreme areas. Growing Atlantic white cedar is not a difficult tree for a wet soil environment, and once the tree does start to establish, it requires little to no maintenance. You are making it a great choice for a novice. Finding a young Atlantic white cedar tree to plant might be very difficult, so you may need to seek out specific nurseries to find the right option for you.

The Bald Cypress is a unique tree which means there is no mistaking its identity. They are seen as very tall conifers with a large trunk base. If you are considering planting a bald cypress tree, it is worth noting that these are also good in wet soil, although they can thrive in other conditions. They can grow very tall, as much as 120 feet. You also need a big space to allow these trees to grow as well as they can. These trees are also very important for wildlife, so they can be an excellent addition to your area.

You will find that the Black Ash tree grows in wooded areas that typically have wetlands and swamps. Which means they thrive in wet soil environments. However, the trees grow slowly, but on the opposite end of the scale, they develop into tall trees that are slimline with attractive feathered leaves in time. When the tree is young, there is a smooth bark, but the bark turns dark grey or even brown as the years go on. It can grow up to 70 feet tall but remains slim. The branches grow upward, and by doing so, they form a slightly rounded tree head. The wood of the black ash is heavy and durable.

The green ash tree is an attractive shady tree. Green ash trees can grow up to 70 feet tall and thrive in a wet soil environment. When planting a green ash tree, you will need to ensure enough space for it to thrive. One thing to note about the green ash is that it develops seedlings, which can be very invasive or not dealt with properly. So it is important to ensure that you remove the seedlings so that they dont cause you too many problems in the future.

Pumpkin ash trees are quite rare and also very difficult to look after. But you cant have a list of trees that work well in wet soil without mentioning the pumpkin ash. The pumpkin ash tree is very large and reaches heights of 90 feet. However, they can be smaller in some places if looked after in a specific way to ensure they dont grow too much. The foliage you will see on a Pumpkin Ash tree is small and concise. You will see that the leaves are darker green on the outside. The tree also has flowers that form in the spring. They are a green tone of purple and look very attractive. After a while, the flowers fade and the fruit grows in its place.

Planetrees, or what is also known as London Planetrees, are natural hybrids of treeshaving developed over the years in European environments. They thrive in wet soil, making them a choice. The trees themselves can grow up to 100 feet tall and can reach wides of around 80 feet, making them quite the big entity in the tree world. While some say that the planetree can only grow in direct sunlight, they can thrive with some partial shade.

Growing fruit trees might not be on the agenda when it comes to wet soil. But actually, a pear tree can thrive in those conditions. It can be a very rewarding experience for growing fruit trees, and pear trees are no different. A full-sized pear tree can grow up to 40 feet tall. A pear tree does require full and direct sunlight, so be mindful of the position that you choose to plant your tree.

The Nuttall oak is one of those trees that is quite rare. It is part of the red oak family. They do require very minimal effort and upkeep and can thrive in a wet soil environment. Like many oak leaves, the Nuttall oak has what is described as lobed leaves. You can identify this particular oak tree by its different-looking acorn that makes it different from the rest of the oak family. They can grow up to 80 feet tall, and they can be up to 50 feet wide.

If you are looking to plant a tree in wet soil, one of the above mentioned should be more suitable. Lets hope this has been useful to you and for you to make the right choice of tree for the area you want to plant it.